Installing new Injection Pump and Injectors. Install new Hyd Lifters at same time?

Old Goat said:

I was looking at a lot of sites selling Hyd Lifters, prices are all over the
place....and majority are China made, but the sellers don`t mention it,
some on E-bay do though. These high performance Diesel sites sell at
a high price, and most likely same China made.

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Goat I used these Hylift Johnson US made ones in my truck and they were real nice quality. Price wasn’t too bad either. I bought them from this website

Thank You, I found a set of OEM Ford from a dealer in Holly, Michigan on E-Bay.
Set of 16 for $322, Tax 22.86 total $344.86. $75 knocked off the Retail.
Being sent USPS, hope they come before next month... as slow as they are.


I was looking at these made in Germany. Contacted the guy, and told me they would not fit my application. At the bottom of his listing shows a large list of engines it fits, including 6.9.
These even fit GM 6.2 and 6.5 and some others I think....OH well.



All these parts eventually get here I`ll dive in.

Been spending money like a drunkin Sailor this month.
Gotta let the Card cool off some and stop smokin.


Goat

Push Rods and Valve Cover Gaskets came today....Yeah.
Gettin closer. Lifters are to be here by Tues. So thinking maybe
Tomorrow to start taking this thing apart, then when the lifters
get here, throw this thing back together.
Amazing how simple this is going to be...in my mind.



Goat

Old Goat said:

Push Rods and Valve Cover Gaskets came today....Yeah.
Gettin closer. Lifters are to be here by Tues. So thinking maybe
Tomorrow to start taking this thing apart, then when the lifters
get here, throw this thing back together.
Amazing how simple this is going to be...in my mind.



Goat

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Make sure to soak the lifters in oil first. I soaked mine for over a month, a few days is probably all that’s necessary. You could probably also hold them under the oil and pump them up with a pushrod.

Lifters got here yesterday afternoon (Friday). That was fairly quick for
the USPS.

Thanks KansasIDI, will throw them in a bucket of oil.
So, today is rip the engine apart.

Yesterday was going to use my Feret Timing meter.
GRRR...why won`t this dang thing work???
Stupid 9V Battery was at 2.33 volts.
I head to town to pick up one, plus Iam at 545 miles on the
rear 38 Gal Tank. Figured 600 was the limit at what ever
MPG I figured a while back.
1/2 way down engine acts like it is running out of fuel, then
would sort of pick up etc....sucking air.
Fuel up and only put in 26.635 gallons. Figured out to
20.34 MPG by the GPS.
Move truck over to the Super market, and still acting up.
Open Hood and notice the Throttle cable plastic goodie came
off the bracket on the Intake manifold.
Hooking up the Turn Buckle to speed up the engine for the
Feret Meter must have bumped it loose, then driving it came off.

I want to check the timing where it is now, before digging into
things. Bought this with 192K now up to 352K, an who knows if
it was ever replaced?

Goat

Old Goat said:

That was fairly quick for
the USPS.

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That's no joke. They were almost as good as UPS for a few years there, but they've gone back downhill FAST! I ordered something from overseas (I know, I know) and it got here pretty fast. It went from Grand Prairie, TX to Wichita, KS which usually means one or two days at the most. NOPE! It then went to Dallas, TX. Now all I can see on the tracking is basically "on the way, running late". REALLY? NO S*&T?

Old Goat said:

Figured out to
20.34 MPG by the GPS.

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I wish I could make that claim. 16 mpg is best I get.

During this past winter the MPG dropped. Figured it to winter fuel.
Was hitting 16 - 18 MPG. I was surprised this tank was so good.
Also wrote it off to the old Pump and Injectors and Timing.

Today was tear into the engine compartment.
used one of my Wife`s Yogurt containers to soak the Lifters in oil.
Stood them in an up right position and covered in oil. Later in the
afternoon the oil level dropped some, so a bit thirsty.


I have taken these things apart at PNP, so have it figured out.
Pulled 8 IP`s with the hard Lines, little wiggling, and out they come.
That damn pump did not want to cooperate. The hard line to the last
Injector on the driver side kept catching the rubbery FW Insulation.
Looked like it was sagging some and wouldn`t clear. No problem just
cut it out with a razor blade knife. Dang that is some tough stuff to cut.
Needed to come out anyway, amazing the amount of dirt behind it in the
Fiberglass.
Still was hanging up, finally removed that hard line, and it wiggled out.
Not sure why PNP`s were so easy and my P O S was difficult.

