I don't remember, maybe 70-75
Traveller Smurf (Cubey's '89 van)
- Thread starter Cubey
- Start date
I don't remember, maybe 70-75
Update: the radiator bottom and cooler were toasty after a couple hours of driving on the highway. Dunno why it was so cold before.
I was driving in 17mph headwinds for hours today, from Page AZ to Flagstaff AZ.
Despite the steep grades and headwinds, and trying to keep a fairly reasonable speed (50-55 when possible) without running EGT to red line (kept around 800-1000°) the transmission gauge only ever got up around 200-205°. That's my best guess with the gauge sweep. Once I got on a little 50mph back road as a shortcut from US-89 to I-40, it got down around 165-170°. On i40 doing around 60-65mph, it was maybe 170°. So it's definitely getting cooled.
Water temp got to 210° a couple times on steep grades on US-89, but it drops fast once it's not under as much load, so the new water pump and all are working well for sure.
It was 90ish degrees for most of the way from Page to Flagstaff btw.
I'm hauling butt back to Arkansas to help my brother, cause mom has been badly sick, in and out of the hospital twice now. He was hemming and hawing about if he needed me there, then said no, then said yes. So, I hit the road this morning. At least It's only 95 in N Texas now, instead of 105. But still gonna be awful driving without AC once I'm in the humidity.
Gonna get a motel room somewhere in Texas for one night for sure along the way.
The 1957 Sears Allstate swamp cooler I bought for the bug was given a workout today, and it was pretty comfortable in the 90 degree heat of AZ today. Lucy and I both get a breeze from it.
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Eesh, it got close to 220 on the gauge yesterday, on i40. I was going 65 with OD on and noticed.
EGT and water were plenty cool still, no issues there.
So I turned off OD and slowed to 50-55. It takes a good 3-5 minutes before it starts going down but it did.
I was more careful with speed, but it did get a bit higher towards 220 again, on the east side of Albuquerque on I-40, even at 45mph where it adds a truck lane.
The transmission temperature is the weak link currently, assuming the test port temperature is accurate. I'm going to assume it is, since it's all I have to go by.
Maybe I should add a second aux cooler? Eventually I'd like a deep aluminum pan, I just can't afford it at this moment, since I'd also just replace the ATF for good measure.
EGT and water were plenty cool still, no issues there.
So I turned off OD and slowed to 50-55. It takes a good 3-5 minutes before it starts going down but it did.
I was more careful with speed, but it did get a bit higher towards 220 again, on the east side of Albuquerque on I-40, even at 45mph where it adds a truck lane.
The transmission temperature is the weak link currently, assuming the test port temperature is accurate. I'm going to assume it is, since it's all I have to go by.
Maybe I should add a second aux cooler? Eventually I'd like a deep aluminum pan, I just can't afford it at this moment, since I'd also just replace the ATF for good measure.
trackspeeder
Stone crusher.
The test port is accurate.
Save your money on the big aluminum pan. They are more show then anything else. Now the saving from that fancy pan and put it into a better cooler.
I would ditch the current aux cooler and replace it with a cooler from a 6.0. That cooler with the radiator should cover your cooling needs.
Save your money on the big aluminum pan. They are more show then anything else. Now the saving from that fancy pan and put it into a better cooler.
I would ditch the current aux cooler and replace it with a cooler from a 6.0. That cooler with the radiator should cover your cooling needs.
I dunno, I put a deep pan on the RV and I'm sure it probably helped.
In case you aren't aware, the factory A/C condenser is plumbed as the transmission cooler, done by a past owner.
So it already has a massive cooler, and even that isn't enough. Even on fairly flat highways of West Texas, where it's been 90-92 degrees, I had to stay at 55mph with OD off, to keep the transmission below 220.
Once the transmission gets past about 190, it has trouble keeping cool, and seems to only get hotter and hotter for the most part.
Engine cooling is fine, 190-200. And yes, the transmission appears to be plumbed into the radiator too, so it should be cooled from that. I don't know if it's going to the radiator first or the condenser-cooler, but I don't know if that would matter.
That's why I'm thinking about adding a second aux cooler, in addition to the condenser. It's simply not cooling well enough.
The huge RV with a C6 ran 195-210 with a deep pan and a decent sized Hayden cooler... so you'd think this thing would run cooler than that with E4OD and a condenser as a cooler... unless it's just not working as efficiently as a proper oil cooler?
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
That's what I'm starting to wonder.
It does pretty good with OD on, until it gets hot outside (85+) and I start hitting hills.
I was doing 65-70 this morning on I-40 from Moriarty NM to Santa Rosa, NM. I stopped for coffee and a donut at TA. Then got on US-84 SB to US-60 EB towards Clovis. And it was a lot of uphill on 84 so I had to switch off OD and slow down. For much of the rest of the day, OD was off and speed around 55 to keep it below 220.
Engine (water) was 200ish with OD off, EGT around 600 typically unless it's a big hill, then 800 at most, but more like 700-750.
I guess I overpaid for the 779 cooler for the RV with the AN connections, considering they were adapted to 3/8 hose and then reduced to 5/16" for c6 cooler hoses anyway.
The 679 has 3/8" barbs and is the same size cooler for 40% less cost.
$62 new or $55 for an Amazon warehouse "used - like new" one. I'll probably try used first and see if it's actually brand new but just returned, like my inverter and fridge were.
The highlighted one. That's basically just like the 779 I put on the RV, size and capacity wise.
I'll get some 3/8 to 5/16 brass barb reducers to adapt it to the E4OD line size too.
The 679 has 3/8" barbs and is the same size cooler for 40% less cost.
