Truck died when switching gears, can’t figure out why!

[Kingralph88]

1985 6.9 with aftermarket turbo & gear splitter:

Does not happen all the time but sometimes mainly at lower speeds when shifting gears up or down, clutch is in, no gas & in neutral going to another gear the truck will shut down and need clutch dropped to bump it back to life, or if to slow shut down and use starter.

Truck sat for 2 years give or take and never had this problem before, fuel in front tank is new and runs fine when in gear. Mechanic friend said could be the governor?

See picture attached to what I was told COULD be the problem. I’m not sure looking for some help/ Ideas

 

[Nero]

Could be the govorner sticking. Run a bunch of fuel cleaner through it, it'll clear it out.

 

[Kingralph88]

How many gallons of fuel with a cleaner should I run before it may be a replacement, I’d hate to run like 40 gallons and she’s still stuck lol

Thanks Nero, seen your other comments on mintmoballen’s posts with a problem similar to mine

 

[Nero]

When my truck did the same thing when I let it sit for 8 months, it took maybe 30 miles to clear out, and I just put a whole bottle in a half full tank. I think the power service bottles come in quarts.

 

[Kingralph88]

Ok I will try that, I do notice it gets a little better when she’s warm but hard to tell. I will give that a try.

Anywhere online that sells new governors? Curious on the price and can’t find them anywhere.


Edit: found them with the search DB2 Fuel Pump.

 

[gandalf]

I would suspect a sticking metering valve. The symptoms sound pretty close. Sitting still, in neutral, hold the rpm up, maybe 2000 rpm or more, for a moment, then quickly remove your foot from the go-pedal. If the engine dies, or even drops significantly below normal idle, then your metering valve is sticking. In that case, remove the fuel filter, empty it and refill with a cleaner/conditioner. We used to suggest ATF, but there are better products. Replace the refilled fuel filter and start the engine. Let it run for just a moment, until you can hear the engine note change slightly (certainly less than a minute), and shut it down. Let it sit overnight, soaking the IP with that cleaner, and start it the following day, and drive it like you stole it.

Report back with results.

 

[Kingralph88]

Sounds good I will, have not been at my house lately (camping trip) When I’m back going to try all methods and see what happens and get back with a post!

 

[Kingralph88]

She’s soaking in ATF at the moment.. I’ll report back tomorrow with an update.

 

[Kingralph88]

Let it sit overnight with ATF in fuel pump (turned on so it could reach IP), also put cleaner in the fuel tank. Drove it around a little and still happened a couple of times, got fuel and nothing really changed. For some reason my fuel gauge doesn’t work on a full tank either?

 

[Kingralph88]

Would it be practical to take apart the IP and clean it nicely then install again?

 

[DaveBen]

It would NOT be a good idea to take apart your IP. This is a very precise pump with specific timing. If you think the IP is bad you could contact a reputable rebuilder. There are a couple here.

 

[Nero]

You have to drive it a bit more than just a little bit. Depending on the severity of the sticking you may need to drive it 30-50 miles with varying engine speeds to really work it loose.

 

[Kingralph88]

Ok sounds good I’ll give her a nice drive to the DMV today about 30 Miles away.

the PO left a new lifter pump still in the box he didn’t have the time to change it before he sold it to me, wouldn’t hurt to change it out? Not sure if the lifter pump could be suspect.

 

[Nero]

I doubt the cam pump is culprit.

 

[Kingralph88]

Won’t waste anytime on it, thank you

Different problem now: Turned the key over and really rough start (hard to start) and super low RPM with tons of white smoke coming from exhaust. I’ll see if I can upload a video, pulled phone out as soon as something wasn’t working right.