These things are a pain to bleed. I probably pressed the pedal 1000x with my foot, no kidding. You can pull the inspection cover off the bottom to see whether you are getting any separation. As soon as you’ve bled it enough to get it to shift gears, start driving it. The vibrations/movement will help the rest of the bubbles get out of the slave cylinder. Until then I would just keep pumping the pedal.
I just converted a C350 from E4OD to ZF. The '89 master and slaves don't come pre primed, so I had to install bone dry parts, then bleed myself.
Aside from having to recondition the brake/clutch assembly after it had sat for 15 years in a field, I installed a stage 3 South Bay, and did it all solo.
I found a vacuum bleeder online for about $50 that uses compressed air.
What amazed me was not only how well it worked, but leaving the vacuum on long after I would have normally had my fill of squirting fluid everywhere if I had a buddy to manually bleed, I continued to get random small air bubbles for at least a minute.
I discovered an error made when installing the bearing mod at the pedal,( didn't torque the arm down enough), and then the clutch worked perfectly.
I used the bleeder again to draw out tranny fluid from the cooler, filter, and lines, on a C6 I just rebuilt, and was able to pull out almost two quarts of 22 year old abused ATF that was contaminated by the smoked transmission, and would have compromised the rebuilt one.
Any compressor that will develop 60psi will work.
I got it for my big 80gallon and wound up using a little pancake portable.
After reading your topic I'm hoping I didn't mess up because I pulled the cap off the slave because there wasn't one on the donor, and I had no other reference.
Hopefully that wont cause an issue later.
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I also used it to empty a PS pump before swapping.
I will never be a slave to manual bleeding or line evacuation again.
