Installing new Injection Pump and Injectors. Install new Hyd Lifters at same time?

[Old Goat]

Thanks Tom.
I just got off the phone with Olson`s Gaskets in the link I posted above.
1-360--871-1207 talked to Richard, real nice guy. They are a small
business and make all type of obsolete gaskets, and ship around the
world.
One set is 4 paper gaskets, goes on each side so you can use your old VP.
$75 a set, Iam having him do an over night ship UPS.

Classic Diesel Design has the VP in stock.

OEM 7.3/6.9 IDI Intake Manifold Gasket/Valley Pan Gasket

Back in stock! Now available, made in USA new replacement valley pan gaskets featuring a solid bonded carbon steel frame, PTFE non-stick coating and the updated "factory turbo" baffling design. Get this gasket for only $100 with our 6.9/7.3 IDI Engine Reseal Kits NAVISTAR 1805389C3, 5389C2...

classicdieseldesigns.com

Goat

 

[Old Goat]

in my 1988 - 1993 Engine Service M
Says to
Rotate engine till timing mark (notch) on vibration
dampner is at 11: o`clock. 20 deg before verticle
puts all pistons below TDC so valves do not contact
pistons when tightening valve lever assy
(Rockers)

Will this throw off the Injection Pump install from
where I took it off. (timing)
Iam installing a new R&D one.
I know it goes on only one way.
Just don`t want to get it 180 off or what ever.

Diesel Engine Shop Service Repair Manual Fits 1988-1993 Ford Diesels 7.3 | eBay

1988 1992 1993 Ford 7.3 Diesel Engine. Manual Contents. Section 1:Mounting Engine on Stand. Section 5:Connecting Rods, Pistons & Rings. Section 4:Valve Train: Camshaft, Hydraulic Valve Lifters & Push Rods.

www.ebay.com

Goat

 

[IDIBRONCO]

No where have I read to drain the coolant first.
I have read in the past about some passages the 6.9 has, that the 7.3
is plugged off.

No surprise there. If you know beforehand, it makes perfect sense though.

At any rate I would be sure to surround those coolant ports with sealant.

You should be fine by doing this. You may not even need the sealant with a new valley pan. I don't recall the factory using any there, but it sure doesn't hurt to take extra precautions.

When I had my heads at the machine shop they machined those ports to accept pipe plugs.

That's a good idea. I'll bet that you can just drill them out by hand (maybe not?). I wonder what size plug they would take? I'm guessing 1/4" NPT.

Will this throw off the Injection Pump install from
where I took it off. (timing)

Nope. Not at all. The dowel will still have to be lined up with the slot in the pump drive piece.

Just don`t want to get it 180 off or what ever.

Impossible as long as you don't remove the IP gear housing. Of course, you'll want to get it timed afterward. Especially since you're installing a new IP.

 

[Old Goat]

Iam using the old pan, little rusty on top side, degrease it and throw on
some POR. The rear drain could be larger. Be a good idea to blow out
under the manifold at each oil change to stay on top of things.

Called Justin this afternoon just before he closed.
Asked him about what the shop manual says about setting the engine to
TDC etc,,,, to torque the New Rockers down. Said he doesn`t do it on his
engines, just to torque the to 20ft lbs. And won`t have a problem.

He said with my 6.9 NA to time it to 10 degrees, it is where they run the best..
And to throw on the pump as you mentioned Bronco, line up the timing marks
and take it adjust from there. I have the Feret meter and Nova Timing Light.

Got the old Rockers, Push Rods and Lifters out. washing up things with Wax
& Grease remover and a rag getting ready to throw this thing back together.

Thanks Bronco.


Goat

 

[IDIBRONCO]

He said with my 6.9 NA to time it to 10 degrees,

We felt like they ran better around there too.

 

[Old Goat]

Yesterday got the Gaskets for the Valley Pan from Olson`s.
Called on Monday and paid for next day delivery, got them
yesterday around 1pm by UPS. So next day & 1/2 delivery.
Well made, you get 4, one for each side.

Valley pan is rusty but not rusted through, scrubbed washed
de oil`d it, and threw on some POR. Should be dry and ready
to throw on.

Wire wheeled all the Brackets I removed (think 5) threw on some
POR, then one light coat of grey paint before dark. Today will give
them couple more.

Took the Manifold and that big cast iron thing at the bottom of the
big Fuel filter bracket to a local shop to have sand blasted.
Should be ready today.

