Nice work on the electroplating. Looks sharp. 
Project Big Red
- Thread starter laserjock
- Start date
So today's efforts. Started off by clearancing the block back for the oil line as I mentioned above. No picture but it's nice and smooth now. All good and snug.
I think I have found an adapter to let me put the oil pressure senders up on the turbo ala banks. 4 AN adapter with double holes tapped 1/8 npt. For the price we will see if it solves the problem. Think I'm going to put a similar dodad in the Schrader valve port for a fuel pressure gauge.
I've been fine tuning the glow plug harness. Turns out if you have a tight spot you can open up the T's and move things around a bit. I may fuss with it a bit more. One draw back to this style harness is that it would be a ****** to install with the lines in place.
I started working on the plumbing. To do that I figured I'd better set the pump in place so I don't screw up and put something where it shouldn't be.
Here's the filter head. I bailed on the valves for now. I just couldn't figure out how to get them in there cleanly. I may pick up a couple swagelok compression valves and see if I can get them in the lines. The heater core lines run out the top. The water will come from the block and into the left side via hose. If you look close, there are hoses behind the alternator. 1 will be the water return from the turbo the other will be the return to the water pump. They tuck pretty nicely up there. All in all, the manifold worked out okay, but not quite as slick as I though. I need to pull it now that I know where things are going and adjust the depth of the tapped holes. Have to love that no two npt's are exactly the same from brand to brand. [emoji21]
I reclocked the turbo so that everybody is pointed in the right direction now. I should also have the desired 20 degree angle for the water ports. Need to get the up pipe on and mounted which means getting the adapter plate back on. Now that I think I have an oil pressure solution, I am not real worried about getting to that rear plug.
Here's what it looks like with the pump quasi installed.
I like the red line clamps. It's a nice touch. I adjusted them and swapped out the bolts for shorter ones so they don't interfere with things now. You can kinda see it here but I made my first AN fuel line. Here's the back side.
I think it will clear everybody. It was the first one I've ever made. Went together pretty well I think. Hopefully it don't leak.
I primed and painted the high idle solenoid. It's still drying.
I haven't really messed with the pump and lines before. It's not going to be pleasant to get those bottom fittings tight. I may have to make one of them there fancy sockets. I think I'll wait to put the injectors and return lines on until I get it in the frame. I may pull the pump back off before I set it in frame.
Starting to come together.
I think I have found an adapter to let me put the oil pressure senders up on the turbo ala banks. 4 AN adapter with double holes tapped 1/8 npt. For the price we will see if it solves the problem. Think I'm going to put a similar dodad in the Schrader valve port for a fuel pressure gauge.
I've been fine tuning the glow plug harness. Turns out if you have a tight spot you can open up the T's and move things around a bit. I may fuss with it a bit more. One draw back to this style harness is that it would be a ****** to install with the lines in place.
I started working on the plumbing. To do that I figured I'd better set the pump in place so I don't screw up and put something where it shouldn't be.
You must be registered for see images attach
Here's the filter head. I bailed on the valves for now. I just couldn't figure out how to get them in there cleanly. I may pick up a couple swagelok compression valves and see if I can get them in the lines. The heater core lines run out the top. The water will come from the block and into the left side via hose. If you look close, there are hoses behind the alternator. 1 will be the water return from the turbo the other will be the return to the water pump. They tuck pretty nicely up there. All in all, the manifold worked out okay, but not quite as slick as I though. I need to pull it now that I know where things are going and adjust the depth of the tapped holes. Have to love that no two npt's are exactly the same from brand to brand. [emoji21]
I reclocked the turbo so that everybody is pointed in the right direction now. I should also have the desired 20 degree angle for the water ports. Need to get the up pipe on and mounted which means getting the adapter plate back on. Now that I think I have an oil pressure solution, I am not real worried about getting to that rear plug.
Here's what it looks like with the pump quasi installed.
You must be registered for see images attach
I like the red line clamps. It's a nice touch. I adjusted them and swapped out the bolts for shorter ones so they don't interfere with things now. You can kinda see it here but I made my first AN fuel line. Here's the back side.
You must be registered for see images attach
I think it will clear everybody. It was the first one I've ever made. Went together pretty well I think. Hopefully it don't leak.
I primed and painted the high idle solenoid. It's still drying.
I haven't really messed with the pump and lines before. It's not going to be pleasant to get those bottom fittings tight. I may have to make one of them there fancy sockets. I think I'll wait to put the injectors and return lines on until I get it in the frame. I may pull the pump back off before I set it in frame.
