10.25 complete axle replacement

Oelmensch

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Skipped lunch so I could bag out of work an hour early, zipped to the pick-n-pull, and 8 bolts later I was holding a sweet used axle for $42. Smooth.

Big freaky axle socket was waiting for me when I got home. Surprise, it doesn't fit with the remains of the axle shaft cold-welded to the interior of the axle tube! Over an hour of knock-off-dremel sanding drum quality time later... and I'm remembering that the driver's side if left hand thread. I was going to have to do the dremel work anyways and will likely clean things up further before reassembly to make sure there is no drag on the center of the socket skewing the torque readings.

The tabbed index washer that the hub-nut interfaces with and does the whole click-mambo for getting the torque setting right, that no longer has anything that qualifies as a locating tab to keep it from rotating relative to the groove at 12o'clock. Instead the sad remains of the tab were hanging out lodged at about 5 o'clock and decided to stay there until I started negotiating with the chisel and hammer.

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Once that got back around to 12 o'clock it came out with a reasonable amount of force and then the hub started raining bearing rollers and generally being annoying to move.

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Well that's a good sign!

A few minutes later, after a handful more rollers fell out and some creative violence on my part, the hub came off.

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The inner-race remains of the outer bearing and the inner hub surface of the inner bearings are both VERY good and stuck on the axle tube. Looks like MORE dremel time assuming the reciprocating saw can't just get things started unless my neighbor has an air-chisel to split them and speed things along.

More tomorrow. Or Friday, I might be busy tomorrow night.
 

TahoeTom

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Left side hub nut is left hand thread. Oops, just saw you posted. Are DRW and single wheel axles the same length? May need to get a hub at the junkyard.
 

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typ4

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If in town tomorrow I may be able to come by and try to get that race off. A saw will not do it. I have magic tools in my service truck.
Anyone gonna shoot at me?
 

Oelmensch

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If in town tomorrow I may be able to come by and try to get that race off. A saw will not do it. I have magic tools in my service truck.
Anyone gonna shoot at me?

Nah, no worries on that happening. That likely to be daytime or post-4:30 if it is an option? I can send you a PM with my address and cell.
 

towcat

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Typ4 will be in the SFBA at the end of the month, if the tube is fubared, a complete used axle that came off a DRW pu for that kind of $$$$ is stupid cheap and the transport can be steeply negotiated.
 

typ4

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It will be daytime if. But who knows with my work schedule. Lol
 

riotwarrior

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Skipped lunch so I could bag out of work an hour early, zipped to the pick-n-pull, and 8 bolts later I was holding a sweet used axle for $42. Smooth.

Big freaky axle socket was waiting for me when I got home. Surprise, it doesn't fit with the remains of the axle shaft cold-welded to the interior of the axle tube! Over an hour of knock-off-dremel sanding drum quality time later... and I'm remembering that the driver's side if left hand thread. I was going to have to do the dremel work anyways and will likely clean things up further before reassembly to make sure there is no drag on the center of the socket skewing the torque readings.

The tabbed index washer that the hub-nut interfaces with and does the whole click-mambo for getting the torque setting right, that no longer has anything that qualifies as a locating tab to keep it from rotating relative to the groove at 12o'clock. Instead the sad remains of the tab were hanging out lodged at about 5 o'clock and decided to stay there until I started negotiating with the chisel and hammer.

You must be registered for see images attach


Once that got back around to 12 o'clock it came out with a reasonable amount of force and then the hub started raining bearing rollers and generally being annoying to move.

You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach


Well that's a good sign!

A few minutes later, after a handful more rollers fell out and some creative violence on my part, the hub came off.

You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach


The inner-race remains of the outer bearing and the inner hub surface of the inner bearings are both VERY good and stuck on the axle tube. Looks like MORE dremel time assuming the reciprocating saw can't just get things started unless my neighbor has an air-chisel to split them and speed things along.

More tomorrow. Or Friday, I might be busy tomorrow night.

Would not be surprised if axle tube iz shot....something looks mighty hot....may hqve spun race and scored tube bad...

Bad ju ju there for sure.

Me wonders what magical wondrous toys @typ4 has to remove those...i know what my fav toy is for that application. Diligent use of blue flame...I wonder if a Mini Ductor would get it hot nuff...hmmmm

Thanks for the updates...looks nasty
 

Oelmensch

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Well if it comes to it, the same truck that I just pulled the driver's axle from yesterday at pick-n-pull still has the DRW axle (though largely stripped at this point) and it looked to be in reasonable shape. I'd have to transfer over the differential/brakes/etc. but it is local and I have more time than money. I'm headed back there today with the socket to get the driver's side hub-nut and toothed-washer assembly since mine are clearly garbage after this so I'll give it a solid inspection and see if it seems viable while I'm there.

I'm curious what tools typ4 has available as well, but when the words 'service truck' are used I assume that means pneumatic if not PTO tools. I previously worked at the railroad in AK and the PTO tooling we had we had on the trucks for track maintenance were pretty hardcore, heavier duty than a lot of shop tools I've used, but there isn't a lot of lightweight work to be done on the railroad.

The VW I referenced in an earlier post involved cutting the races with a dremel and then an air-chisel to split the bearing off, which is great except I don't have an air chisel here. It took some sanding to make the VW spindle pretty again and remove some scarring, but that worked out. Didn't have as much discoloration as this does though, or nearly the same size of bearings.

I'm assuming I'll be cutting the inner bearing apart, then fighting with the inside race similar to the remains of the outer bearing.
 

riotwarrior

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I have bearing splitters and pullers that pop that off but yee be far away....and my fav...torch.

Might be time invest in electric die grinder ....tool investment worth while!
 

laserjock

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That sucker was dry for a while. Probably a seal leak. No oil to keep the water out either so a few trips through the sippy hole and you have toasted bearings. Bearings don't like to run in water. Great for cooling. Lousy for lubrication. Seriously though, take $25 and go to HF and pick up a 4" ginder and some cut off wheels. Its a really small investment for a really useful tool. HF tools last pretty well if you aren't using them daily. Like Shawn said, cut it about 90% and whack it. Probably wouldn't even have to use a chisel. A MAP torch is a good investment too if you don't want to spend o oxy acetylene. You'd be surprised what you can do with MAP that you can't with propane. Tanks are expensive but you don't use it that much.
 

Shawn MacAnanny

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You laugh but I've done it. Had a Mitsubishi fuso destroy the shackle pin frame mount, it was either remove the transmission to get to the frame rivets or Dremel through a 3 inch access. I used about 40 wheels and spent 8 hours but i got all 4 or 5 of them and bolted the new one in haha I think 2 to 3 wheels tops for a bearing race. They really aren't that hard.
 

typ4

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No way I could have made it today, rash of blown hoses for some reason.
Little truck, air tools and knowledge.
I second the 20 dollar HF grinder and a pack of skinny wheels.
 

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