New Injection Pump wont idle down with adj screw backed out, idle 860 RPM

[Old Goat]

I have my new R&D Injection Pump installed, and set to 10 deg.
It`s a 86 6.9 NA engine.
I have backed off the Idle adjustment screw all the way and it idles high.
Set timing with the Ferret and Inductive timing light. Shows 860 RPM`s.

Engine runs good, but accelerating throws out super black smoke, way
more that the old Pump and Injectors.

It definitely runs better so far than with the old parts.

Doing some reading, the fuel screw behind the Triangle plate on the Pass
side of the pump, if I turn it back one flat, will that idle it down?
That would cut the fuel down.

With the the old pump, there was no problem with idling it down with the
idle adj screw.


Goat

 

[hacked89]

Why 10 degrees? Give Justin a call today.

 

[Nero]

Justin has always said set timing at 7.5, so I second, why 10?

 

[ihc1470]

Disconnect the linkage at the pump will it idle down then? Will give you an idea if it is external or internal problem.

 

[Clb]

2 separate issues here.
First idle rpm
+1 on cable adj.
Anything else attached to the throttle arm?
Internal calibration could be something here.
I've never tried to idle one down but how low is the port timing set inside? (Anyone?)
+1 on call builder


Black exhaust
Timing
Internal calibration
Airflow
Are you possibly lugging this fresh new stronger pump.
Again
Call builder.

 

[Old Goat]

I did call Justin at R&D IDI Performance.
On another issue, and in that conversation told him I was close to
installing the IP.
He said to set the timing at 10deg, that is where the 6.9 like it.
Or run best.

Called him Friday told him I got the IP installed, and on 3rd 30sec
turn over, she came to life like a roaring Lyon. WOW this is a whole
different engine. Spend the afternoon tightening lines to stop the
fuel leaks at the IP.
Have this Snap-on FRX-201 Socket to get to the IP Nuts. Be better
to be a 12 pt than a 6.
Did need to grind the bottom down and back some to level it to clear
the hard line, and grind the back end to make it longer inside.

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Hacked89 saw your post on using a 5/8" Flair Nut socket...mine are the
thick fat china made ones, need to locate a thinner one.
Anything to make it easier to get to the lower nuts.

How to Adjust Injection Pump Side Lines Without Removing Other Lines

This is simple but time saving. Let’s say you have a leak or need to remove a single line from the injection pump and you don’t want to have to undo everything or other lines. Take a 3/8 ratchet and 2.5-3” extension. Then a 5/8 crow foot and grind the sides down parallel. Remove the feed line...

www.oilburners.net

The Throttle cable is not holding it from coming all the way back, with
the adjuster screw backed all the way out, lever sits on the cold advance
Solenoid rod. Even with cable disconnected same thing.

This is a new OEM Ford cable.

I did call Justin Tues, but was asking how he turn the Pump to adjust
it as this one doesn`t have the little block in front for a 3/4" open end.
He said some pump come either way, he uses a prybar between the
Intake manifold and Pump.
Again he said to time at 10 deg....being NA.

Iam using the Ferret timing thingy and Nova Timing Light.
Pretty slick way to time the engine, following vid at 5:00 shows where
to place the wrench.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

I`ll give Justin a call and see what he says.

Clb... not sure what Port Timing is,


Goat

 

[Clb]

Inside of the pump
Read as
Pop timming
The internal mechanism for the issuance of the fuel charge.
I wonder how low it's baseline is?

 

[miked]

You may have to back off the cold start solenoid rod till it does not touch.
Engine needs to be warm or disconnect the power from the solenoid

 

[Clb]

Ooooooh
Yesss
Good catch

I got curious

Idle speed???

https://www.oilburners.net/threads/new-injection-pump-wont-idle-down-with-adj-screw-backed-out-idle-860-rpm.93579/ Got me to thinking How low is possible for the 6.9 to idle For the 7.3 to idle Let's go for "all the way down " Then let's address DRIVEABILITY. Time to learn a thing or 2

www.oilburners.net

 

[IDIBRONCO]

with
the adjuster screw backed all the way out, lever sits on the cold advance
Solenoid rod.

You may have to back off the cold start solenoid rod till it does not touch.

This is definitely your idle problem. There's supposed to be a space between the rod and the lever. Either adjust the rod back in with a 1/4" open end wrench or loosen the two mounting bolts (7/16" heads) and rotate the top of the solenoid toward the front of the truck. I would rotate the solenoid first. The other is more of a fine adjustment. After the first time I had this happen, I would always rotate the solenoid as far as I could when installing a new IP. Sometimes the rod adjustment isn't enough. It will idle fine on a hot idle, but the cold idle will still be too high.