Starting to come together.
looks great!
those AN lines are easy,
3 things you should keep an eye on while doing them.
1) make sure the hose is cut square.
when i cut them, i make my mark with electrical tape wrapped tight around the hose.
then i use a cut off wheel, in a quick fashion.
2) make sure the hose is pushed into the bottom piece real good.
you want the hose as far in as it can go, making the cut square, ensures that the ID of the hose is round for the AN pipe
3) DO NOT CROSS THREAD.
i know you know better, but its super easy to cross thread them with the fine thread.
once you do, the fitting is done.
4) enjoy!
i have done many many of these, and even with the most screwed up one ive done, and i thought it would leak, never leaked.
your engine is inspiring to paint an engine up as an American flag, but here in commiefornia, we are not apart of the rest
those AN lines are easy,
3 things you should keep an eye on while doing them.
1) make sure the hose is cut square.
when i cut them, i make my mark with electrical tape wrapped tight around the hose.
then i use a cut off wheel, in a quick fashion.
2) make sure the hose is pushed into the bottom piece real good.
you want the hose as far in as it can go, making the cut square, ensures that the ID of the hose is round for the AN pipe
3) DO NOT CROSS THREAD.
i know you know better, but its super easy to cross thread them with the fine thread.
once you do, the fitting is done.
4) enjoy!
i have done many many of these, and even with the most screwed up one ive done, and i thought it would leak, never leaked.
your engine is inspiring to paint an engine up as an American flag, but here in commiefornia, we are not apart of the rest
Yep. That pretty much what I did exactly. I wrapped it in electrical tape and cut through the tape to keep both sides from coming apart. Trying to decide if I should keep pecking at it or just swing it in there and be done with it. I don't think there's anything else that has to be done ahead of time.
and treat the ID of the hose like a injector o-ring, lube it up!
i use spray white lithium.
but dont take my word for it, i still use teflon tape
slap that badboy in!
then you know if everythings going to fit.
remember, i had the mock up engine damn near running before i pulled it.
things will always need a slight tweak
i use spray white lithium.
but dont take my word for it, i still use teflon tape
slap that badboy in!
then you know if everythings going to fit.
remember, i had the mock up engine damn near running before i pulled it.
things will always need a slight tweak
Yeah, standing back staring at it, I'd really like to put the block heater in first. Right now massive garage cleaning is happening to facilitate moving the crane into position. I have to pull the transmission mount off so the trans can slide back. With the added fun of aligning the clutch etc. I think I'll need the extra space. It's a great garage day though. Who would have thought 68 on the Fourth of July.
So I spent most of yesterday cleaning things up a bit and finishing some things. Didn't really take any pictures because nothing really changed. I finished off the water manifold block. The holes needed tapped to final depth to make me happy with the number of threads engaged. Put the oil galley plug back in. Ordered the correct type of block heater and some more AN fittings to finish off the water plumbing now that I think I have it finalized. Missed a spot on the high idle solenoid so hit it a lick and it's still drying. Swaged down the lines on the coolant filter block. Just a bunch of random odds and ends.
Today's effort. I started with this.
Picked it up for under $25. Got it in and it's fairly well made. The site tube is a little cheesy but hey, not bad for the money. So I made a new top for it because the little ports were not going to cut it.
So to kill two birds with one stone I did this.
So the idea is to use this guy to relocate the CDr like this.
I tapped the hole in the top and side for 3/4 npt. I've got pipe nipples coming. One will fit down the middle of the can into a pile of stainless steel mesh. The other will go in the side which will return to the intake.
So I know what you are thinking.... that's way too small. I think you are probably right. It's about 13-14 ounces. Most I've seen are 16-20. So the long and the short of it is, it may not be terribly efficient, but it's got to be better than nothing and it solves the CDr relocation problem. So we will give it a whirl.
That's all for tonight.
You must be registered for see images attach
Picked it up for under $25. Got it in and it's fairly well made. The site tube is a little cheesy but hey, not bad for the money. So I made a new top for it because the little ports were not going to cut it.
So to kill two birds with one stone I did this.
You must be registered for see images attach
So the idea is to use this guy to relocate the CDr like this.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
I tapped the hole in the top and side for 3/4 npt. I've got pipe nipples coming. One will fit down the middle of the can into a pile of stainless steel mesh. The other will go in the side which will return to the intake.
So I know what you are thinking.... that's way too small. I think you are probably right. It's about 13-14 ounces. Most I've seen are 16-20. So the long and the short of it is, it may not be terribly efficient, but it's got to be better than nothing and it solves the CDr relocation problem. So we will give it a whirl.
