trackspeeder
Stone crusher.
Majority of the time you will know when the converter is slipping. You will get a shudder when the clutch locks.
E4OD Problems
- Thread starter Spark
- Start date
Spark
Registered User
That's another thing it doesn't do is kick down. I forgot to mention that. I've gotten it to kick down a gear two times by putting the pedal to the floor, but usually it still won't. I also meant to get the axle code to see what gears I have, but I forgot. I'll have to run and check that.
If I am cruising in 4th gear at around 2,000 rpm, and flip the switch, it will drop about 200 rpm if not 100. But if I am going along with any amount of throttle at 2,000 rpm and flip the switch, it darn near doesn't even change anything. Even if I am just cruising and I lock it it, I can raise the rpms like it's not even locked. If I do let off, I would say it falls back into a notch like you said.
I also have a 95 Powerstroke E4OD that I might possibly have freshened up, and if I have read right, I will just have to use my solenoid pack, and get an IDI torque converter. Only thing that really sucks is there is litteraly no known transmission builders or even shops around me. I also know of a hidden IDI with a ZF5, but all of my vehicles are hand shakers, and I was really looking forward to having one that I can just plop in D and go.
If I am cruising in 4th gear at around 2,000 rpm, and flip the switch, it will drop about 200 rpm if not 100. But if I am going along with any amount of throttle at 2,000 rpm and flip the switch, it darn near doesn't even change anything. Even if I am just cruising and I lock it it, I can raise the rpms like it's not even locked. If I do let off, I would say it falls back into a notch like you said.
I also have a 95 Powerstroke E4OD that I might possibly have freshened up, and if I have read right, I will just have to use my solenoid pack, and get an IDI torque converter. Only thing that really sucks is there is litteraly no known transmission builders or even shops around me. I also know of a hidden IDI with a ZF5, but all of my vehicles are hand shakers, and I was really looking forward to having one that I can just plop in D and go.
david85
Full Access Member
Strange. If your idle throttle setting is 1.2V, then that's already pretty high. You could try increasing it, but that may cause problems too.
Notch sounds like its a slipping converter clutch. The clutch piston cracks and allows fluid to leak, thus reducing the torque holding of the clutch. Its a known problem with that era of E4OD. This also fits with your description of the fluid condition. Sorry...probably not the news you were hoping for. On the upside, at least the turbine and impeller blades didn't explode. That also happens, and usually kills the rest of the transmission.
Swapping a solenoid pack isn't that difficult. It can be done in frame, or on the shop floor. As for finding a decent shop, I wish I could help but I feel your pain. Not much for shops in my neck of the woods either so I had to learn the overhaul myself.
Spark
Registered User
Yea I kind of expected the worst on this one. Really sucks being I way overpaid for the truck already (granted it is SPOTLESS and if you want that in this neck of the woods you're going to pay for it)
If I were to have the 95 trans done, is there any updates that would be good to have done? Or by that year are all the updated parts in it?
If I were to have the 95 trans done, is there any updates that would be good to have done? Or by that year are all the updated parts in it?
plywood
Recovered N/A
Does it slip in 3rd or 2nd with TC locked up? Could be that OD is slipping.
david85
Full Access Member
Trust me, fixing a transmission is way easier than fixing rust!
95 and up should have the minimum upgrades to make the E4OD reliable, but it may not have everything. It may not have the steel carrier planetaries, but unless you turbocharge or tow very heavy (or both), I would only worry about getting the overdrive steel upgrade. If you're not on a budget, then you can certainly go nuts and replace them all (overdrive, forward, and reverse).
One thing to consider though. If you are going to get a torque converter anyway, you could replace the one you have. You'd still be running a transmission of unknown history, but if the TC is all that's wrong, you can still have the truck fixed and running for a much lower cost. Best of all, you can do all the work yourself.
Spark
Registered User
I can get it to slip in any gear I lock it in on.
Ok that's what I thought. The truck isn't going to see a whole lot of heavy use, Its role is pretty much just a backup truck that I'm using until my 96 is done that I'm building. might haul my Bronco II or my camper every once in a while.
I might give it a shot putting a torque converter in just because no matter what I will need one whichever way I go. And I could have that in in a Saturday night.
David85, do you have any suggestions on what a good torque converter to go with? Is it worth it to go right to a triple disk? The truck still will be hauling stuff, just not 15,000 lbs over a mountain pass.
