C6 Detent Question

[divemaster5734]

I installed a C6 that I rebuilt via U Tube University, and didn't have park.
Took a picture of the NSS, which shows the selector pointing at the middle sharpie mark.

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The mark on the left is Park, middle is Rev, and left is Neutral as determined with a meter.
With the gear selector in Park the transmission was actually in reverse.

I thought it was something I screwed up in the valve body when installing a stage 1 shift kit for diesel engines.
Got the pan and valve body off expecting to have full range on the detent, but that was not the case.
I notice the detent was not on the last notch and tried to adjust the position.

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It's hard to see, but the detent is on the 2nd to last notch.
Was able to get a 22mm box end around the throttle and onto the shifter nut.

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I was able to get the detent and shifter to line up with the NSS positions that count.
Was pretty damn smug about it until I realized I didn't have 1st or 2nd range on the detent operation anymore.
Going back and forth in the settings I thought I found a happy middle ground that only excluded 1st gear, and then realized I had no idea how tight the park rod fits into the back of the case to activate the pawl.

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The cone isn't tight into the pawl spring.
Before dropping the pan I did start the engine, allowed ATF to circulate for a few minutes, then gave it some throttle.
It should be noted that in order to start the engine I had to pull the NSS and set it to park laying on the floor as I couldn't hit the P position on the NSS, not realizing the NSS was accurate no matter how far out of adjustment the linkage was.
When it started to reverse with throttle when the selector was in park I stopped, the moved one notch, got neutral, and another notch got it to drive, and I moved it back the 6" and shut it down.
My questions- is there a minimum pressure required for the park rod to the pawl for park to work?
And- If I set it up without 1st gear available on the gear selector will it have any effect other than not being able to select 1st gear if desired?
The transmission is still installed, and I'm hoping to make whatever adjustments are necessary without having to pull it, as I've already installed the driveshaft's with new u joints and greased.
I've spent a few hours searching the web and haven't found anything on this adjustment.
Thanks

 

[XOLATEM]

I am wondering why the neutral switch is not bolted to the case..?

Something is not quite right...and I would like to help you...but I can't get past that...and the fact that I have to turn my monitor 090* to see what the heck is going on...

One other thing...the detent spring bolted to the case...for the rooster comb...is it straight...or did it somehow get a curve in it..?

On the park thing...the rod and/or the bulge in the rod needs to be spring loaded...so when some operator want to prove a point by tossing it up into park while moving...it will only ratchet until you are stopped...or close to stopping...

One other thing...and it may or may not be related...I am itching to put my finger on your band strut...and check the clearance...

I gotta get to work...

 

[divemaster5734]

Heh, I tried to limit the post by not listing every detail, of course the first person to read it is a eagle eyed mechanic.
I had started to pull the band anchor to get better access to the detent nut but then tried a different angle of attack.
I planned on a ban re torque once the link timing was done.
I pulled the NSS bolts as it was easier to reposition the switch as necessary.
The detent spring has a wide base that then tapers down to the roller. It's pretty hard to see sitting so deep below the detent.
I wasn't sure about the park operation. Yes, I took everything apart, and reassembled, but could tell there was something missing for park, and was pretty sure it was hydraulic pressure that was needed.
Thanks.
After posting it occurred to me that if all the moving parts are indeed mostly synchronized, or close enough to within a mm or two, then I can expect the park rod cone to go where it's supposed to go when the detent is put into park. In reality the only manual synchronization is the NSS to P, R, and N.
If that's true then I should just be able to count the notches to locate neutral, time everything to that, and once it's all put together then park should take care of itself.
By using neutral there won't be any pressure on the pawl or spring which complicates the heck out of trying to hold in place and bolt down.
Once weather permits I'm heading back out to test the theory.

 

[XOLATEM]

On your second picture...I am not liking the amount of gap you have from the rooster comb to the case...best I can remember...it should be closer to the case to keep the detent peaks and valleys centered on the detent spring roller.

Are you certain that you indexed the rooster comb to the lever shaft..?

It can go one of two ways...with the outside lever pointed the 'right' way...and it can also go with the lever pointed 180* off....and that usually results in some crazy direction that would not allow the other linkage to connect...

It has a semi-round area with two opposing flats to line up the rooster comb...

To get it put together right you have to place the notched portion on the detent spring and push slightly while lining up the lever shaft. position the rooster comb on the lever shaft and hold it in place while you thread on the nut...

Once you snug and tighten the nut...(not TOO much...you can break the lever shaft and then have some fun trying to find another one...)...you should not have any problem rotating the lever all through the ranges...

Forget about any idea of making do or deleting any ranges...it will just not end well...just take it all back apart...look at it real good....see w.t.heck I am talking about...and put it back together in the manner I just described..

When you go to put the valvebody on...make dog gone sure you have the manual valve lined up with the lever properly and then get the kickdown lever positioned so you can feel spring tension when you work the outside lever up and down...(did you put the o-ring inside the lever shaft that seals the kickdown lever from leaking..?)

Run all of the valvebody-to-case bolts in loose because usually two of them are going to fit snug to keep the valvebody indexed to the case so the manual valve will be in the right spot...once it is seated and all are snug...I used to torque them with an inch-pound torque wrench...around 100-110 inch pounds...after lubing them all with ATF.

If the pawl and spring and retaining plate are in correctly then you should get park when you lift up on the outside lever. (up as in if the unit is sitting normally...not vertically...)you might have to slightly rotate the output shaft to get it to 'click' in...

Do everything else and then it's off to the races...

 

[tbowker]

and the fact that I have to turn my monitor 090* to see what the heck is going on...