u2slow
bilge rat
I use plain 80/90W by the bucket.Not a bad idea. Thanks.
Is 80/90 what you all would go with? I've seen some conflicting info on it....
I use plain 80/90W by the bucket.Not a bad idea. Thanks.
Is 80/90 what you all would go with? I've seen some conflicting info on it....
I’m pretty sure synthetic 75w140 is recommended for the rear diff. I run 80w90 dino in the front though.
So with your expertise, would you still suggest 80w90 in a turboed engine?
Why would you not use the same oil front to rear?I’m pretty sure synthetic 75w140 is recommended for the rear diff. I run 80w90 dino in the front though.
I figure the front isn’t as critical so I run the cheaper oil there.Why would you not use the same oil front to rear?
Goat
Why would you not use the same oil front to rear?
Another way to look at this is that the front's only turning when the hubs are engaged so the front's "not as important".I figure the front isn’t as critical so I run the cheaper oil there.
Yes this is true. My axle guy was able to convert my 89 axle to alieviate that issue when we rebuilt it.Yes this is a good point I forgot about. You want a later axle if possible for the more durable long pinion.
That's why that part's in quotes. If you don't need it, then it doesn't matter. For most of the driving that we do, it isn't needed at all.IDIBRONCO - Another way to look at this is that the front's only turning when the hubs are engaged so the front's "not as important".
Four wheel drive is important! It is most important when you actually NEED IT!! You will NEED IT when it doesn't work!
I agree. That's why I'm going to run it in my crew cab, some day.I was thinking more in terms of temperature. I’m not going to be towing heavy for long distances in 4wd, so the front diff fluid is never going to be seeing sustained 200+ degrees. The rear axle might, so I wanted the 140 weight heavy-duty fluid back there.