Oil Leaking Down Filter

[Flyinb44]

Hello All,

New to the forum and IDI ownership as of late June. Drove my 91 F250 XLT Lariat cross country from Klamath Falls Oregon to Upstate NY. It was a great trip until we drove around Chicago and I felt like I was an extra on The Dukes of Hazzard. The morning after, I woke up to a basketball sized puddle of oil under the transfer case. The rock guard was on backwards when I picked it up so it collected the oil that was leaked from the engine. Since then, I've had a steady oil leak down the Oil Filter housing along with a few others that have developed and or gotten worse. I replaced the PCV valve behind the air cleaner without any change. The very minor (one lower bolt) leak on the passenger side valve cover has spread to all lower bolts. The oil pressure gauge is reading between N and O on Normal. I'm not taking this as a real reading and an oil pressure gauge is on order for a real reading. I dropped the oil filter and everything appears to be clean and in good working order. I sprayed some penetrating oil into the Oil Pressure Regulator assembly and stuck a pick in the hole of the sleeve and it moved with slight pressure. Nothing seemed seized. The gasket on the oil filter isn't deformed, just leaks. I also tried tightening up the filter more than it should need before removing it and it still leaked. I replaced it with a new filter and prepped the gasket with grease along with prepping the mating surface on the oil filter manifold with the same result. Obviously I have some minor oil leaks to chase down on the top side of the motor but the oil filter bothers me. I've read through the threads here and there is mention of the Oil Pressure Regulator, which is why I spun it while the oil filter was removed. The oil cooler assembly itself is dry along with all the attachment bolts. I welcome any and all suggestions. I'm fine with dropping the oil cooler but not sure what it will gain me at the moment. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[DaveBen]

Look at the top of the engine in back. Many have discovered leaks that run down the back of the engine/bell housing. Valve covers or the manifold might be places to start looking. Good Luck as these can be difficult to find. Oh and Welcome to Oil Burners! Fill out your signature with the information like the year, model, 2X4 or 4X4, transmission, etc. Go to your user name at the top right and choose Signature. This will stop everyone form asking what year (model, etc)?

 

[franklin2]

Another thing I have noticed on these diesels. You cannot hand tighten the oil filter like you normally do on other vehicles. On other vehicles if you hand tighten it 3/4-1 turn, you are good. On these you have to take the filter wrench(which I had to buy since this filter is larger than the others) and snug it up with the filter wrench pretty good to get it to be leak free.

 

[Flyinb44]

Thank you both. I’ll remove the air cleaner assy and see what I can see down the back side of the motor. It’s definitely oil pressure related because I can start the truck up in the garage, let it run for a few minutes, blip the throttle a few times and I get drips down the oil filter housing. The truck was dry as far as I could tell from OR to IL prior to that. Thanks again, I’ll update with findings

 

[Old Goat]

Could be as simple as the Valve Covers. maybe the gasket
is old and cracked.
VC`s been over tightened and bent so they do not
set flat against the head.

There is a triangle shaped washer under each VC Bolt. They
spread out the pressure from the bolt. Maybe they/some are
missing from prior VC R&R from the past, or some ham f i s t e d
brute cranking down to stop a leak.
If the Gaskets are shot, all the tightening won`t help.

I just replaced mine couple weeks back. Old gaskets were brittle
as a Potato Chip. Washers were bent etc...
Used a set of better covers, flattened the washers, sprayed out the bolt holes with Carb Cleaner, blew out with air, cleaned up the
Bolts on a wire wheel.
Wiped down the covers, new Gaskets and top of Heads with
Alcohol to get things as clean as I could.
Gave ea Bolt a dab of blue lock tite.
Did have to tighten down a bit couple times on couple of the
rear bolts to stop a leak.
That one Bolt on passenger side by the AC Box is a
to get too.

So far haven`t had problems with the Oil Filter. Wipe off the seat
it screws down onto, fill it with oil, oil the seal, tighten by hand
3/4 turn. never had a leak.
I have read some threads where guys have had a problem with
them leaking.

Note: You can use the FL-1995 Power Stroke filter, it`s longer
holds a bit more oil.
Won`t stop your leak though, just throwing it out there.

Also at the back of the Valley Pan, just behind the rubber hose
that fits into the VP from the CDR valve you replaced, is a
drain hole. Fuel leaks, water etc... will drain down the back of the engine...that is if it isn`t plugged up.
Just throwing this out there also.

