Stomper4x4
Registered User
Yeah not ideal buddy haha. Thanks for the help, much appreciated!
Intermittent violent engine shaking, possible misfire.
- Thread starter Stomper4x4
- Start date
Yeah not ideal buddy haha. Thanks for the help, much appreciated!
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Sure. The numbers are FC65662 for the pilot bearing and 614062 for the throw out bearing. Rock Auto has the pilot in stock, but not the throw out bearing. Od course that could chanfe tomorrow.
Yes they are direct replacements.
Yes. That's it with the correct part number. The last one I bought was from Amazon for right about $200. That was about three years back. I'm sure that it didn't come with the Timken bearings and plan to buy them before I install it.
Stomper4x4
Registered User
Perfect thanks again. Super appreciated!!
I'm going to do the rear main seal while I'm in there, it's oily down there.
Thanks for the tips, part numbers, and info.
Seems RA is a good price for the clutch kit, other places are $400+. Yikes.
So rear main, clutch kit, Timken bearings, and I already have a new clutch fork around here somewhere.
I'm certainly no expert on this but I thought a repair sleeve was considered a standard part of replacing the rear main seal due to the old seal wearing a slight groove. I know mine leaked a bit without the repair sleeve.
Stomper4x4
Registered User
I've been having a look at some threads here about the rear main, and it seems a fair number of guys had to do that, or elected to. I'll probably get one and have it on hand if needed.
Stomper4x4
Registered User
I saw that option too. I think I've decided that if I'm getting into it that far, I might as well get everything done so I don't have to get in there again any time soon!
Rdnck84_03
Full Access Member
Lol
How many times have I “discovered” some “engineering” on my truck and wondered, “*** happened here?!?”, only to remember my “temporary fix” from several years back.
Edit: *** = W T F.
The stupid robot reads my post but not my signature?
W T F ?
ROCK HARVEY
Full Access Member
I didn’t touch my rear main when I swapped flywheels, it wasn’t leaking so I left it alone. Plenty of people do it preventatively, but they are fiddly to install and you may end up with a leak when you didn’t have one before.
One other thing I would be prepared for is a buggered up input shaft on the ZF5 where the old pilot bearing chewed it up. You can buy repair kits with a repair sleeve and special bearing if this turns out to be the case.
One other thing I would be prepared for is a buggered up input shaft on the ZF5 where the old pilot bearing chewed it up. You can buy repair kits with a repair sleeve and special bearing if this turns out to be the case.
ROCK HARVEY
Full Access Member
Oh one other thing I definitely recommend replacing is the transmission mount. They’re cheap and a new one will help keep your ZF5 tailhousing from cracking like mine did!
The ZF can take some shaking, at least at N/A power levels. Years back I had a weird vibration start while driving to the dump with a full load of junk so getting an immediate tow wasn't an option--in my area the local AAA affiliated TT drivers have told me AAA has become bizarrely uptight regarding towing a vehicle with ANYTHING in the bed. I even asked if a ladder in the bed was a problem and the driver said technically "yes" and it was grounds for potentially denying someone a tow. Yay?! Anyways, the vibration turned out to be a failing u-joint at the rear of the drive line where it attaches to the rear diff and it got so bad that the clutch inspection plate got tweakeled enough to where part of it was making contact with the flywheel and had to be removed. Surprisingly, I'm a good 30-40k down the road since then and no issues with the trans or related parts. No inspection plate either as it burned up in a wildfire but that hasn't been an issue so far.
Stomper4x4
Registered User
Agreed, but mine leaks so, it needs to be done.
I wish Ford had Toyota build quality. Just a new clutch becomes a whole pile of potential problems. My 92 Toyota is exponentially better made than the 89 Ford. But I need a big pickup and Ford is the best of those.
The Toyotas of the 80s and 90s seem to be well made but I won't ever drive another Toyota after owning a 1st gen Tundra--what a piece of garbage from grille to tailgate. There were at least 5 points where water would pour in to the extent that even trying to quickly wash the vehicle resulted in massive amounts of water in the cab, and none of the fixes were going to be easy. Almost every 1st gen owner I've spoken to had water leaks somewhere in the cab--no acceptable excuse for that failure from Toyota. Water would get behind the glovebox and reach some computer component where I would then find the fuel pump just running randomly--had to disconnect the battery cables when truck wasn't in use. You have to remove the exhaust or intake manifold to change the starter, tons of rattles and squeaks, less leg room in a king cab configuration than an '86 regular cab 'Yota with bench seat, and it's still not a full size truck despite what Toyota may claim. My '92 F250/F350 has ten times the build quality of a 2003 Tundra 4x4, but again, I do think the 80s and 90s small Toyotas were pretty well made for what they are.
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