The other day I was driving on some icy road, my truck is a 94 factory turbo with auto tranny btw, the rear of the truck spun on some ice, and immidiately after the spin my od light started blinking. Does anyone have any ideas as to what happened. Thanks.
A little help.
- Thread starter pointeca
- Start date
pafixitman
Registered User
Yep. I guess you want to know also? Sorry, I could not resist.
On top of the rear diff housing is a speed sensor used by your ABS and ... You guessed it, your E4OD tranny. My guess is when it spun the tranny did not get the readings it should have and went into limp mode. I would check the sensor (one nut holds the tab down). If you have a code reader you could pull the codes and double check.
On top of the rear diff housing is a speed sensor used by your ABS and ... You guessed it, your E4OD tranny. My guess is when it spun the tranny did not get the readings it should have and went into limp mode. I would check the sensor (one nut holds the tab down). If you have a code reader you could pull the codes and double check.
pafixitman
Registered User
Seeing how you are new, first welcome. Not sure how much you know about the E4OD, but on our truck it uses three sensors to recieve it's input. The before mentioned RABS sensor on the pumpkin, the FIPL and the tach sensor.
The TP (FIPL) sensor is incorporated to provide an electrical signal, which is proportional to the amount of fuel being delivered, as an input to the Transmission Electronic Control Assembly (TECA) Based on this information, the TP (FIPL) provides the proper shift scheduling and torque capacity.
Should a malfunction occur in the TP (FIPL) sensor circuit, the electrical signal sent to the TECA will be recognized as erroneous. When this out-of-specification signal is detected, the TECA will provide a high-capacity operating mode that protects the transmission from potential damage. This operating mode includes maximum TV pressure, resulting in harsh upshifts and engagements and a singular shift schedule regardless of accelerator pedal position, resulting in the 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4 shifts occurring at a speed commensurate with a heavy (but not wide open) throttle setting.
The Ford shop manual has a procedure to set the FIPL sensor. It's fairly long and required a special guage block and the use of the Super Star Tester ( early scan tool ). I decided that this was not what the "field" needed so I called the Ford Hotline and they gave me plain and simple voltage readings at closed throttle and WOT. MUCH easier.
Closed throttle voltage = 1.1V
WOT min 0f 3.8V not to exceed 4.3V
You definitely don't want 5V at WOT. PCM would read this as a short between Reference Voltage ( 5V ) and FIPL signal and go into failure mode.
The dead tach sender should/would send the automatic trans into a "failure management mode" (limp mode) with harsh engagements and firm shift feel, and an abnormal shift schedule. It has no effect on a manual trans only the Tach readings.
Replace the tach sender on the oil fill housing a big 1" nut with 2 wires. Ford only part Engine RPM sensor E5TZ-17B384-A about $50. You can remove and clean it but usually changed later too. You can test it too, hold it in the air away from ferrous metal, using an ohm meter lead on each wire you need DC resistance between 2000-3000 ohms.
The TP (FIPL) sensor is incorporated to provide an electrical signal, which is proportional to the amount of fuel being delivered, as an input to the Transmission Electronic Control Assembly (TECA) Based on this information, the TP (FIPL) provides the proper shift scheduling and torque capacity.
Should a malfunction occur in the TP (FIPL) sensor circuit, the electrical signal sent to the TECA will be recognized as erroneous. When this out-of-specification signal is detected, the TECA will provide a high-capacity operating mode that protects the transmission from potential damage. This operating mode includes maximum TV pressure, resulting in harsh upshifts and engagements and a singular shift schedule regardless of accelerator pedal position, resulting in the 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4 shifts occurring at a speed commensurate with a heavy (but not wide open) throttle setting.
The Ford shop manual has a procedure to set the FIPL sensor. It's fairly long and required a special guage block and the use of the Super Star Tester ( early scan tool ). I decided that this was not what the "field" needed so I called the Ford Hotline and they gave me plain and simple voltage readings at closed throttle and WOT. MUCH easier.
Closed throttle voltage = 1.1V
WOT min 0f 3.8V not to exceed 4.3V
You definitely don't want 5V at WOT. PCM would read this as a short between Reference Voltage ( 5V ) and FIPL signal and go into failure mode.
The dead tach sender should/would send the automatic trans into a "failure management mode" (limp mode) with harsh engagements and firm shift feel, and an abnormal shift schedule. It has no effect on a manual trans only the Tach readings.
Replace the tach sender on the oil fill housing a big 1" nut with 2 wires. Ford only part Engine RPM sensor E5TZ-17B384-A about $50. You can remove and clean it but usually changed later too. You can test it too, hold it in the air away from ferrous metal, using an ohm meter lead on each wire you need DC resistance between 2000-3000 ohms.
welcome to the site
cheap suggestion....
disconnect the batteries for 15 minutes and then recconect. the trouble code should have cleared out then. If it starts blinking again, you will need to do dianostic. Bear in mind, while the batteries are connected, the computer will record the same incident 5 times before kicking the light.
cheap suggestion....
disconnect the batteries for 15 minutes and then recconect. the trouble code should have cleared out then. If it starts blinking again, you will need to do dianostic. Bear in mind, while the batteries are connected, the computer will record the same incident 5 times before kicking the light.
Thanks for all the info guys, my od light was flashing a few months ago, put it on a tester and code came back as a bad fipl, replaced the fipl and set to specs. The od light stayed on for about a week after replacing the fipl, then just stopped flashing one morning.
That was about a month ago until this ice thing happened.
My tach, and speedometer aren't bouncing around, and all connections to the tranny have been cleaned.
I'm going to disconnect the batteries, and see what happens. Thanks again guys.
That was about a month ago until this ice thing happened.
My tach, and speedometer aren't bouncing around, and all connections to the tranny have been cleaned.
I'm going to disconnect the batteries, and see what happens. Thanks again guys.
Freight_Train
Traitor to the brotherhood
My guess is when the wheels bit down the transmission may have slipped and the trans didn't like it.I did plenty of "Wheel spin" in my 94 and never had a code pop up.....but then again,doing controlled donuts in a crew cab dually is a little different than a sudden free wheel spin on ice to a snatch and grab on pavement........but on a side note!!!!a CC dually slinging the ass end around is scarry(in a good way!) even when you mean to do it....Gotta SUCK to feel that sensation when you don't expect it.
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