Sounds like a life motto, right there!
"Tank" my 91 Crew Cab Dually
- Thread starter chillman88
- Start date
I'm not on speaking terms with either of you now
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But... At least I knew what I had to do so there's that hahaha
Those darn lips on the side where the two halves meet are the problem. If it wasn't painted already I probably would have beaten them flat and it would have gone in.
Rdnck84_03
Full Access Member
I was hoping your luck was better than mine! 
Believe me I seriously thought about bending those seams to get it to clear, only reason I didn't was for fear of causing a leak in the seam.
James
Believe me I seriously thought about bending those seams to get it to clear, only reason I didn't was for fear of causing a leak in the seam.
James
I was hoping your luck was better than mine!
Believe me I seriously thought about bending those seams to get it to clear, only reason I didn't was for fear of causing a leak in the seam.
James
My luck isn't usually better than anyone but I appreciate the optimism hahaha.
I needed another drill bit so I went to lunch, then went to Lowe's for the drill bit and some stuff to build the wife a small shelving unit. Got back home and realized I somehow managed to bring the wrong boards home (after checking a few times) so I had to drive 20min away to swap them out....
I was supposed to be back on this project by 2 and it's 4:30......
It is what it is I guess hahaha.
Like everything else I do on this project I have a plan to unnecessarily overcomplicate the mounting system for the taller tank. I'll share that when I get it done
As promised here's my unnecessary overcomplication.
I didn't want to use the spacers and extra long bolts. I'm sure they're fine but I was able to find a way to play with my tools and do something unique.
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5/8 hex bar stock drilled and form tapped to 3/8-16. Roughly 5.5" long up front and 6" long on the back. Should be every bit as strong as the spacers and bolts once she's all tightened up. I'm pretty sure the stock bolts were M10 anyway. It's just mocked up loose right now, I'm going to cut some stall mat to go between the skid plate and fuel tank. Now that I know they're approximately the right size I'll clean and paint them and hopefully final bolt the tank in tomorrow.
Old Goat
Full Access Member
****, Maybe throw on some lock tite on the threads.
I don`t have the Skit Plate on my 86, just the 2 Straps.
Yeah you want some type of rubber between the two.
Stall Mat is some tuff stuff, maybe 3/4" thick. Maybe
there is different thicknesses of it.
Years ago maybe in the 90`s first discovered it, and bought
a mat and cut to fit my 82 Datsun 720 KC. Some heavy stuff
weighs more than I do and flops around pickin it up and
moving it. Like trying to wrastle a fat girl.
Kept all the pieces I cut off, and cut some pads out of it to
mount my new 60 Gal Compressor to the concrete floor.
W/O rubber between the feet and concrete, the legs will
eventually crack at the welds from the vibration.
You will love having that new 38 gal tank.
Note: S E X Y is a dirty word?
Goat
I don`t have the Skit Plate on my 86, just the 2 Straps.
Yeah you want some type of rubber between the two.
Stall Mat is some tuff stuff, maybe 3/4" thick. Maybe
there is different thicknesses of it.
Years ago maybe in the 90`s first discovered it, and bought
a mat and cut to fit my 82 Datsun 720 KC. Some heavy stuff
weighs more than I do and flops around pickin it up and
moving it. Like trying to wrastle a fat girl.
Kept all the pieces I cut off, and cut some pads out of it to
mount my new 60 Gal Compressor to the concrete floor.
W/O rubber between the feet and concrete, the legs will
eventually crack at the welds from the vibration.
You will love having that new 38 gal tank.
Note: S E X Y is a dirty word?
Goat
I plan to distort a thread with a punch on each and then use loctite as well. Definitely don't want this thing deciding to take a vacation!
Yessir. Plan was to put "drainage" side up so the salt won't be sitting against the tank and I can just wash it out but I'm not sure because that side appears somewhat porous and I don't know if that'd make things worse instead...
What isn't a dirty word anymore...... Waiting for them to Censor "hard work"
Rdnck84_03
Full Access Member
Don't think we have much to worry about there, the snowflakes that need everything censored have no idea what it is anyway!Waiting for them to Censor "hard work"
James
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Man those look great!. The stall mat is another good idea.
I did on mine.
The word "dirty". See? it wasn't censored out.
Cut the stall mat to 24x32 which is roughly what I measured the tank bottom to be.
The tank has a little bump out on the bottom, probably to act as a sump? I trimmed the center out of the stall mat to clear that. The bump out isn't centered so I just took the smallest measurements and cut the whole a little large. The stall mat is pretty tough and I didn't want uneven pressure because of the little bump out.
Pictured are the painted spacers as well.
I took a punch and a 3lb hammer to approximately the third thread down inside each spacer. One solid but not super aggressive hit per hole. That will distort just enough to create some mechanical locking and still leave a few threads to get everything started.