Drivers side VC was a breeze, but the Pass side is another P I T A work
around. Actually 2 bolts are hard to get to. One behind the big bracket
the Filter and vacuum Pump hang off of. Easy just remove the it and the
Alternator, and more access to the engine.
But...that Bolt facing the AC Black box at the back..... now I have removed
4 sets of these at the yards. I don`t know what magical tool I had with me
then, that I cannot find today in my arsenal of tools.
Finally 9PM said S C R E W it, and headed to the house to get degreased.....

I got all the Intake manifold Bolts removed..."I Think", isn`t there one more hidden
at the rear?.......well dumars, ya got 2 spare engines in the shop to look at.
Some times in the middle of a project ya have to step back and reevaluate things.

I loosened up the Injectors one full turn, some were stiff to turn, and some easy.
Then sprayed Kroil so it could soak down around the threads. Hopefully they come
out w/o coming apart from carbon.

Be sure to use Zip lock bags to put nut and bolts into and ID where to go later.


Goat

Old Goat said:

But...that Bolt facing the AC Black box at the back..... now I have removed
4 sets of these at the yards. I don`t know what magical tool I had with me
then, that I cannot find today in my arsenal of tools.

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I like to use 1/4" drive tools with a universal swivel and an extension that's 6"-8" long.

This morning layin bed I was thinking, maybe the engine mount compressed
down over the years let the engine drop enough, it`s giving me the problem?

I didn`t try a 1/4"last night, but was looking for this HF Ratchet, has 2 swivel
heads. Tore the shop apart, "I know it here some where".

1/2 hr ago coming home from Church in the Mercedes...."I know where it is, the Trunk".
Pull over open it up ....there the damn thing is with some other tools.
Forgot I went to PNP a while back in the car.

I have also had good luck with this Wrench, they have improved on the slider
thing for forward/reverse as shown in the picture....to a lever like a big ratchet.
I have 4 of these, misplace one ,next time at HF pick up another. then find the first one
and so it goes. They are great Stocking Stuffers.

This little goodie is handy to have.


Goat

Old Goat said:

Gently with a thin putty Knife broke the VP seal. Water bubbled up around the
2 front Driver side GP`s....HMMMM that`s strange. Stuffed Paper towels in the
depressions of the GP`s.
The R/F and R/R GP`s had water bubble up around them.
Noticed when I leaned on the upper radiator Hose water appeared around the
right Front GP.

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Old Goat said:

This isn`t good, soooo Iam thinking I have 2 blown head Gaskets???

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This is perfectly normal. There's coolant passages in the heads that are sealed by the valley pan on 6.9s. They are plugged off on 7.3s. That's why you're seeing coolant when you lean on the upper radiator hose. You should drain the radiator before going any farther to prevent coolant getting inside your engine.

No where have I read to drain the coolant first.
I have read in the past about some passages the 6.9 has, that the 7.3
is plugged off.
I was in a panic, where is this coolant coming from??? It was dripping off
the rear of the engine onto the floor. Small drips at first, put a small container
to catch it and went to the house. Told my wife, "Iam scre-wed, now what"?
Went back out later to a big mess on the floor.

I was up toll 2:30am searching reading etc for an answer.
I found a link to this company in Port orchard, Wa, that makes all kinds of
gaskets. They make on for the valley pan. So giving them call when they
open at 8AM.

This is about the cheapest new VP I have seen

Will be doing an oil change when I get this back together.
I was impressed how clean (as a Diesel can be) it was when I pulled off the Valve Cover.


Goat

Here are a couple of pages from the instructions that came with my valley pan years ago. Sealing coolant ports with the valley pan plus sealant seems lame to me. The 7.3s head design is improved with cup plugs sealing those open ports . Those helper gaskets you found look like a good idea. At any rate I would be sure to surround those coolant ports with sealant. When I had my heads at the machine shop they machined those ports to accept pipe plugs.

Add the valley pan to your cart. I would bet it is NLA.