EDIT: F i s t e d...is another dirty word that gets ***** out.


Goat

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I've had a steady oil leak down the Oil Filter housing

Is it from the filter itself in the gasket area or the oil cooler end cap (housing) that it mates to? If it's from above the oil filter, it may be an external leak from an oil cooler o ring.

The very minor (one lower bolt) leak on the passenger side valve cover has spread to all lower bolts.

The younger guy I work with had this issues on his 1993 F150. He was going to replace the valve cover gaskets, but he ended up tightening the bolts when he discovered that they were barely finger tight. It may not be your problem but it's worth looking at.

I'm not taking this as a real reading and an oil pressure gauge is on order for a real reading.

I've seen it said on here that electric gauges are your best bet. The vibrations of these engines seem to kill the feed lines for the mechanical gauges.

I replaced it with a new filter and prepped the gasket with grease along with prepping the mating surface on the oil filter manifold with the same result.

The first time that I saw an oil filter with the gasket "turned upside down) like all the ones that I've bought in the last 20+ years, I put it on like that. It didn't just leak, it poured oil out of that gasket. I turned it back "right side up" and it didn't leak anymore. They used to sell oil filters with the flat part of the gasket facing the sealing surface (upward when installed). All I've seen since shortly after that had the triangle part facing up when installed. Before I install one, I turn the gasket over so that the flat side faces up when installed. I'm sire that people will say that they haven't had any problems, but it's what I do and always will do because I don't have leaks that way. It may be worth looking into if you can't see any leaks coming from above the sealing gasket on your filter.

 

[Old Goat]

Interesting, good tip.


Goat

 

[Flyinb44]

Could be as simple as the Valve Covers. maybe the gasket
is old and cracked.
VC`s been over tightened and bent so they do not
set flat against the head.

There is a triangle shaped washer under each VC Bolt. They
spread out the pressure from the bolt. Maybe they/some are
missing from prior VC R&R from the past, or some ham f i s t e d
brute cranking down to stop a leak.
If the Gaskets are shot, all the tightening won`t help.

I just replaced mine couple weeks back. Old gaskets were brittle
as a Potato Chip. Washers were bent etc...
Used a set of better covers, flattened the washers, sprayed out the bolt holes with Carb Cleaner, blew out with air, cleaned up the
Bolts on a wire wheel.
Wiped down the covers, new Gaskets and top of Heads with
Alcohol to get things as clean as I could.
Gave ea Bolt a dab of blue lock tite.
Did have to tighten down a bit couple times on couple of the
rear bolts to stop a leak.
That one Bolt on passenger side by the AC Box is a
to get too.

So far haven`t had problems with the Oil Filter. Wipe off the seat
it screws down onto, fill it with oil, oil the seal, tighten by hand
3/4 turn. never had a leak.
I have read some threads where guys have had a problem with
them leaking.

Note: You can use the FL-1995 Power Stroke filter, it`s longer
holds a bit more oil.
Won`t stop your leak though, just throwing it out there.

Also at the back of the Valley Pan, just behind the rubber hose
that fits into the VP from the CDR valve you replaced, is a
drain hole. Fuel leaks, water etc... will drain down the back of the engine...that is if it isn`t plugged up.
Just throwing this out there also.

EDIT: F i s t e d...is another dirty word that gets ***** out.


Goat

Goat,

Thank you for the feedback. I actually tried to fit a 1995 and I don’t think I have the available angle to get it started without it interfering with the oil pan. I screwed with it for about 15 minutes and it wouldn’t thread on. I plan to check the valve cover gaskets tomorrow along with the drain hole in the valley pan. How does this drain hole not defeat the purpose of the CDR valve btw? I thought its purpose was to regulate crank case pressure.

 

[Flyinb44]

Is it from the filter itself in the gasket area or the oil cooler end cap (housing) that it mates to? If it's from above the oil filter, it may be an external leak from an oil cooler o ring.

The younger guy I work with had this issues on his 1993 F150. He was going to replace the valve cover gaskets, but he ended up tightening the bolts when he discovered that they were barely finger tight. It may not be your problem but it's worth looking at.

I've seen it said on here that electric gauges are your best bet. The vibrations of these engines seem to kill the feed lines for the mechanical gauges.

