Kdo58
Full Access Member
Install a alpine amp
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So what did you do with your truck today?
- Thread starter GOOSE
- Start date
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
What? I couldn't hear you. 
Made a ‘new’ engine harness and glow plug harness, installed a glow plug controller and Beru glow plugs.
Also installed a Moose pump. Runs good. Throttle is kinda stiffer but the return spring is much stronger, so that checks out.
Couldn’t get it started at first, and wait to start light wasn’t lighting up. Thought that was kinda weird. Then I decided to check the FSS for power. Nothing. No clicking. It was at that moment I realized, that I forgot to plug the engine harness back in, no power to glow plug relay or FSS, thus my issues. Plugged it in, then FSS would click and light would illuminate. Well, that was real smart haha. Pump was probably full of air, there was a little diesel in it, probably from testing, but after 2 cycles of cranking it fired off just fine, without even cracking the lines.
Went nicely, never ran into any difficulties or issues. Nice day here for doin that.
Starts much better now, runs a bit stronger too. I’m happy.
The Hypermax turbo and intercooler system doesn’t make removing injection lines or glow plugs any more difficult, engineers who look at things through a wrench turner’s eyes are the stuff. So nice.
Even changing the radiator, only have to loosen up one set of clamps and move the hot side pipe a little bit to get it done. The Hypermax kits are so well thought out. I like the power, and the quiet. A while back I cut the seam on the firewall where it was rubbing on the driver’s side up pipe, made a big difference. Intercooling made it even quieter for some reason.
I couldn’t be happier with their stuff. 10/10
Also installed a Moose pump. Runs good. Throttle is kinda stiffer but the return spring is much stronger, so that checks out.
Couldn’t get it started at first, and wait to start light wasn’t lighting up. Thought that was kinda weird. Then I decided to check the FSS for power. Nothing. No clicking. It was at that moment I realized, that I forgot to plug the engine harness back in, no power to glow plug relay or FSS, thus my issues. Plugged it in, then FSS would click and light would illuminate. Well, that was real smart haha. Pump was probably full of air, there was a little diesel in it, probably from testing, but after 2 cycles of cranking it fired off just fine, without even cracking the lines.
Went nicely, never ran into any difficulties or issues. Nice day here for doin that.
Starts much better now, runs a bit stronger too. I’m happy.
The Hypermax turbo and intercooler system doesn’t make removing injection lines or glow plugs any more difficult, engineers who look at things through a wrench turner’s eyes are the stuff. So nice.
Even changing the radiator, only have to loosen up one set of clamps and move the hot side pipe a little bit to get it done. The Hypermax kits are so well thought out. I like the power, and the quiet. A while back I cut the seam on the firewall where it was rubbing on the driver’s side up pipe, made a big difference. Intercooling made it even quieter for some reason.
I couldn’t be happier with their stuff. 10/10
Last edited:
rreegg
Full Access Member
Had to fix a little coolant leak before work today… only took like 90 mins to get on the road again though. No oil on the new starter but plenty of coolant haha. The hose o the passenger side that routes into the cabin had a split.
Have been meaning to coolant flush anyway and put in the precharged sca Napa stuff so will get on that soon. Had to add less than a gal or water to top things off.
Sucks to work weekends but taking mon and Tue off
Have been meaning to coolant flush anyway and put in the precharged sca Napa stuff so will get on that soon. Had to add less than a gal or water to top things off.
Sucks to work weekends but taking mon and Tue off
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I played with pump timing on my service truck, had it set to 6* yesterday, it was good but I decided to do some experimenting. Went to 9* this morning, I didn’t really like that, just seemed louder, not really any more power. So before I left this afternoon, I set it to 2* to see what that was like. I think I will put it back at 6*, probably wasn’t worth my time to mess with it.
Also before I left, I replaced my thermostat, it seemed like the old one was sticking shut on warm up and was getting worse. And guess what was in there. A thermostat that looked like it belonged in a Cummins. I boiled it with the new Motorcraft thermostat, the Motorcraft ones are supposed to be 193* I think but it began opening much sooner, looked like it was fully open at 193* maybe. The old one, however, didn’t begin to open until 205*! My truck hasn’t been running quite that hot, but there is a bypass thingy in the thermostat housing so I guess that helps some. Didn’t go full open until just a bit under 230* in the sauce pan full of water. Also it didn’t open very much at all, doesn’t seem like it had very much range of motion.
Either way, it’s much better now. Runs much cooler. And with the intercooler, EGTs are no longer an issue, and now I can drive while just glancing at the gauges every now and then, instead of staring at the EGT gauge and looking at the water temp gauge all the time. I can just… drive. And have enough power to move.
I am beginning to wonder if I should turn the pump up just a little, below 2200 rpm it seems to have maybe a bit more oomph, with less smoke, but above 2200 it doesn’t seem as punchy as the old pump. And this thing lives way above 2200 rpm. So… probably gonna play with timing and fueling tomorrow.
