New IP

Snowturtle

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I would go one or two, going one at a time. If that doesn't make much of a difference, then I would try advancing the timing. My thoughts on going that way are that if you go more than two flats, you might not have enough fuel and would end up setting yourself back while still getting too much smoke.
Thanks, I'll try it tomorrow!
 

The_Josh_Bear

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I bought all my I intercooler pipes and intercooler from ebay, way cheaper, I have a 6.9 so no one has a bolt in system.
I did the same and I think I was out the door about $400 but it's not a bolt-in setup. You gotta plan and tinker and cut down the generic charge tubes and fab mounts for the cooler yourself, etc. Nothing is rocket science but it's some work.

Also I went with 3", I'd definitely suggest 2.5" tubing instead. It's really tight around the fan and radiator with 3" and if you have A/C even less room. Cutting the radiator support with a sawzall is mandatory as well, unless you want to double the length of your charge pipes.
 

Snowturtle

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Follow up:
I spoke to the guys at Classic Diesel Design, where I bought my IP, and they discouraged me from messing with the fuel screw. I had actually started the process but couldn't get the screw to turn, so I called them. I bought the 90cc upgraded pump and they said that their pumps are designed for specific fuel settings and they put them where they need to be. Good enough for me! So I moved on to advancing the timing. And, per CDD's recommendation, I disconnected and plugged the wastegate vacuum line. The wastegate still operates but is just controlled by the spring now. They said that would let me spool up quicker and clear the hot exhaust gasses quicker as well as increase my boost a bit. Doing those things helped - I am able to manage my egt's better and I have more power with my 10-11 psi boost (up from 6-7).
 

Snowturtle

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Glad to hear that you're happy with it now.
Almost happy. I was going to start a new post but maybe you have an answer for me. When I am cruising along at under 2000 rpm with little power input, the truck starts to chug and hop like a kid learning to drive a stick shift! As soon as I add some throttle, it clears right up, usually with a little extra black smoke. It purrs when it's accelerating or operating above 2000 rpm. It starts right up with no white smoke and I don't have any wet spots so I don't think I have any air infiltration. What am I missing? Where do I start to look for issues? I tried reconnecting the waste gate and that was not the issue. Everything is new - IP, injectors, fuel filter, lift pump, return lines and caps - but all installed by me, so no guarantee that something wasn't done right. Any suggestions?
 

Nero

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Does it do it all the time, or just when its cold and warming up?
 

Nero

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Disconnect the timing advance solenoid, and spike the fuel tank with a bottle of power service, see if it helps at all.
 

MtnHaul

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I wonder if the new lift pump is faulty in some way? Does this happen with both front and rear tanks? Does the FuelFilter light come on when this happens? Does it happen with a full tank as well as near empty?
 

Snowturtle

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Does it on both tanks, all levels of fuel. No filter light (but I can't guarantee that it works...)

Where is the timing advance solenoid? I don't know about that. Was it something I should have disconnected when I was setting yhe timing? I'll get some PS

Thanks for the help trying to figure this out!
 

Nero

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Can I test fuel pressure at the filter to confirm or rule out fuel supply issues?
Yes you can. Should be 5-7psi across all engine speeds.

The timing actuator connector is the electrical connector on the rear side of the injection pump. If your truck won't start you unhooked the wrong connector.
 

Snowturtle

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Yes you can. Should be 5-7psi across all engine speeds.

The timing actuator connector is the electrical connector on the rear side of the injection pump. If your truck won't start you unhooked the wrong connector.
Thanks!

Where do I check fuel pressure? Can I just do it through the schrader valve?
 

Nero

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Thanks!

Where do I check fuel pressure? Can I just do it through the schrader valve?
Yes you can, youx can either use a test fitting, or take the Schrader off and thread a gauge straight into it.
 
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