Got the Lifters, Push Rods and 7.3 Rockers installed and torqued.
3 little bolts that secure the lifter keepers with the tin plate,
torque to 14 ft lbs.
Rockers torque to 20 ft lbs.

The bolts for the 6.9 and the 7.3 are different, so if you misplace
one they won`t work.
I was interested to see if there was a difference.

I thought getting the Rockers was going to be a p i t a to get on,
but was quite easy. Even the rear one`s laying across the engine.
The front drivers side was the problem child. Maybe the AC
Compressor was the problem, but the threads didn`t want to line
up.

Today get the VC`s cleaned and the new gaskets on, and bolted down.
All the old injectors came out. None had any blow by carbon build up.
So who ever replaced them last time did good they were well sealed.
Threads were rusty, they should have use some Anti-Seze.
Going to tape off the new Injector threads and top part and throw on
some grey paint to keep them from rusting.

Goat

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Maybe the AC
Compressor was the problem, but the threads didn`t want to line
up.

Sometimes, for some reason, the pivots seem to get stuck at a sideways angle. I've found that shaking the pair or tapping on the one that doesn't want to let the bolt line up will usually free it up so it's easier to start the bolt.

 

[Old Goat]

Sometimes, for some reason, the pivots seem to get stuck at a sideways angle. I've found that shaking the pair or tapping on the one that doesn't want to let the bolt line up will usually free it up so it's easier to start the bolt.

I even took the bolts out to see if they would screw into the Head.
You are right it was in a sideway angle, got one bolt to go in a thread or two,
then jimmy`d the thing around to line up. Then like magic, it went right together.

Today was more of clean up things, used the wire wheel on the bench grinder to clean
up the Manifold bolts. Had a lot of rust on them. Thinking to put Anti seez on the
smooth shaft of the Bolts, and lock tite the threads.

Put Masking tape around the threads and the top where the 2 "O" Rings are on the Injectors. Cut some small X`s on a box then shoved the end through the hole.
Painted the exposed bare metal so won`t have any rust.

The little triangle pieces for the Valve Covers and Bolts took a lot of time. laid out
the Triangles on a box and painted them both sides.

Have 4 sets of VC`s from PNP, and one set is close to new looking. Replacing the
battle worn one`s.
These are even new looking inside, not all oily and black.
Cleaned up the stickum they used for the gaskets, then wiped it down with alcohol.
Also wiped down the head with solvent, and then with Alcohol. Also wiped the new
Gaskets with Alcohol. Want to give it the best chance of no leaks.
Also added blue lock tite to the threads. ...We`ll see.

It was the Passenger side one bolt that gave me trouble getting that one bolt in
as it did getting it out. Be easier and less time to to just pull the engine for that
one bolt. Damn that thing is agrivating.
Dropped the dam`d thing 4 times. Finally lined up a bunch of bolts in the triangles
to save retrieving them, get them later...

While it was easy access, pulled the Glow Plugs been in there probably 5 years or so.
They were tight to unscrew even though I uses anti seez. The business ends all
looked good, but feeling the ends were warm from friction turning them.
I was thinking maybe a build up of carbon could cause that.
Did a Google search and nothing came up for these engines.

The Mercedes Diesel engines I have a reamer to cut through the carbon once in a while.
I notice they have them for the Duramax and the GM 6.2 etc...
The plugs I removed are the Motorcraft ZD-1. They always work.
Tomorrow going to connect to a battery to see how they Glow.
Ends all looked good, no swelling, and it is on a manual switch.

Goat

 

[Old Goat]

I cleaned out the GP holes with a 7/16" Drill bit and used a Tap Handle
to screw down into each hole. 5 were tight with carbon. With the Injectors
out, blew air down it`s hole which blew out the GP hole to blow out any debris.

Picked up a thread chaser kit from O`Really`s, wanted to chase the GP holes,
But there wasn`t a correct bit with the correct thread.
M10x1.0 as per this thread.

Need glow plug tap for restoring threads

Howdy, haven't posted in a good while. Got a 7.3 in the shop where previous excuse for a mechanic cross-threaded one of the glow plugs. Does anyone make a tap for chasing the threads in the glow plug hole? I'm sure I'm not the first poor soul to encounter this, but so far haven't found anything...

www.oilburners.net

Had a used Injector with me and asked the kid, ya got a thread chaser for one of these?
"What`s that"? "OH it`s a "Diesel Spark Plug".

