Intermittent crank + start switch Again? + push button

[rreegg]

Thanks for all the suggestions, I wonder now if the loose ignition switch nuts were a red herring since the intermittent crank seems to be present when warm restart.
A few times the past couple days I’d turn to “start” when engine warm and it wouldn’t click at all, but sometimes it would click. The no click is a recent development.

I’ll turn my focus to ground and wiring integrity and possibly replace the starter solenoid. Napa seems to have em in stock

Guess for trouble shooting will run the engine til warm and see what happens while jumping the solenoid with a wrench

A multi-modal failure isn’t out of the question either, could be the starter switch and solenoid or something like that

 

[rreegg]

Have had a difficult time reproducing this no-crank issue the past week or so. It’s come up a few times but with no obvious pattern - replaced the starter solenoid with a Napa unit and we’ll see how things are from now on.
If the issue persists will look into the starter motor now and more seriously try to install a push button switch.

 

[rreegg]

Happened to repro the no-crank condition again just now. Just a click.

Likely narrowed this down to the starter motor so considering rebuild etc

 

[Dentside diesel]

I just went through this. My starter was a reman but has been solid for three years. Never abused or overcranked. One day it just wouldnt start, went inside came back out with tools and suddenly it was working fine. Happened again about 1 month later. I jumped the terminals on the starter and it fired right up. Solenoid was the culprit in my case. Bought a powermaster hd starter. Money well spent. No problems now. By the way if you buy a powermaster the top mounting bolt for some reason seems to give people alot of problems. use a 1/4” ratchet,socket and long extension from the front top of the starter you can get right at the bolt. Good luck. Ps. The solenoid is replaceable if you want to go that route.

 

[Brian VT]

Before I installed my PM starter I put the top bolt part way into the hole and put the right length socket and extension on the bolt and taped it all to the starter body before going under the truck to install it. Then I put the starter in and screwed the 2 lower bolts in so then the top bolt was lined up.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Someone(s) mentioned Push-Button Start and also that pot-metal actuating rod inside the column that can break and leave you helpless.

Several years ago, I flew in on my truck and didn't quit until I had eliminated that whole key-switch/ignition mess and replaced it all Big Truck Style.

I even disabled the column lock.

You can turn my key all you want and nothing will happen as it is not connected to anything.

I wouldn't have it put back like original for a thouzand dollars.

My push-button does not eliminate the solenoid/relay; it triggers the solenoid/relay; in fact, I have TWO solenoid/relays, side-by-side, and they work in tandem; thus, halving the arc problems that eventually kill them; and, should one go haywire, the other will go ahead and start the truck.

I have cable-kill as well; push the cable in and the engine will run; pull it out and the engine immediately stops.

My "Key-On" is a big no-nonsense Toggle Switch that sounds like the hammer coming to full **** on Matt Dillon's .45; this Toggle Switch triggers a big constant-duty solenoid to which all Key-On accessories source their power.

 

[tbowker]

I even disabled the column lock.

I kept my column lock; I like that feature.

I have cable-kill as well; push the cable in and the engine will run; pull it out and the engine immediately stops.

That sounds like a good safety feature in case of a runaway engine. There's been talk of a block off plate before. How did you manage this cable- kill?

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

How did you manage this cable- kill?

In my case, I just routed a cable from the dash to the manual kill lever on the Bosch injector-pump.

In your case, with probably a Stanadyne pump, you will have to create this lever.

As best I remember from 18-years ago, the IDI pump has a "hard" inlet line.

There are two ways you can approach this, depending on what parts you can source and such things as clearance issues.

The inlet line is a very low pressure line and would better be served with a quality rubber line, RS7 I believe.

If clearance and room will allow, find yourself an adapter that will adapt the inlet hole in the pump to plain old NPT threads; then, screw on a ball-cut-off valve that you have drilled a hole in the lever to attach your kill cable.

If this is not possible right at the pump, then cut and flare the hard line somewhere where it is possible and put your ball-cut-off valve there --- don't forget to put your flare nut on the line and in the correct orientation BEFORE making the flare.

In either case, from the ball-cut-off valve away from the pump, toward the source, replace the hard line with preferably 06 JIC swivel fittings and rubber line - or - plain jane NPT hose barbs, clamps, and rubber line.

The farther away from the pump that your cut-off valve is, the less rapid the kill action will be, as there will be a modicum of pressure between the cut-off and the pump; I am talking a difference of fractions of a second; it's not like you pull the cable and the engine runs for another five minutes.

I love my kill cable.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I forgot to add = you most likely have an electronic plunger thingie that shuts off the fuel when you turn off the key.

Once you get your kill cable performing to expectations, find this electronic fuel shut-off and take the guts out of it; most likely a rubber-tipped plunger that magnetically blocks or opens a fuel port --- if that be the case, just remove that plunger.

 

[tbowker]

In my case, I just routed a cable from the dash to the manual kill lever on the Bosch injector-pump.

In your case, with probably a Stanadyne pump, you will have to create this lever.

As best I remember from 18-years ago, the IDI pump has a "hard" inlet line.

There are two ways you can approach this, depending on what parts you can source and such things as clearance issues.

The inlet line is a very low pressure line and would better be served with a quality rubber line, RS7 I believe.

If clearance and room will allow, find yourself an adapter that will adapt the inlet hole in the pump to plain old NPT threads; then, screw on a ball-cut-off valve that you have drilled a hole in the lever to attach your kill cable.

If this is not possible right at the pump, then cut and flare the hard line somewhere where it is possible and put your ball-cut-off valve there --- don't forget to put your flare nut on the line and in the correct orientation BEFORE making the flare.

In either case, from the ball-cut-off valve away from the pump, toward the source, replace the hard line with preferably 06 JIC swivel fittings and rubber line - or - plain jane NPT hose barbs, clamps, and rubber line.

The farther away from the pump that your cut-off valve is, the less rapid the kill action will be, as there will be a modicum of pressure between the cut-off and the pump; I am talking a difference of fractions of a second; it's not like you pull the cable and the engine runs for another five minutes.

I love my kill cable.

That sounds doable. I'll add this to my list of things to repair/ modify on this truck. Thanks. Pictures to follow.