Tank is "temporarily permanent" now. I'm was going to do something different so I only had 4 flange bolts and I'd rather have everything matching so I'm going to wait to tighten everything up until I can get 4 more. They will get blue thread locker and anything that gets tight before bottoming out will get a couple washers. I want it to be nice and snug against the rubber but I also want the majority of the force to be against the spacers and not just the bolt. Wouldn't matter for compressive force but I'd imagine 30+gal of fuel sloshing around will be putting some side force on everything and having everything tight against the spacers will stop the bolts from moving around in the threads are eventually wearing them out.
The tank has a little bump out on the bottom, probably to act as a sump? I trimmed the center out of the stall mat to clear that. The bump out isn't centered so I just took the smallest measurements and cut the whole a little large. The stall mat is pretty tough and I didn't want uneven pressure because of the little bump out.
Pictured are the painted spacers as well.
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I took a punch and a 3lb hammer to approximately the third thread down inside each spacer. One solid but not super aggressive hit per hole. That will distort just enough to create some mechanical locking and still leave a few threads to get everything started.
Tank is "temporarily permanent" now. I'm was going to do something different so I only had 4 flange bolts and I'd rather have everything matching so I'm going to wait to tighten everything up until I can get 4 more. They will get blue thread locker and anything that gets tight before bottoming out will get a couple washers. I want it to be nice and snug against the rubber but I also want the majority of the force to be against the spacers and not just the bolt. Wouldn't matter for compressive force but I'd imagine 30+gal of fuel sloshing around will be putting some side force on everything and having everything tight against the spacers will stop the bolts from moving around in the threads are eventually wearing them out.
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I'm sure some of my piddly little updates are dull for you guys but I'm just happy for any progress I can make and keep plugging along no matter how small.
Bolts showed up today and I got everything tightened up WITH BLUE LOCTITE. I'm happy with how it turned out!
Started the bolts in the hitch. Have to get some red loctite before I put that back on. Supposed to get some big thunderstorms tonight and tomorrow. I put what's left of the stall mat over the tank to keep the rain off.
Bolts showed up today and I got everything tightened up WITH BLUE LOCTITE. I'm happy with how it turned out!
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Started the bolts in the hitch. Have to get some red loctite before I put that back on. Supposed to get some big thunderstorms tonight and tomorrow. I put what's left of the stall mat over the tank to keep the rain off.
tbowker
Full Access Member
Ooh, that's beautiful. Puts mine to shame.
Old Goat
Full Access Member
Keep the info coming, like reading what others are doing,
then I can spend money on things I didn`t know I needed.
Goat
then I can spend money on things I didn`t know I needed.
Goat
Old Goat
Full Access Member
Are you going to do the fast fill vent mod?
I used one of these...
The 3/4" threaded end will screw into the over flow rubber grommet.
I used 3/4 x 3/4, did it again would be 3/4 x 1/2. Off the 1/2" connect a hose up
to the top of the Fill Tube. Drill a hole and open it up just enough where another
1/2 x 1/2 will just catch the threads and screw in. Then JB Weld around the fitting.
Be sure to rough up the metal so the JB has a good grip.
I cut off above HEX part, then opened up the hole enough so what I cut off will fit
tight and use some plastic cement to keep it secure.
Did this the clear the bottom of the bed. Has worked great.
Buy a piece of fuel rated hose from your local Hyd shop. Heater Hose will not
work....well for a while maybe.
Used it like this for quite a while, but then realized "OH I need a vent" so as the fuel
is used, air replaces it. I drilled another hole at the top of the Fill Tube and installed
a 3/8" Brass fitting and ran the hose up past the bucket on a 1" x 1/8" aluminum
strap, and bolted it to the bucket. Then stuck in a plastic Differential Vent thingy.
Used a couple hose clamps with the rubber
Bucket== the recessed piece when you open the Fuel Door.
Goat
I used one of these...
Loading…
www.plumbingsupply.com
The 3/4" threaded end will screw into the over flow rubber grommet.
I used 3/4 x 3/4, did it again would be 3/4 x 1/2. Off the 1/2" connect a hose up
to the top of the Fill Tube. Drill a hole and open it up just enough where another
1/2 x 1/2 will just catch the threads and screw in. Then JB Weld around the fitting.
Be sure to rough up the metal so the JB has a good grip.
I cut off above HEX part, then opened up the hole enough so what I cut off will fit
tight and use some plastic cement to keep it secure.
Did this the clear the bottom of the bed. Has worked great.
Buy a piece of fuel rated hose from your local Hyd shop. Heater Hose will not
work....well for a while maybe.
Used it like this for quite a while, but then realized "OH I need a vent" so as the fuel
is used, air replaces it. I drilled another hole at the top of the Fill Tube and installed
a 3/8" Brass fitting and ran the hose up past the bucket on a 1" x 1/8" aluminum
strap, and bolted it to the bucket. Then stuck in a plastic Differential Vent thingy.
Used a couple hose clamps with the rubber
Bucket== the recessed piece when you open the Fuel Door.
Goat
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