Clutch pedal stiff & doesn’t engage the clutch when depressed, also pedal gets stuck when coming back out?

Rdnck84_03

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Looking at the two pictures of Ralph's and Clb's slave cylinders, it's pretty obvious that Ralph's is sticking out almost all the way. I'm not saying that it's a wrong slave cylinder, but something's causing this to happen.
I agree. @Kingralph88 if someone wasn't holding the clutch pedal down when that picture was taken then you definitely have an issue.

James
 

Sergey

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ha
Today drove my 1985 6.9 4 speed with OD to the golf course. When I was in the parking lot it felt like it didn’t want to find a gear and thought it was just me, but now I’m certain because the clutch won’t engage for me to put the truck into any gear!

Any thoughts on this? The pedal seems like it doesn’t want to fully depress, reset when foot is taken off. This is a new truck to me and have no clue about these transmissions.

I currently am at the golf course with the truck parked where I left it getting a ride back to pick up my other truck. Any help/ ideas would be awesome!
my truck had that for a while (= developing crack in bell housing where the pivot for clutch fork is), then bell housing broke into pieces. I've described it here, last year or so
 

Kingralph88

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Try this...
Hook up your bleeder to the slave cyl., then crack the bleeder, then try and shove the pushrod back into the cylinder all the way in.
If it goes in smoothly good.

Careful about the pressure plate tension.
Rebleed and test.

If it's notchy it probably extended past the throw and needs removal and reassembling.
Check out this video I am about to post after replying.

I went under and tried to push the clutch fork back and it did not want to go at first, but once I moved the slave cylinder piston it felt like the slave just wanted to fall down, very easy to remove. I then put the slave back in place to record a video, I do intend to replace the slave so I’m not worried about damaging it, but is the clutch fork supposed to move like this, or do you think it’s thrown past the throwout?
 

Kingralph88

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Ok so I went to the store and picked up a new slave, started to remove the old slave and I was curious about the clutch fork moving so easily so I removed the boot and it literally fell right out, check out the video attached. It is cracked/bent from I assume the slave pushing on it to hard or malfunctioned and built up to much pressure and broke it?

Lemme know what you think, currently on a mission to find a new clutch arm.
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Kingralph88

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Inside of the clutch arm housing, tried to get a clear video and see if I can check out the clutch while the arm is removed, if something looks out of place let me know, thanks guys!
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Kingralph88

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I would disconnect the master cylinder pushrod from the lever on the pedal bracket assembly up under the dash. That way you can see if the clutch pedal moves normally when it’s not connected to anything. This should tell you whether the problem is in the pedal assembly or farther down the line (clutch hydraulics or throwout bearing lever)
I did this exactly and the pedal moves great, it is somewhere from the pedal assembly to the clutch (master, slave, I already know the fork is broken, but something caused it to break).

Attached is a video of the clutch pushrod removed and pushing the clutch in and out with just the assembly attached. This is normal movement correct?
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Clb

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First
In video 1
You need to push the fork to the rear so it pivots on the ball and hits the pressure plate.
Time for new fork.
The rest is probably ok.
But next time you go into the bellhousing, new t.o.b. and check the disk and flywheel surfaces.
You need pressure plate spring pressure against the slave to push it back and return the pedal to the top...
 
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IDIBRONCO

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If you push on the clutch pedal while the slave rod isn't installed, it often causes the slave to overextend and then it leaks. I don't know if you can put the clutch fork back together and weld it. Otherwise, nothing looks wrong inside the bellhousing to me.
 
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Kingralph88

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If you push on the clutch pedal while the slave rod isn't installed, it often causes the slave to overextend and then it leaks. I don't know if you can put the clutch fork back together and weld it. Otherwise, nothing looks wrong inside the bellhousing to me.
That’s exactly what I did, I took the clutch fork and welded it back together.

Also the slave and master cylinders are now replaced, as a safe measure. I was fighting bleeding the system out but damn does it take forever..

I am thinking I’m very close but I feel as if the slave doesn’t move the arm as much as it did before? Maybe I am missing something as an adjustment, I know the pedal pusharm to the master cylinder and it’s fully extended. Not sure I’ll send an update next time I’m there.

Any tips on bleeding the clutch? Feel like I’m beating a dead horse lol
 

Clb

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You can gravity bleed it.
You can back bleed it from slave to master.
You can traditional bleed it.
You could pull it off and bench bleed it.
( this requires the entire lineset and both m.c. and slave be removed as an entire thing).
 

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