Rear axle questions

[u2slow]

If you plan to disturb the pinion, get a crush-sleeve eliminator beforehand.

The factory traction aid is basically a Dana trac-lok. They are often ineffective. You might get some grip back with a good flush and leaving the modifier additive out.

 

[sjwelds]

Yeah I'm not at all concerned about the limited slip, whether it works or not is of no consequence to me.

So @Nero would you even pop the hubs off and check bearings? I think I should since this thing has sat on its side for an unknown amount of time. I tried to turn the wheel that was up and couldn't get it to budge but that could be brakes froze up as much as anything.

 

[divemaster5734]

Find your axle tag, it'll be on one of the diff cover bolts. Then refer to this list to see what years it was used on.

Ford Rear Axle Assembly Identification - Page 01 - FORDification.com

Overall, I believe any axle from 1987-1997 f250/350 will work. Pinion yoke may be different, but that's easy to swap out.

Rather than start a new thread I'll chime in, after following that link I couldn't find either of these tag codes listed.
All I know is there's some tape on them that say 2003 F250.
I bought them from a guy who claimed he got them from a salvage yard.
I know he was planning on putting them into the donor I got the engine and trans from before he gave up on the project.
I included a picture of the tags.

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Front Axle

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Rear Axle.

I couldn't find anything close on the chart in the link.
How can I identify these axles?

 

[asmith]

Rather than start a new thread I'll chime in, after following that link I couldn't find either of these tag codes listed.
All I know is there's some tape on them that say 2003 F250.
I bought them from a guy who claimed he got them from a salvage yard.
I know he was planning on putting them into the donor I got the engine and trans from before he gave up on the project.
I included a picture of the tags.

You must be registered for see images attach

Front Axle

You must be registered for see images attach

Rear Axle.

I couldn't find anything close on the chart in the link.
How can I identify these axles?

Since yours are newer axles its a little different. The 3.73 should be your gear ratio, which is what most of the newer diesels run. I am guessing on your rear axle tag the L stands for limited slip, but I dont know that for sure. The 10 5 on the rear is for the ring gear size. the '90s trucks use a 10.25 ring gear and the newer trucks use a 10.5, but I believe its all interchangeable.

 

[u2slow]

Rather than start a new thread I'll chime in, after following that link I couldn't find either of these tag codes listed.
All I know is there's some tape on them that say 2003 F250.
I bought them from a guy who claimed he got them from a salvage yard.
I know he was planning on putting them into the donor I got the engine and trans from before he gave up on the project.
I included a picture of the tags.

You must be registered for see images attach

Front Axle

You must be registered for see images attach

Rear Axle.

I couldn't find anything close on the chart in the link.
How can I identify these axles?

You must be registered for see images attach

Ford didn't use 3.73 really until 99+. That 'acorn' bolt head shape tells me the rear is a 10.25/10.5" rather than a Dana.

 

[divemaster5734]

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Ford didn't use 3.73 really until 99+. That 'acorn' bolt head shape tells me the rear is a 10.25/10.5" rather than a Dana.

The rear is a Sterling.
How would I use that chart to find the flange that would fit my driveshaft U joint?

 

[Nero]

Yeah I'm not at all concerned about the limited slip, whether it works or not is of no consequence to me.

So @Nero would you even pop the hubs off and check bearings? I think I should since this thing has sat on its side for an unknown amount of time. I tried to turn the wheel that was up and couldn't get it to budge but that could be brakes froze up as much as anything.

Depends. If the wheel seals aren't leaking now, I'd run them until they do. Sitting that long... They'll leak eventually.

 

[WrenchWhore]

I'd absolutely replace the wheel cylinders, inner axle seals and pinion seal if you've got it out and Infront of you. I've been burned too many times in the past with crispy seals. Once that gear oil mixes with brake dust it's nasty and hard to clean well. When you pull the hubs it usually wants to kill the oil bath seal so have those on hand before you pull them.

 

[u2slow]

The rear is a Sterling.
How would I use that chart to find the flange that would fit my driveshaft U joint?

That only covers Dana/Spicer axles.

How about measure the flange and compare with 2002 superduty parts?

https://www.danaaftermarket.com/search?str=3-2-1859&cat1=0

 

[divemaster5734]

Depends. If the wheel seals aren't leaking now, I'd run them until they do. Sitting that long... They'll leak eventually.

I'd absolutely replace the wheel cylinders, inner axle seals and pinion seal if you've got it out and Infront of you. I've been burned too many times in the past with crispy seals. Once that gear oil mixes with brake dust it's nasty and hard to clean well. When you pull the hubs it usually wants to kill the oil bath seal so have those on hand before you pull them.

That only covers Dana/Spicer axles.

How about measure the flange and compare with 2002 superduty parts?

https://www.danaaftermarket.com/search?str=3-2-1859&cat1=0

I planned on a full brake and wheel bearing rehab, but I would agree, now is the time to get everything possible done, access will never be any easier.
Which means the swap won't take place this weekend as planned.
It's just another day on the resto-mod...

 

[sjwelds]

Update: got the axle hubs taken off and the yoke and pinion seal pulled. So far, aside from hub seals, pinion seal, and one outer bearing with just a bit of rust, everything looks to be in decent condition. The brakes were absolutely garbage so they went bye-bye. I will need to swap the yoke from my current axle as the one that was on the replacement axle was pretty crusty.

So how does the axle vent work? Is the bolt that attaches the brake line tee to the axle also the vent? Any diagrams/videos of how it's supposed to be?

 

[WrenchWhore]

@sjwelds Yep, the axle vent is the hollow bolt that holds down the brake line tee on the axle tube. My brake line has little plastic tabs that holds the vent line next to the brake line up towards the frame.

 

[sjwelds]

Got everything buttoned up and ready to install. My mechanic friend gave me a new crush sleeve and let me use his inch pound dial type torque wrench to get the preload set up at around 10 inch pounds. Then installed hub seals and bearings and put the hubs back on. Started removing the junk axle from the truck but ran out of time. Hopefully be able to finish it up Monday. Grabbed some friction modifier from O'Reilly's and some 80/90 from Walmart so should be good to go.

 

[u2slow]

I wouldn't add the modifier until you've put some miles on it first - see if it actually needs it. If you blindly add it first, and it's already well-worn, you may defeat what grip it has left.

I haven't needed to put modifier in a used posi diff yet.

 

[sjwelds]

I wouldn't add the modifier until you've put some miles on it first - see if it actually needs it. If you blindly add it first, and it's already well-worn, you may defeat what grip it has left.

I haven't needed to put modifier in a used posi diff yet.

Not a bad idea. Thanks.

Is 80/90 what you all would go with? I've seen some conflicting info on it....