That's all for tonight.
Hmmmmmm
Well, I don't have a big update but hopefully I'll get back on track now. Made a stop in at the rally and that was inspirational.
So I got my block heater in.
No surprise, this one fit like a glove.
Stupid tax paid. Move on.
Picked up water nipples for the heater hoses.
Theses fit good. Used it in the water pump and the head for the heater hose.
I picked this up for my oil pressure ports.
It goes in line with the turbo feed.
It's got 2 1/8 npt ports in it for senders. If it should give me a good worst case oil pressure reading as its right before the oil restrictor at the turbo.
That's about it. Mowed grass and that pretty well did me in for the night. The crane is in position so next up is adapter plate, turbo on, oil ad water lines made then get her ready to swing in.
So I got my block heater in.
You must be registered for see images attach
No surprise, this one fit like a glove.
You must be registered for see images attach
Stupid tax paid. Move on.
Picked up water nipples for the heater hoses.
You must be registered for see images attach
Theses fit good. Used it in the water pump and the head for the heater hose.
I picked this up for my oil pressure ports.
You must be registered for see images attach
It goes in line with the turbo feed.
You must be registered for see images attach
It's got 2 1/8 npt ports in it for senders. If it should give me a good worst case oil pressure reading as its right before the oil restrictor at the turbo.
That's about it. Mowed grass and that pretty well did me in for the night. The crane is in position so next up is adapter plate, turbo on, oil ad water lines made then get her ready to swing in.
F350camper
BOOST!
Glad you made it out to the rally! It was great catching up with ya.
Well got to it and got the back plate on.
Just a swingin'
This is like the promar anti tamper void warranty seal.
I stuck the up pipe on and immediately realized I have a problem. As I had it clocked, the oil drain points right at the intake. [emoji21]
So if you look close there, you can see point A and B but I don't have a good way to get between them. So I stepped back and scratched my head and thought, can I re-re-clock the center section and get somewhere. So after about 4 tries, I came up with this.
It certainly has no flat spots but it's not the straight drop I was hoping for either. The line will only be about 6" long using these fittings. Good chunk of that is inside the fittings. I think it's serviceable but I'm going to look for alternatives. Always something. [emoji20]
I can make the water lines work but it won't be quite as slick.
I also screwed up and bought 3/8" lock nuts for the exhaust studs and found out they are actually 7/16".
:facepalm
Just a swingin'
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
This is like the promar anti tamper void warranty seal.
You must be registered for see images attach
I stuck the up pipe on and immediately realized I have a problem. As I had it clocked, the oil drain points right at the intake. [emoji21]
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
So if you look close there, you can see point A and B but I don't have a good way to get between them. So I stepped back and scratched my head and thought, can I re-re-clock the center section and get somewhere. So after about 4 tries, I came up with this.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
It certainly has no flat spots but it's not the straight drop I was hoping for either. The line will only be about 6" long using these fittings. Good chunk of that is inside the fittings. I think it's serviceable but I'm going to look for alternatives. Always something. [emoji20]
I can make the water lines work but it won't be quite as slick.
I also screwed up and bought 3/8" lock nuts for the exhaust studs and found out they are actually 7/16".
:facepalm
all part of the game! looks like you got a handle on it tho!
looking killer!
looking killer!
That promar tab is a heat tab of which the centre melts out when over heated thus negating the warranty.
Look close at it it may have a temp rating....order some on ebay...you can have good spares...hint hint nudge nudge wink wink....
Look close at it it may have a temp rating....order some on ebay...you can have good spares...hint hint nudge nudge wink wink....
/begin{rant}
***!!! I buy hose that is clearly labeled -10. I buy fittings that are -10. Hose doesn't fit fittings. Push it on, fitting doesn't bite on hose. ***!!!!! Now I have to go find -10 hose that will actually fit the fittings. Did I mention ***!!!!
/end{rant}
Hose ordered. Thank goodness for Amazon $5.99 overnight shipping.
The money ****** me off but the time infuriates me.
***!!! I buy hose that is clearly labeled -10. I buy fittings that are -10. Hose doesn't fit fittings. Push it on, fitting doesn't bite on hose. ***!!!!! Now I have to go find -10 hose that will actually fit the fittings. Did I mention ***!!!!
/end{rant}
Hose ordered. Thank goodness for Amazon $5.99 overnight shipping.
The money ****** me off but the time infuriates me.
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