Project Stress Test

[IDIBRONCO]

And then there's the "it might be a Chevy 6.2/6.5 pump that's supposed to rotate the other way" issue.

Nope. It can't be. Ours have a circular mounting plate while those have a triangular one.

 

[Jesus Freak]

Nope. It can't be. Ours have a circular mounting plate while those have a triangular one.

He coulda put it on with self tapping screws. The whole car is one big modification.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

He coulda put it on with self tapping screws. The whole car is one big modification.

 

[hacked89]

Even though it’s behaving like 180 out here’s my logic why it’s not. Adding some simple background for people getting into engines too.

It’s a four stroke engine.

1. Intake stroke
   The piston moves down the cylinder, opening the inlet valve and drawing in a fuel and air mixture.
2. Compression stroke
   The piston moves up the cylinder, closing the inlet valve and compressing the fuel and air mixture. Just before the piston reaches the top of its compression stroke
3. Power stroke
   The combustion of the fuel and air mixture creates pressure that forces the piston back down the cylinder.
4. Exhaust stroke
   The piston moves back up the cylinder, opening the exhaust valve and expelling the exhaust gases. The piston also applies oil during this stroke.

On an IDI, the harmonic balancer is key’d and the IP shaft is key’d. The IP gear also has a dowel. Yes there's a notch on the ip drive shaft. Cylinders 1 and 4 are companion so everytime the harmonic balancer line is at zero degrees (the first shorter nub on the timing plate) they are are TDC. If it's at TDC and the alignment dowel is at 11 o'clock it's exhaust stroke if it's at 4pm it's compression. (Unless it’s 180 out). The way you know this is to pull the passenger valve cover. The IP cover and watch the first cylinders rockers. You’ll see exhaust valve open and then close as the balancer line comes up to the TDC 0 degree mark infront of the timing plate nub. The IP dowel should be at 11 o’clock. Keep rotating and you’ll see the intake rocker open and close. Then you’re coming back up to the 0 degree on the balancer. The dowel should now by at 4pm. If that is backwards then you’re 180 out.

This is the “5 minute” way to orient an IDI and find TDC.

Some pics, I was considering writing up a quick tech article in the winter.

Here you can see the exhaust valve open as it’s coming up to 11pm and TDC

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[Jesus Freak]

That's legit. My brain is too tired to think through your logic. Carry on, sir.

 

[hacked89]

It’s fixed - I did a bunch of things at once though so I can’t tell you which it was.

 

[tbowker]

It’s fixed - I did a bunch of things at once though so I can’t tell you which it was.

So break it again and start over. You can't leave us hanging like this.

 

[Nero]

I bet it was because the fuel pump gear was on backwards and spinning the wrong way

 

[hacked89]

here’s what I did:
1. Changed return setup (I ran the pump return to a bucket but made no difference)
2. Ran it on a heavy hot shots blend
3. Jumped the cold advance and fuel shutoff solenoid
4. Ran it longer and gave it the American ring seating
5. Noticed the idle screw was backed out (this wasn’t the issue because even if I tried to increase throttle to idle it, it would chug white smoke)

I did test step by step. The step that it cleared up almost 100% was during the time I jumped the cold advance and FSS.
After I ran it some and un jumped it, it was still fine.

If I was to guess maybe metering valve sticking and the hot shots cleared it? Solenoid jump convenient timing?

 

[Nero]

Something something remember my pump was doing goofy things at first, but the more I drove it the better it got? So far the violent shaking I was getting when the fast idle/cold advance would turn off has completely gone away after about 4 cold starts.

I still have white smoky starts, but thats injector bleed down overnight soooo...

I'm willing to bet the fuel cleaner is what did it. I suggest keep spiking it for a little while.

 

[hacked89]

Something something remember my pump was doing goofy things at first, but the more I drove it the better it got? So far the violent shaking I was getting when the fast idle/cold advance would turn off has completely gone away after about 4 cold starts.

I still have white smoky starts, but thats injector bleed down overnight soooo...

I'm willing to bet the fuel cleaner is what did it. I suggest keep spiking it for a little while.

Yep I hear you and remember, this is also a brand new R&D pump and injectors. I’ve had maybe four R&D pumps, this was the first one I had in the box for a couple months before running it because I was fabricating. Maybe something was just sticking with the metering valve.

Audio doesn’t do it justice how nasty this engine sounds with zoomies.

 

[hacked89]

I definitely recommend removing your windshield, it allows you to have the timing unit right in the vehicle

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[Nero]

Mine sat for about a month before I installed my pump, kind of hard to put a pump on when the heads aren't on....

 

[hacked89]

Mine sat for about a month before I installed my pump, kind of hard to put a pump on when the heads aren't on....

Interesting

 

[hacked89]

I haven’t had an IP apart yet, I need to do that soon. But I was messaging with Justin and he explained to me how activating the cold advance opens the regulators check valve / drops all housing pressure. If the check valve gets stuck it won’t let housing volume out so it would affect the backside of the plungers. Aka like if you’re return is blocked. One of the troubleshooting steps I ran the ip return to a bucket and no difference so I figured wasn’t that and then when I jumped the cold advanced and things started to work I didn’t know what I didn’t know besides either coincidence or something unstuck.

@tbowker happy?