Can’t win for nothing electrical edition

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Waiting in a new turn signal switch and I’ll go from there

I would not waste money and time on an internal column turn-signal switch; I have actually had two to catch fire and burn off the wiring insulation.

That is when I got smart and did away with that mess and installed a big old Signal Stat external turn signal switch --- I love it.

These trucks use the 7-wire version.

The hazard flasher switch is a big heavy-duty switch made onto the Signal Stat such that turning the signal lever left or right cancels the hazards.

The turn signal remains on until you turn it off; none of this self-cancelling going on before you finish making a turn.

My original signal lever always felt like it was going to break off in my hand; not so this heavy-duty switch; it speaks quality and feels quality.

Instead of using two 2-prong flashers, this uses a single 3-prong flasher.

And, you can just keep stacking on the signal lights; this baby can handle it.

E-Bay is covered with generic Chinese copy-cat Signal Stat that I will attest are as good as the original as I have some in other trucks.

 

[Junkhead_1992]

Sounds like you might have a “fault to ground” electrical tends to back feed if all grounds are not in order

 

[Austin86250]

Sounds like you might have a “fault to ground” electrical tends to back feed if all grounds are not in order

I’m very happy you mentioned this my running lights (brown) has continuity with the frame

 

[Austin86250]

i removed a rouge ground wire that was touching the light switch and no more fault to ground now I got blinkers in all 4 corners!
I believe I burned up my light switch in this mess but oh well since no running lights

My question is why do the blinker wires loop back into another loom?
That was silly question it’s for the trailer lights lol

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I would not waste money and time on an internal column turn-signal switch; I have actually had two to catch fire and burn off the wiring insulation.

That is when I got smart and did away with that mess and installed a big old Signal Stat external turn signal switch --- I love it.

These trucks use the 7-wire version.

The hazard flasher switch is a big heavy-duty switch made onto the Signal Stat such that turning the signal lever left or right cancels the hazards.

The turn signal remains on until you turn it off; none of this self-cancelling going on before you finish making a turn.

My original signal lever always felt like it was going to break off in my hand; not so this heavy-duty switch; it speaks quality and feels quality.

Instead of using two 2-prong flashers, this uses a single 3-prong flasher.

And, you can just keep stacking on the signal lights; this baby can handle it.

E-Bay is covered with generic Chinese copy-cat Signal Stat that I will attest are as good as the original as I have some in other trucks.

That's a good idea. Especially seeing as how the cheap factory replacements don't seem to be lasting very long.

 

[KansasIDI]

That's a good idea. Especially seeing as how the cheap factory replacements don't seem to be lasting very long.

I always struggled to get the auto return to work with the replacement switches…

 

[Austin86250]

That's a good idea. Especially seeing as how the cheap factory replacements don't seem to be lasting very long.

I wish the little plastic latches where easily replacable and buy a 10 pack

 

[Austin86250]

I always struggled to get the auto return to work with the replacement switches…

That’s what’s happening right now

 

[KansasIDI]

That’s what’s happening right now

Well if you figure it out then please inform us lol

 

[IDIBRONCO]

That's a good idea. Especially seeing as how the cheap factory replacements don't seem to be lasting very long.

I always struggled to get the auto return to work with the replacement switches…

Well if you figure it out then please inform us lol

This is why I went ahead and ordered a Signal Stat last night. I'm sure that I'll have a nightmare figuring out how to wire it in.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

This is why I went ahead and ordered a Signal Stat last night. I'm sure that I'll have a nightmare figuring out how to wire it in.

You did get the 7-wire and not the 5-wire, right ?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Yes I did. I made sure that it said "7 wire" in the description.

 

[ISPKI]

Having completely rewired the rear harness on several of these trucks (albeit, only brick and OBS), I have found that the best thing you can do is bring the whole rear harness back to OEM. When these harnesses get hacked up you will tend to run into a wide range of issues that make troubleshooting extremely difficult. I usually go so far as to cut out the rear harness somewhere where its easy to access, usually in front of the rear tank somewhere. Cut the whole harness out, properly splice in new wires (not those chinsey crimp splice connectors, those are crap), and run fresh wires with fresh connections for everything, making sure to follow a schematic to the "T".

Its a little bit of work but you will have a solid electrical system by the end of it.

 

[ISPKI]

Heres a 2-1 ground split I did for some flatbed taillights. Adhesive lined 4:1 heat shrink tubing. I strip about an inch of shielding off the wire, overlap, fold over each other and then twist together. Shrink the tubing over it (preferably overlap a little more than in this picture). The wires cant unfold due to the squeeze of the tubing and the adhesive lining seals the ends of the connection from the elements. Might be beneficial depending on your area - my truck gets exposed to alot of ice and road salts frequently and those crimp connectors dont do a great job of keeping that out of the connections.

 

[tbowker]

Heres a 2-1 ground split I did for some flatbed taillights. Adhesive lined 4:1 heat shrink tubing. I strip about an inch of shielding off the wire, overlap, fold over each other and then twist together. Shrink the tubing over it (preferably overlap a little more than in this picture). The wires cant unfold due to the squeeze of the tubing and the adhesive lining seals the ends of the connection from the elements. Might be beneficial depending on your area - my truck gets exposed to alot of ice and road salts frequently and those crimp connectors dont do a great job of keeping that out of the connections.

I did similar to that when I wired in the new plug for a replacement FSV, except I felt compelled to over engineer it and soldered the connections prior to heat shrinking. I don't have snow and salt to contend with in that regard, but I am close enough to the coast that I have salt air instead.