Also changed my oil before I left, was using Shell 5W-40 T6 synthetic, but decided to switch because it’s so thin and seems to burn easier than the Cenex Superlube TMS 15W-40 conventional I was using before. So I switched to Chevron Delo 400 XSP synthetic. I have heard good things about this oil in the IDIs, and how well it stays in the engine. I want to run a synthetic for the better heat capacity, turbos are hot…
Also before I left, I replaced my thermostat, it seemed like the old one was sticking shut on warm up and was getting worse. And guess what was in there. A thermostat that looked like it belonged in a Cummins. I boiled it with the new Motorcraft thermostat, the Motorcraft ones are supposed to be 193* I think but it began opening much sooner, looked like it was fully open at 193* maybe. The old one, however, didn’t begin to open until 205*! My truck hasn’t been running quite that hot, but there is a bypass thingy in the thermostat housing so I guess that helps some. Didn’t go full open until just a bit under 230* in the sauce pan full of water. Also it didn’t open very much at all, doesn’t seem like it had very much range of motion.
Either way, it’s much better now. Runs much cooler. And with the intercooler, EGTs are no longer an issue, and now I can drive while just glancing at the gauges every now and then, instead of staring at the EGT gauge and looking at the water temp gauge all the time. I can just… drive. And have enough power to move.
I am beginning to wonder if I should turn the pump up just a little, below 2200 rpm it seems to have maybe a bit more oomph, with less smoke, but above 2200 it doesn’t seem as punchy as the old pump. And this thing lives way above 2200 rpm. So… probably gonna play with timing and fueling tomorrow.
Also changed my oil before I left, was using Shell 5W-40 T6 synthetic, but decided to switch because it’s so thin and seems to burn easier than the Cenex Superlube TMS 15W-40 conventional I was using before. So I switched to Chevron Delo 400 XSP synthetic. I have heard good things about this oil in the IDIs, and how well it stays in the engine. I want to run a synthetic for the better heat capacity, turbos are hot…
divemaster5734
Full Access Member
Had to break down and pick up a air chisel 3/8" drive attachment to pull the C6 torque converter nuts off.
Wound up using a easy-off nut remover on the impact while spinning off with a long 3/4" end wrench.
Top view doesn't show the "best" one.
Heh, just a fun day of laying around in the grass.
That's OK, because I won.. neener neener freaking torque converter nuts.
A sticker on the transmission showed a rebuild somewhere in Kansas in 1996.
I bought it for a materials runner in 2014, had 175,000 miles.
Tried to give it away last year and no one wanted it, the 7.3 runs great but transmission was fried.
Retitled it as a motor home, rebuilt the C6 last year.
Is a U Haul 20' box on a '90 E350 long chassis.
Wound up using a easy-off nut remover on the impact while spinning off with a long 3/4" end wrench.
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Top view doesn't show the "best" one.
You must be registered for see images attach
Heh, just a fun day of laying around in the grass.
You must be registered for see images attach
That's OK, because I won.. neener neener freaking torque converter nuts.
A sticker on the transmission showed a rebuild somewhere in Kansas in 1996.
I bought it for a materials runner in 2014, had 175,000 miles.
Tried to give it away last year and no one wanted it, the 7.3 runs great but transmission was fried.
Retitled it as a motor home, rebuilt the C6 last year.
Is a U Haul 20' box on a '90 E350 long chassis.
The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
Where you're at, timing would be more like 2* increments, then 1* fine tuning. If she lives over 2200rpm then maybe 7-8* would actually do a little better, but you usually lose a little low end. If you didn't feel it losing low end torque at 9* then the sweet spot should be 7 or 8*.
How in the world did you get a saucepan to boil past 212*?!?
Awesome! That's a beautiful place to be...
I agree. Each pump is different, even from the same builder(cause DB2), and so they all have a "personality". I think you said you got the baby Moose pump? I don't remember. Whatever it is, do 3-4 flats to start and you can always take it down if it's too smoky. Timing will change with adjustment, that's the most annoying part to me, so I try to get fueling right as fast as possible. You can always use less skinny pedal!
interesting, hadn't heard about that oil. I definitely run synthetic now, though it does burn a bit easier.
I love it!
Well I did put coolant in with the water, old electric stove in the corner of the shop, but was mostly boiled away by 230*
I didn’t tell her about the coolant in the sauce pan, I just bought two new ones in town last night. One was identical I put that one back in the cabinet, the other was deeper so I put it in the shop
I didn’t tell her about the coolant in the sauce pan, I just bought two new ones in town last night. One was identical I put that one back in the cabinet, the other was deeper so I put it in the shop
Kdo58
Full Access Member
Installed hvac new control panel. When I had it apart I noticed ac ducting was coming apart, what a pain to fix.
What have you done to fix the trim? Replace or paint it?
What have you done to fix the trim? Replace or paint it?
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not sure how this photo will come out haha. I was recently diagnosed with ADHD, my entire life finally makes sense!!
But it explains why I haven't started on this project. What I've found is making all these lists really helps and keeps my ass moving.
It's pretty much an entire rebuild. I welcome any added suggestions to do while it's apart!
The engine has 104k on it, and I have to remove it to replace the rotted oil pan, should I do head gaskets while it's out or don't mess with what's not leaking?
But it explains why I haven't started on this project. What I've found is making all these lists really helps and keeps my ass moving.
It's pretty much an entire rebuild. I welcome any added suggestions to do while it's apart!
The engine has 104k on it, and I have to remove it to replace the rotted oil pan, should I do head gaskets while it's out or don't mess with what's not leaking?
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rreegg
Full Access Member
If it truly has 104k I personally wouldn’t bother with head gaskets but it could kind of go either way - since you’ll be there already it’s easier than needing to do it again. Pretty sure my ‘88 is coming up on 200k and am starting to consider it.
Very surprised ass isn’t censored too
Very surprised ass isn’t censored too