The first time that I saw an oil filter with the gasket "turned upside down) like all the ones that I've bought in the last 20+ years, I put it on like that. It didn't just leak, it poured oil out of that gasket. I turned it back "right side up" and it didn't leak anymore. They used to sell oil filters with the flat part of the gasket facing the sealing surface (upward when installed). All I've seen since shortly after that had the triangle part facing up when installed. Before I install one, I turn the gasket over so that the flat side faces up when installed. I'm sire that people will say that they haven't had any problems, but it's what I do and always will do because I don't have leaks that way. It may be worth looking into if you can't see any leaks coming from above the sealing gasket on your filter.

IDI,

Thank you for the feedback. The leak is actually coming from the oil filter. The housing is dry above the filter along with the bolts fixing it to the block. To your point about the gaskets, both the original and replacements both had the flat gasket surface towards the housing for a proper mating surface. I ordered electric gauges so looking forward to having some real data to work off of. I plan to double check the valve cover bolts tomorrow. Hope everyone’s enjoying their weekend!

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Ok I've read about people not checking this so I'll say it here: did you make SURE there isn't a second oil filter gasket up on the mating surface? Apparently it's possible. In this case, two isn't better than one.

Also the CDR is basically a big open port 99.99999% of the time. It only closes down (under some kind of condition that seems to be a debate topic over the years) to keep the engine from running away on crankcase gasses(if even then). Under normal operation it will send all the gasses and oil mist into the intake for the rest of it's life, so don't be worried by that.
However, if it somehow gets stuck closed, your engine will begin leaking oil out of every seal that it has, since the all the blowby getting past the piston rings has nowhere to go, so it pushes a seal out of the way and leaves.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I actually tried to fit a 1995 and I don’t think I have the available angle to get it started without it interfering with the oil pan. I screwed with it for about 15 minutes and it wouldn’t thread on.

I can't say anything about your truck. It is a TIGHT fit. I can see how it may not be possible to get one started. For example, maybe the motor mounts need to be replaced so the engine sits closer to the crossmember.

How does this drain hole not defeat the purpose of the CDR valve btw? I thought its purpose was to regulate crank case pressure.

Josh gave a good description so i won't try to continue on from there. What I will say is that the CDR works with a sealed engine. The intake gasket/valley pan keeps all of the crankcase gasses inside the engine. The drain hole lets the valley pan drain through a hole in the block and out the back side. The liquid then runs in front of the bellhousing on the transmission and down onto the starter. Questionable routing, I know, but that's the way it was designed.

Ok I've read about people not checking this so I'll say it here: did you make SURE there isn't a second oil filter gasket up on the mating surface? Apparently it's possible. In this case, two isn't better than one.

I have had that happen to me once. It was on my 1984 Mustang. It did make a big mess.

 

[Rdnck84_03]

@Flyinb44 on the FL-1995 filter, I had to slightly bend the brake line that runs along the back of the K-member up to achieve the correct angle to start the filter on both of my trucks.

James

 

[Flyinb44]

So I was able to get some time and put a wrench on the valve cover bolts. None were loose but I put another 1/8 to 1/4 turn on the bottoms of the valve cover that was leaking. I put another 1/4 turn on the oil filter after cleaning it up and it's still leaking. The oil cooler and bolts remain dry. The gauges show up tomorrow so hopefully I'll have a better idea of my oil pressure numbers later in the week. I didn't have time to get to the back of the motor from the top side. I did notice oil on the back of the oil pan though between the pan and the bell housing. I took the inspection cover for the fly wheel off and the front side closest to the engine is dry. I found that my inspection cover for the oil pump is also leaking but that should be an easy fix.

@Flyinb44 on the FL-1995 filter, I had to slightly bend the brake line that runs along the back of the K-member up to achieve the correct angle to start the filter on both of my trucks.

James

I did notice that the brake line was touching the filter but mine is a steel flex line and didn't appear to impede my ability to get a full range of motion. It was hitting the bottom of side of the oil pan though. I'll give it another shot next time I do the oil. Thank you

 

[Rdnck84_03]

I did notice that the brake line was touching the filter but mine is a steel flex line and didn't appear to impede my ability to get a full range of motion.

If you still have the factory line it should be a steel line inside of a shield that kinda looks like a spring.

I thought mine was hitting the oil pan until I realized that the brake line preventing the bottom to go forward far enough.

James

 

[Flyinb44]

Does anybody know what psi the Oil Pressure Relief valve assembly is calibrated to open at?