Ok that's what I thought. The truck isn't going to see a whole lot of heavy use, Its role is pretty much just a backup truck that I'm using until my 96 is done that I'm building. might haul my Bronco II or my camper every once in a while.
I might give it a shot putting a torque converter in just because no matter what I will need one whichever way I go. And I could have that in in a Saturday night.
David85, do you have any suggestions on what a good torque converter to go with? Is it worth it to go right to a triple disk? The truck still will be hauling stuff, just not 15,000 lbs over a mountain pass.
david85
Full Access Member
Its been a while since I was in the market for a torque converter so I'm not sure if things have changed, if at all.
I ended up getting one 3 hours away in Victoria, BC because I didn't feel like dealing with having a possible warranty claim across the border. I think the price was around $750CAD. Availability and selection are way better stateside though, so you should be able to do better. Conventional converters are generally half the cost of billet units.
Do you really need a billet cover, tri-disk converter? Unless you plan to turbo and tow heavy, probably not. The OEM converters of that vintage were crimped and stamped together, while aftermarket are either welded or brazed. So anything should hold up better than what you have now. Even a ford dealer supplied converter has updated internals.
The main thing to avoid is an original factory torque converter.
I ended up getting one 3 hours away in Victoria, BC because I didn't feel like dealing with having a possible warranty claim across the border. I think the price was around $750CAD. Availability and selection are way better stateside though, so you should be able to do better. Conventional converters are generally half the cost of billet units.
Do you really need a billet cover, tri-disk converter? Unless you plan to turbo and tow heavy, probably not. The OEM converters of that vintage were crimped and stamped together, while aftermarket are either welded or brazed. So anything should hold up better than what you have now. Even a ford dealer supplied converter has updated internals.
The main thing to avoid is an original factory torque converter.
Spark
Registered User
Alright well Ill start looking around and see what I can find. For now the truck rarely ever sees the highway anyways, so it is still useable to haul me around the way it is, its just annoying with the mushy, early shifts. Thanks a lot for your help!
Spark
Registered User
How does this converter look? It's a billet cover single disk with a lifetime warranty...
https://ktperformance.net/i-6685257...MIp5OY3b7E2QIVzrXACh0iFwUMEAQYASABEgL1MfD_BwE
https://ktperformance.net/i-6685257...MIp5OY3b7E2QIVzrXACh0iFwUMEAQYASABEgL1MfD_BwE
trackspeeder
Stone crusher.
The billet cover is good. But go with a multi disk. Two of the biggest issues with the stock E4OD is the cover and the clutch.
Stock stamped steel covers have a tendency to warp. This is why you want billet.
The single disk lock up clutch is good for 300, 302, or the 351. But when it comes to the 460 and 7.3, the clutch is to weak. To little friction material for the load. Multi disk will double or triple the friction material.
ReticulateSplines
Registered User
Drop a little bit of coin and replace the FIPL sensor (TPS).
It is cheaper and easier and has been stated that if it is of unknown age/mileage to just replace it. If you have a real fancy multimeter where you can capture then read the sweep on your FIPL then perhaps you are ok, but its such an easy task its worth doing. Sure glad I replaced mine.
It is cheaper and easier and has been stated that if it is of unknown age/mileage to just replace it. If you have a real fancy multimeter where you can capture then read the sweep on your FIPL then perhaps you are ok, but its such an easy task its worth doing. Sure glad I replaced mine.
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raydav
Full Access Member
9K#. I was foot on the floor pulling a hill, jawing with my wife, switched out of OD still foot on the floor. Trans down shifted and the converter tried to lock. Grey smoke, loss of forward motion, home on a flat bed.
Welded one converter-to-flexplate nut. Blued flex plate at converter mount holes. Melted snout off filter. Melted plastic drain back valve in pump.
I had paid for a triple disk billet converter. Had a converter shop open it; not the one I got it from. It was a single disk, with no friction materiel remaining.
If you are going to keep a truck, get a triple disk, billet converter and a metal drain back valve.
I ran LEDs into the cab from all the solenoids.
Welded one converter-to-flexplate nut. Blued flex plate at converter mount holes. Melted snout off filter. Melted plastic drain back valve in pump.
I had paid for a triple disk billet converter. Had a converter shop open it; not the one I got it from. It was a single disk, with no friction materiel remaining.
If you are going to keep a truck, get a triple disk, billet converter and a metal drain back valve.
I ran LEDs into the cab from all the solenoids.
Spark
Registered User
That doesn't sound good at all!
