So what did you do with your truck today?

ttman4 said:

@DougBoy66 & @Nero & some you others look at my thread I posted back in 2018 Oil Cooler Rebuild Boo-Boo, About starting with post #11 I show a test plate I built and later where I got the directions.

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Here is pics of my Oil Cooler test plate I built several yrs ago and posted back in 2018 under the thread "Oil Cooler rebuild Boo Boo"
Post # 14 show pics in the book of how to build Test Plate.

Back in December, I think it was New Year’s Eve, I put a 6.0 PSD air filter system on my 86, which has a Hypermax turbo.

I recently put a Hypermax turbo kit on my 91 service truck, and decided to do something a little different. Hypermax offers a cowl air induction kit, which uses the factory naturally aspirated round air filter, as is intended with their turbo kits. This is the result.





On the highway there is slight pressure at the cowl, so there is plenty of air for both the engine and the cab air inlet.

Definitely a lot better than drawing in that hot under hood air, I noticed lower EGT with this.

About $100 on Hypermax Engineering’s website, works with naturally aspirated engines too of course, they also have one of these for the factory turbo 093 as well.

I have a lot of those factory air filter housings, some with and without the soup bowl. I prefer to keep the soup bowl on, keep it a little bit quieter. It really doesn’t look like it restrict airflow that much, so I leave it on.

Looks right at home with the hydroboost setup, since no big vac booster taking up all that space. How much lower EGTs?

The_Josh_Bear said:

Looks right at home with the hydroboost setup, since no big vac booster taking up all that space. How much lower EGTs?

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I would say that my WOT EGT’s are about 100 to 150° lower. Cruising is probably 150 to 200° lower.

Too bad it isn’t quite as easy to install an intercooler kit… it should be here next week, but I won’t be around to put it on… my understanding is that’s quite a bit more involved… I guess I’ll get to that when I get to it

Oh, I’ve got a question, where is a good place to tie into the instrument display lights? I want to add a light to my EGT and boost gauge, but I don’t really know where to tie into that, I want it to be dimmable… couldn’t find anything on the internet… maybe somebody here knows

KansasIDI said:

Oh, I’ve got a question, where is a good place to tie into the instrument display lights? I want to add a light to my EGT and boost gauge, but I don’t really know where to tie into that, I want it to be dimmable… couldn’t find anything on the internet… maybe somebody here knows

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Cigarette lighter is part of that circuit. I'm pretty sure that's where I tapped into my gauge cluster for the dimming function. Although I could be thinking of hacking into that for a deck or two I've installed 15+ years ago for the same thing... Being little 5w bulbs I didn't worry about changing the wiring or fuse size. Never have had an issue.

If you need it dimmable than you don’t want to be on an always hot like the cig light. You would pull the headlight switch and then choose a wire in the circuit that’s hot only when the lights are on so that the gauges dim at night and don’t fry your eyeballs.

Josh - I’m interest to hear more how you used the cig lighter for dimmable? I might have initially assumed you meant the hot cig 12v and now I’m thinking you meant the bulb that’s above the cig lighter which would make sense. I like that one too but it can be alittle wonky if you have to remove the tray.

hacked89 said:

If you need it dimmable than you don’t want to be on an always hot like the cig light. You would pull the headlight switch and then choose a wire in the circuit that’s hot only when the lights are on so that the gauges dim at night and don’t fry your eyeballs.

Nero - I’m interest to hear more how you used the cig lighter for dimmable? I might have initially assumed you meant the hot cig 12v and now I’m thinking you meant the bulb that’s above the cig lighter which would make sense. I like that one too but it can be a little wonky if you have to remove the tray.

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I already removed my tray, I put an aftermarket switch panel there, that has USB ports. I unplugged my tray’s light, but if that is indeed dimmable, that would be a pretty good spot to tap in. I’ll look into it then. If that doesn’t work then I’ll pull from the headlight switch. Thanks guys!

FYI on a 91 at least, and I would suppose all bricknose trucks, the ashtray light is in fact dimmable.

hacked89 said:

If you need it dimmable than you don’t want to be on an always hot like the cig light. You would pull the headlight switch and then choose a wire in the circuit that’s hot only when the lights are on so that the gauges dim at night and don’t fry your eyeballs.

Josh - I’m interest to hear more how you used the cig lighter for dimmable? I might have initially assumed you meant the hot cig 12v and now I’m thinking you meant the bulb that’s above the cig lighter which would make sense. I like that one too but it can be alittle wonky if you have to remove the tray.

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Yes, sorry I wasn't clear. I didn't mean the actual cig lighter but the light ring/bulb part. It's honestly been nearly a decade and my goldfish memory isn't up to the task! My other thought was tapping into the back of the headlight switch, at least on the truck side of the wiring so you can easily replace the switch itself later on as they tend to die. OP, just make sure it's still fused whatever way you pick!

The_Josh_Bear said:

Yes, sorry I wasn't clear. I didn't mean the actual cig lighter but the light ring/bulb part. It's honestly been nearly a decade and my goldfish memory isn't up to the task! My other thought was tapping into the back of the headlight switch, at least on the truck side of the wiring so you can easily replace the switch itself later on as they tend to die. OP, just make sure it's still fused whatever way you pick!

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Youuu don’t need a fuse… the wiring and bulb IS a fuse

It’s tied into the instrument cluster lights at the ashtray light, which has a fuse in the standard fuse board, so I didn’t add one, since to me it already has one, there is no power there without the fuse, so I figured that was good enough.

I have a fuse block above and to the right of the accelerator pedal, that I use to power my switches, that go to relays, and also my USB phone charger. I have it set up to run basically anything with low/light draw that needs power. Has a ground block built in which is nice. My goal is to keep my additional wiring as tidy and neat as I can, while making sure that all circuits are protected with whatever necessary fuses and relays. The switches I use are grounded so having the ground block right there is definitely nice

Made it to the lake, stopped by a scale on my way up the highway.

4280 front axle
8360 rear axle
10400 gvw

Why do I do this to myself?

On another note. Handling was way improved, can accelerate up hills, and do 80 no problem.

Nero said:

Made it to the lake, stopped by a scale on my way up the highway.

4280 front axle
8360 rear axle
10400 gvw

Why do I do this to myself?

On another note. Handling was way improved, can accelerate up hills, and do 80 no problem.

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You certainly did the right thing getting that dually installed. Nice work and glad to hear she did the job well! Have fun!

Nero said:

Made it to the lake, stopped by a scale on my way up the highway.

4280 front axle
8360 rear axle
10400 gvw

Why do I do this to myself?

On another note. Handling was way improved, can accelerate up hills, and do 80 no problem.

Click to expand...

Yeah that’s why I sold my idi truck for towing cause I wouldn’t be able to not look at the numbers and it didn’t add up. Better to not know haha

I finally got the truck back on the road this weekend after spending the past 6 weeks doing a bunch of upgrades.

- Pulled the bed and replaced the rear fuel tank sending unit and pickup.

- Swapped the T19+Ranger OD for a ZF 5 spd, including longer driveshaft and new clutch, flywheel.

- Installed a CDD 90 cc Pump and re-timed the engine.

The truck is definitely a hot rod now, and runs much quieter as well. Just have to finish a few minor things up, like remounting the spare tire, and fixing the carpet over the transmission hump.