Project Big Red

IDIoit

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these hose are company specific if i recall, if you look in the summit mag, you will see that there are different hose for different fitting manufacturer.
id hate to say it, but you shot yourself in the foot with this one Mike :eek:

i always buy "kits" when doing AN stuff.
 

laserjock

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That may be but it shouldn't be. -10 is supposed to be a specification. It should be 5/8" ID (-10 or 10/16"). Problem is the hose is labeled -10 but says on the tag 1/2" ID on the tag. It's even the good ptfe stuff. It should work with -8 fittings but the seller mis-labeled it. It's easy to see its too small. It slid into the fitting way too easy. It is even a freaking hose company. I don't think they take returns so negative feedback it will be.

So did I shoot myself in the foot? Ultimately yes but I don't need that kind of help. I cause myself enough problems.
 

laserjock

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Well, when you've done as much plumbing and crap as I have in my day job... I've plumbed for about every kind of fluid or gas you can imagine. I'm frustrated that I don't have my usual resources for working in this domain but my stock pile keeps getting larger. I'm getting to the point of just pulling crap off the shelf. It's a long and expensive ordeal. But I digress. I hate it when people don't label stuff right because they don't understand what it is they are dealing with. It's like people who put Teflon tape on regulators and compression fittings. The times I have taken regulators off with Teflon tape on the threads and just lost it on the morons that have advanced degrees but don't understand that a cga 580 (argon/nitrogen/helium) nipple does not seal with the threads like a pipe thread just drives me nuts.

Sorry for the core dump. Just having trouble suffering stupid people. Again, it's one thing for the average Joe to not understand, but when you buy hose from a XXXXXX hose company, you expect a little more.
 

laserjock

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Catch can is done.

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3" stainless 1" pipe nipple down the center with end trimmed mostly flush. The hose barb on the outside is 1 hose to 3/4 npt. It's zinc plated steel. I bored the ID out to about 7/8". It will be soaked continuously in oil vapor so I'm not too worried about rusting.

Tossed some stainless steel pot scrubber in there. Stretched it out so its not packed tight.

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If you look down the outlet you can see the side of the inlet tube so worst case it has to make at least a 90.

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And assembled.

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And the CDr valve primed and painted.

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That's it for tonight.
 

laserjock

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Well, problem solved... Sorta.

Hose on the left is new -10 hose. Hose on the right is what I had. Amazing huh?

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New hose fits dandy.

Got the oil drain connected up.

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Good you look at the inlet to the valley pan, you'll notice it pulled out a touch. Shouldn't be an issue but I may lengthen the hose a 1/4". It is tough gauging this because the hose section is so short.

I started to make the water connections and had a moment of realization.

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If you look at the water fittings, there is no way I'll get 90's in there. There's not enough room against the intake hat and the fitting on top is most likely going to be too tall.

So back up and punt it is. It will have to be banjo fittings which I hate but there's really no other option. I don't know if I should do banjo to AN $$ or just banjo to hose barb. 2 steps forward, 1 step back. I also really need to adjust one of my turbo mount brackets I think. Once I get my nuts tomorrow, I'll know for sure.

[emoji20]
 

laserjock

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I strongly considered remote mount way back when. If it were easy everyone would do it right? I had to be different. [emoji849]
 

IDIoit

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what about a NPT male to a 90 with NPT female? then a straight npt to AN?
 

laserjock

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Turbo is not npt on the water lines. 18 mm metric straight thread. I thought about that but I haven't seen that fitting.
 
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