Once the carbon was out the GP`s went right in. Be sure to throw on some Anti-Seiz.
I have the , Ford Rotunda OTC 6.9 7.3 Diesel Injector Nozzle Seat Cleaner T 83 T 9527 a 303 232 Reamed out each hole then threw in the copper washer and torqued the injectors.
I used a long thin Screw Driver, put the Copper washer on it, held it with my thumb,
Put the end down in the hole then let the washer slide down and the washer will be
where you want it.

Got the VP installed with the 4 gaskets, RTV the ends, install the drain plug, be sure to
install the hold down bracket and 4 bolts across the front before dropping the
Intake Manifold in place. I used a long tapered punch to line up the gaskets with the
VP and IM even though I used some stickem to hold them. Then the Bolts will go
right in.
As rusty as the bolts were taking them out. After wire wheeling them, put Anti-Seiz on the smooth part of the bolt and blue lock tite on the threads.
Be sure to install the engine lift hooks/eyes/rings.
I noticed the left rear 2 bolts didn`t go all the way down, maybe that rear hook goes
on that side? Oh well found another in my stash, wire wheeled it and painted it,
Throw it on tomorrow, and have 4 lift points.

Since I ripped out the crappie dirty FW insulation, spent good part of the afternoon
putting on some Dynamat. That was fun cutting the pieces, then laying across the
Engine and getting it on and rolled in. Was over 100deg today, so cutting it, getting
the paper off and getting sticky stuff on was fun.
If you use some Carb Cleaner and a rag, the lettering will come right off, then you
have just the shiny aluminum.

Picked up 6ft of Gates 3/16" hose for the return lines from O`Really`s. Dang pricy
stuff, over $3 a ft. But is what they Had.
I need the Olive for the fuel return tube from the IP to the rear connection. I cut the
tube short, going to run hose from IP back where the tube becomes straight. Then
use Rubber 3/8" hose off the pump.
There is a square block on the pump for a 3/4" wrench to move the pump, and the
Tube is in the way.
Stopped at the local Diesel Shop for an Olive, but was out. Guy did a search and
O`Really`s has them. Dorman 904-497 for $29, yikes. only one size for this tube,
and next size down and 4 that go to what ever.
Was out at the Hyd Shop to get an O Ring for the IP inlet fitting (did the push lock
rubber hose mod, Filter to IP) removed the fitting and figured the O Ring would leak changing pumps. $0.50
Hyd shop doesn`t carry the Olives, said Hydraulics and Automotive is different.

How does the cold fast idle Solenoid come off the bracket?
I want to clean it up before swapping to the new pump.
Don`t see a nut, is it press fit on?


Goat

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I don't know if it comes off of the bracket. I've never seen one off.

 

[Rdnck84_03]

I believe it is spot welded to the bracket.

James

 

[Old Goat]

I was searching on Google, E-Bay etc.... By the price`s of them (used)
they must be gold plated under the dirt and grime.
New one`s don`t seem to be available, don`t need one, just wanted to
clean up mine.
Cheaper to go to PNP and buy a whole IP, than buy a solenoid off E-Bay.


Goat

 

[Old Goat]

Finally went out the shop around 10am after searching the whole world wide webb
Got the GP Harness on, dang this thing is in bad shape, better buy a new upgraded
one I see offered, classic Diesel and one other guy.
2nd one back on the Pass side, one side of the metal clip broke off.
They don`t give ya much wire on the harness to work with.
Cut off the connector, then looking through my plastic cases with compartments, (Have 3 with the electrical stuff) only connector that would work is for a 10G wire.
Squeezed down the sides, and it will fit on sort of tight and work.
Then squeeze down the wire end to fit 14 or what ever wire I used.
Put some Flux on it and soldered it, and heat Shrink`d it.
Then the connector end, tinned the wire got the connector on, and the dang thing
took solder...yeah. then heat shrink.
OK that wire is 3" longer than it was but better than it was, and blew an hr N half.

Since I bought the Pump and Injectors Feb 2018 (Hey don`t want to rush things)
pulled off the old "O" Rings and replaced them, and got the return lines back on.

I bought a new hose and grommet for the CDR Valve, and it`s in a place where I
will be able to locate it easely...yeah right. Cleaned up the old one, it`s OOOK, still
pliable etc... but why not install a new one while it is apart.
When Iam all done it will be waving to me "Hey stupid, Iam right here".

Started to put the IP fuel lines on the pump, and this big Thundestorm blew through,
out went the lights, sounded like an "A" Bomb went off over the shop. Headed for the house as 50 cent size rain drops and hail mix came down.......ok Iam done.

At least it cooled things down, was 104.

Goat