E4OD Problems

[Spark]

Well now that I have my truck running good, I have a couple questions on the trans. First off, I seems to shift very fast through the gears. Even just rolling from a stop to make a turn it's in second gear before you're out of the turn, and third isn't far behind. I have checked and adjusted my FIPL sensor, and that reads right. Second, I thought my torque converter wasn't ever locking, so I rigged up a quick lock switch, and it turns out it was actually locking the entire time it was in 4th gear... but it's either slipping, or not locking all the way if that's possible. When you lock the converter in 4th gear, it only drops the RPM by about 200 if that. Then once it is locked it still raises RPM substantially if you give it throttle just as if it wasn't even locked. 55 MPH the truck is almost at 2000 RPM. Does it sound like the trans is going to have to be gone through soon? Thanks!

 

[Rossroams]

I can't give you any great advice, but my 87 F250, 6.9 4x4 with a ZF5 and 4:10 gear ratio is up near 1900-2100rpm at 55-60mph it was far worse when NA. I'm no expert on E4ODs though.

 

[gnathv]

On an IDI Normally if it slips, the overdrive light begins to flash because it goes into limp mode. I think it will read a 62 code. Transmission also gets hot pretty quick.

 

[Spark]

I have not seen the OD light at all. I'd have to pay a shop to see if there are any codes in the PCM

 

[tradergem]

Get a Ford OBD1 code reader. They are available at most parts stores.

 

[gnathv]

If you search you can find procedure to jumper plug and count light flashes for code. Should be easy to find.

 

[gnathv]

Also I would start with all the basics. Fluid full, color red and clear no burnt smell. All electric connections to transmission clean and tight. Double check tps voltage, I would even verify gear position sensor for peace of mind, clean vss in rear end and then begin to troubleshoot.
When my tc was slipping it got hot enough in 30 miles to blow the fluid out of vent on top of transmission.

 

[Spark]

Yea I didn't even think of getting one of the parts store code readers. The fluid is full, it's just a shade of darker red, smells burnt in my opinion. I just set the TPS last night and checked the voltages. Also cleaned the connections last night. I'll have to clean the VSS I didn't think of that. Would that mess up my spedo if it wasn't working correctly?

 

[gnathv]

Yes it will. They often pick up metallic wear from rear end and stop reading consistently. Normally can be cleaned.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Sure as hell will, also make the trans shifting screwed up.

 

[Spark]

The reason I asked is my spedo works perfect. Still a possibility that it could affect the shifting?

 

[plywood]

I tried wiring my Bronco II for OD lockup and it turned out the repair manual wiring diagram was wrong. If you're sure your locking the TC and not engaging OD and it's still slipping and the fluid smells burnt then it dosen't sound good. Can't remember for sure on yours if voltage to the TPS means that your power relay to the tranny is working but that's something to verify.

 

[david85]

What were your TPS (FILP) voltage settings for idle and full throttle?
Did the volt meter smoothly transition from one end to the other without any dead spots?

Any changes in tail lights or trailer brake wiring recently?

As others mentioned, an E4OD of this era can be very eager to enter limp mode if there is indeed a slip malfunction. If the controller commands lockup, and fails to see it within a limited amount of delay, it will get angry. Seems that is not happening so the mechanicals should be sound.

While cruising, there are two ways the controller will normally command the transmission to unlock, and stay unlocked:

1. If you let off the accelerator and let the truck coast

2. if you apply the brakes enough to turn on the brake lights (even if staying on the power)

If the transmission controller thinks the brakes are being applied, it will never allow lockup of the converter.


The other theory as that there could still be some other kind of fault, but without a limp mode, another clue is still missing.
The fact that you could not get the converter to lockup when hardwired makes me thing you may have wired it wrong, or there could be something else going on in there. Need more information to be sure what it could be.

 

[Spark]

For my TPS my voltages are 1.2 at idle with the cold idle off, and with idle at 750 RPM. At WOT i have 4.03 volts with a smooth transition.

As far as recent tail light or trailer wiring, I just bought the truck, but there is a round 7 plug wrapped around the bumper that looks like it may have been done recently. Should I just eliminate that?

As far as what I did for a quick lockup switch, I just ran the trans side of the purple/ yellow wire to a switch, and ground to another, and could hear the solenoid click when I flipped the switch. When I flip the switch the engine does drop RPM, but it is only 1-200 RPM and it feels nothing like a locked converter. If you give it throttle it still raises rpm like it's unlocked. Now I found with the switch locked, the truck drives exactly how it did in 4th gear before I did anything, the whole time it was in that gear. (Does that make sense?) but yet before the switch was added, you could let off, step on the break, anything, yet nothing would change. Also as mentioned, it shifts what I think is very early from 1-2 and 2-3, and shifts like mush.
Thanks for the help!

 

[david85]

If its 4.10 gears, the early shifting may be normal. As long as it kicks down when you need the extra power, then that may not be anything to worry about. My truck came from factory with a C6 4.10 combo and 1st gear was pretty much redundant. 3rd gear came along before 25 MPH (light acceleration).

The 100-200 RPM drop also sounds normal, but it depends on what RPM you're starting with, and where your converter stall speed is. If this 100-200 RPM drop is happening under gentle cruise conditions around 2000 RPM, then that also sounds normal. Now, if you can force the engine power past a thresh hold and cause the converter to slip, even when the lockup is hardwired on, then that would not be normal. What happens when you let off the power? Does the RPM seem to come back down and fall into a *notch*? Or does it keep the extra 100-200 RPM under cruise?

I reread your original post and it sounds like the converter could be slipping. If that is in fact the case, you'll see the dreaded code 62 appear eventually. Again, IF that is the case...the converter clutch could be going, or some of the control valves are sticking. Really hard to say for sure if it is indeed slipping without seeing it.