 

[Old Goat]

Thanks IDIBRONCO, talked to Justin this afternoon, he mentioned the same thing.
Also, said there is an internal rod that is an adjustment that is set
when the pump is on the machine when it is being set up. It screw`s
in or something like that.
Also could turn the screw behind the triangle plate back one flat.
Aske what elevation Iam at, (5260) and that could have some effect
on the smoke.

I bought this pump back in 02/2018, been out in the shop in the metal
cabinet away from mice/rats and dirt.
He did say that was when he had a shop doing his rebuilds before he started
doing it in house. I have been to his shop, and he has the whole set up for
doing IP and Injectors in house.

Goat

 

[Old Goat]

Backed the cold start solenoid rod as far as it would go.
Didn`t change anything.

Next thing is maybe turn the screw back one flat behind
the triangle plate.
Looking at where the plate is, and fuel filter and other stuff
in the way, looks like easier to just remove pump, adjust it
and then throw it together, get it started, and time the pump.


Goat

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Looking at where the plate is, and fuel filter and other stuff
in the way, looks like easier to just remove pump, adjust it
and then throw it together, get it started, and time the pump.

No it's not. It is a tight fit, but you can slide a box end wrench in from the back side (toward the cab) and loosen the bolts. You can also disconnect the cables and then remove mounting bracket (on the intake manifold) to gain some more room.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

No it's not. It is a tight fit, but you can slide a box end wrench in from the back side (toward the cab) and loosen the bolts. You can also disconnect the cables and then remove mounting bracket (on the intake manifold) to gain some more room.

I forgot to add that you can remove the return springs that attach to the same spot as the throttle cable does. If you just unhook that end, you can let them hang down from where they connect to the bottom of the solenoid bracket.

 

[Old Goat]

Had a funeral Friday, then the memorial at the Church Saturday, then
Church Sunday. So no way way working on a hot engine since close to 100Deg.
Got to it yesterday.
Pulled the oil fill tube then hand cranked the engine over to line up the Injection
Pump locating pin at 12:00. Then the little Allen bolt behind the Triangle plate will
be lined up.
1/4" socket for the Triangle plate and a 5/32" Allen wrench for the adjustment.
Remove top Bolt, loosen bottom one and let plate hang on it.

Fair amount of fuel will run out of the Pump once the plate is loosened.
Be sure to stuff some rags under the Pump to soak the fuel, as it will run down
the Valley Pan, through the drain, down the back side of the engine and all over
the floor. I caught most of it.
If your VP has not been kept clean since the truck came down the assembly line,
chances are the drain plug is plugged up.

Used a mirror on a stick to see the dinky little Allen Bolt and a couple small
Flashlights. Have a couple you strap to your head, took it off the strap, and is
small and bright and can get down into that tight space to see inside the IP.

Used a 6" Vice Grip clamped to the Allen Wrench to turn it. Tight little bolt.
Turned it 1 1/2 - 2 turns...I think.
Then put it all back together.

I did remove the wire harness to the Pump, & the Throttle Cable for better
access.

I thought with the amount of fuel that ran out of the Pump, I would have a
starting, issue, but she started right up. But I do have a Hand primer pump,
Pumped it till it got hard to push, maybe that helped? Did some fuel drain
from the Filter and I topped it off? IDK.
Seemed like the Idle was lower. Took her or a run, but after being fully warmed
up, the high idle was back, and still blowing black.

Today Iam going to turn it one more flat and see if that helps.
She still pulls good and sounds great. Maybe this Pump is set up for a Turbo?
IDK or what I ordered back in 2018.

______________________

Spent next couple hours d i c k i n around getting the Fuel line Clamps secured,
whada P I T A gettin them on, need a 5 yr old with little hands.
Had them held tight with some 6" needle nose VG clamped to the rubber goodies.
The 2 rear lines (on ea side) I cut off the rubber to cover 2 lines, and used two
clamps to cover 3 lines towards the front, and use some longer 1/4" bolts to clamp
them.

I was looking around on E-bay, and a ton of the chicom new fuel lines listed.
I was looking for new hard line clamps.
New lines with clamps are around $40.
4 new clamps are sold for around $40.
So I just ordered a set of new Hard lines.
I read they don`t fit right, well see.

I did notice one poster sells a set made in Italy, but for $120.
Are they really? or Chicom made one`s, and boxed up in Italy?

Goat