$62 new or $55 for an Amazon warehouse "used - like new" one. I'll probably try used first and see if it's actually brand new but just returned, like my inverter and fridge were.
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The highlighted one. That's basically just like the 779 I put on the RV, size and capacity wise.
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I'll get some 3/8 to 5/16 brass barb reducers to adapt it to the E4OD line size too.
Oh looking more, I might get one of these for a good $25 less. But it's a cheap unknown brand.... generic Chinese stuff. But it has good reviews that seem legit.
Already 5/16, a bigger cooler 15x10 instead of 11x11, and comes with hose and clamps.
The typical plastic push through mounts it comes with aren't great, but it looks like you can use diy brackets since it has holes along 2 edges.
Edit: I ordered that one, plus a return line kit (hose and all), SMP SK38 since it's cheap on Amazon, under $22. O'Reilly is proud of it, charging $64!!
I patched up a leaking return line hose months ago but now it's leaking again, so I need to just rip it all out and start fresh. Dunno if I'll get around to it while I'm in Arkansas or if I'll wait until I'm back in Arizona in late October. I'll just have to see. Regardless, I'll have it at the ready.
I'll definitely get the transmission cooler installed though. The only bad review for it is a woman who has a crappy mechanic who used the crappy clamps it comes with and didn't check for leaks, ruining her transmission. Simple enough: I'll buy higher quality clamps from a hardware store.
Already 5/16, a bigger cooler 15x10 instead of 11x11, and comes with hose and clamps.
The typical plastic push through mounts it comes with aren't great, but it looks like you can use diy brackets since it has holes along 2 edges.
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Edit: I ordered that one, plus a return line kit (hose and all), SMP SK38 since it's cheap on Amazon, under $22. O'Reilly is proud of it, charging $64!!
I patched up a leaking return line hose months ago but now it's leaking again, so I need to just rip it all out and start fresh. Dunno if I'll get around to it while I'm in Arkansas or if I'll wait until I'm back in Arizona in late October. I'll just have to see. Regardless, I'll have it at the ready.
I'll definitely get the transmission cooler installed though. The only bad review for it is a woman who has a crappy mechanic who used the crappy clamps it comes with and didn't check for leaks, ruining her transmission. Simple enough: I'll buy higher quality clamps from a hardware store.
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I wonder if your condensor cooler just won't flow fluid through it fast enough? Maybe it's partially plugged? I don't think that the transmission should be getting that hot while you're running empty. If it still does after adding the second cooler, maybe you could try bypassing the condensor.
Cant Write
Full Access Member
I would heed @trackspeeder ’s advice. I would NOT try and pinch pennies on a cooler for an automatic trans.....
Does the test port commonly run 10-20 degrees F hotter than the Pan?
I also agree with @IDIBRONCO about the volume or flow restriction within the condenser.
Restore the AC system, add some reflective tint to the windows (professional job) and put a proper 6.0 cooler on it.
My worthless and free thoughts of the moment.
Does the test port commonly run 10-20 degrees F hotter than the Pan?
I also agree with @IDIBRONCO about the volume or flow restriction within the condenser.
Restore the AC system, add some reflective tint to the windows (professional job) and put a proper 6.0 cooler on it.
My worthless and free thoughts of the moment.
It's not empty, and I'm pulling the bug .... but still. I was loaded heavier in the RV and had similar temperatures, except it cooled down faster.
I'm only about 450 miles from my destination, and I'm out of the mountains.. I'll just have to keep doing what I've been doing to keep the temperature down as best i can. if nothing else, i can pull over and let it cool off while idling.
I have the huge cooler ordered, so.... yeah. I'll bypass the condenser when installing it.
I'll probably go ahead and replace the crap ton of hose someone put on too, replacing some steel line along the transmission for god knows what reason. I still need to swap out the spin on filter too. I was scared to try changing it last winter when i was in the desert, just in case the new filter I got was wrong etc. but in town there it's fine.
lots of things to do on the van while i have a driveway to work in again. I'll probably leave it at my mom's house and take the bug to my brother's house while I'm staying there, and use that as my daily driver around town.
It lacks AC too, so it doesn't really matter, I'll be sweating to death no matter what I'm driving.
Also, the salvage yard i usually go to shows two 6.0s... 03 and 07 and an 03 7.3 PSD, so i might run out there one day and see if i can find a good cooler. Looks like it'll be about $37 with tax for a transmission cooler there. I'll have a 30 day return window for the Amazon one if i can something better
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asmith
Full Access Member
Interesting. I agree with the assessment that the condenser is just not a good cooler for transmission fluid for what ever reason. Going with a real transmission cooler as you are should help a lot. It surprises me that turning OD off cools it down as much as it does. I would think that OD really just puts more strain the motor on hills vs building up heat in the transmission, but I guess not.
Yeah, and looking on Amazon, I see big 30 row coolers for around $80... but I'll have to see what can fit behind the grill. The 3/4" one fit on the RV so it'll probably be about the same with this. I'll probably return that tube and fin one regardless, since I didn't realize it was not as good as stacked plate ones. Might just cancel it entirely right now and do a new order with something else.
I think because it increases the torque converter speed, which increases the pump speed, making the ATF flow faster for faster cooling. Even though it makes the water temperature go up about 8-10°
Cant Write
Full Access Member
Could that be partially blocked causing your restriction?
Doing a quick Google search, it looks like the 6.0 PS trans cooler is the “stacked manifold” type (wrong naming convention) and I hear those are harder to clean compared to the continuous tube type. So be careful buying used. I would hate to see you ruin your trans.
