7.3idi clutch slave throw distance question

[divemaster5734]

Converting from E4OD to ZF5.
Have everything mounted including the new pedal.
Just used a vacuum bleeder until nothing but fluid came out.
The slave only moved the clutch fork about 1" travel.
Since the entire manual shift on this type of vehicle is new to me as well, I'm not sure if that's enough throw.
Have a South Bay Stage 3 clutch, master, slave, and line are all new.
I fully rebuilt the pedal assembly before installing with new bushings, springs, etc., and lightly greased the shaft's.
I'm amazed at how easy it is to disengage the clutch compared to how insanely difficult it was in the donor before removal.
That said, it had been rusting away in a field for 15 years before I got it.
Before it took extreme leg push to disengage, now I can easily push the pedal to the floor with my hand.
I just want to be sure I'm actually getting enough hydraulic action.
The truck is still a couple weeks from ready for first start.
Thanks

 

[XOLATEM]

Have someone push the pedal to the floor while you are underneath and check for air gap opening up between the clutch disc and the pressure plate and/or the flywheel...

I'd look for something along the lines of .035"-.050"...

 

[divemaster5734]

Have someone push the pedal to the floor while you are underneath and check for air gap opening up between the clutch disc and the pressure plate and/or the flywheel...

I'd look for something along the lines of .035"-.050"...

That's the problem, the repair site is literally in a remote field. I'm solo.
I suppose I can just push the clutch to the floor and block it there, then go underneath.
I'm guessing I'll be able to measure the gap through the inspection cover.
Thanks

 

[XOLATEM]

Pro Wheel Alignment Brake Clutch Accelerator Pedal Depressor Holder Tool USA | eBay

Professional Car & Truck Wheel Alignment Brake Pedal Depressor. A great safety tool while a vehicle is on the alignment rack. This unit is designed to place constant pressure on the brake pedal. The adjustable steel plate will extend the length of the bar. It will fit most passenger cars and...

www.ebay.com

I'm solo.
I suppose I can just push the clutch to the floor and block it there, then go underneath.

 

[Nero]

Just rapidly pump the clutch by foot a bunch, after bleeding it'll prime itself practically past that. Once the engine is running it should be fine. Throw isn't that far.

 

[divemaster5734]

Just rapidly pump the clutch by foot a bunch, after bleeding it'll prime itself practically past that. Once the engine is running it should be fine. Throw isn't that far.

Finally got the engine sorted out well enough to attempt a "self-motivation" test.
The clutch will not engage.
I used a vacuum bleed system to completely empty everything, then put the hopper on the master, and pulled fluid out of the slave until I couldn't see even the tiniest bubbles, then kept going for about 30 seconds just to be sure.
I'm using leftover ZF5 transmission fluid.
The pedal isn't returning to the full out position.
It seems to encounter pressure about where the breakout spring pivots, which is also where it returns to.
Everything is new, master, line, slave, and South Bay stage 3 clutch.
The first thing I did was cut off the bushing and installed the sealed bearing modification.
I put the rod on a vice, and used a portaband to cut the bushing off at the furthest spot of the straight shaft.
I then slid the rod into the bearing until seated, and torqued the set screw.
I didn't measure the distance between the inside of the original bushing and the cut off spot, but I'd say 1/4" is close.
That I believed was made up by the mod, possibly losing at most 1/8".
Could I have set the actuator arm off the pedal too far back from the master calendar?
When installing I seated the piston first, then swung the arm into place.
Is that the correct procedure for setting the pedal?
I'm pretty confident I got all the air out of the system.
All I can think of is it needs better travel?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I'm using leftover ZF5 transmission fluid.

NO! This uses brake fluid, not ATF. ATF may cause issues. I can't say for sure, but it's definitely a possibility. In fact, it may compress too much which would cause there to not be enough travel at the slave. Brake fluid is designed to work under relatively high pressures. ATF may not be.

 

[Nero]

It literally says on the cap, DOT3 fluid. I used DOT4 in my master, but thats cause its what I had laying around.


Change your fluid and re bleed it.

 

[divemaster5734]

Cool.
Am out of town for a few days on biz, will evacuate, re-bleed, then evacuate again to make sure it is all flushed out.
A counter person at oreilly's swore it was good.
Thanks for not laughing..

 

[frankenwrench]

Cool.
Am out of town for a few days on biz, will evacuate, re-bleed, then evacuate again to make sure it is all flushed out.
A counter person at oreilly's swore it was good.
Thanks for not laughing..

The igmos behind the counter will lead you astray moreso than steer you in the right direction. Dot 3 or 4 ONLY. Atf can damage your seals in the master/slave cylinder. Been there myself doing this as it was the only option I had on the side of the road other than 80/90 weight. Either one of them were gonna be a bad outcome honestly. Gimped it home floating gears and tried to flush and bleed system and just blew the seals. Wound up replacing anyways.

 

[divemaster5734]

Ouch.
Of course the assembly for 89’s isn’t offered as a kit.
Had to use two different vendors.