Pre-fuel Filter Required?

MIDNIGHT RIDER said:

AN(Army-Navy - usually Aluminum)
JIC(Joint International Council - almost always Steel)

Both are same 37° taper; and, for all practical purposes, completely interchangeable.

Curious nosy minds need to know; I spy a big TEE and hose-clamps in that big A/C line that goes along the firewall and across the engine; what is going on there ? Possibly a refrigerant line to a remote evaporator ?


That sighting begs the question, as such things go, refrigerant lines are not under anything close to what would be considered high pressure; yet, it has been indoctrinated within us since the beginning of time as we know it that we need some scientific hose-making expert to crimp together these hoses.

I just wonder, if the line fittings had decent barbs or a single hose-nipple barb, if a good double-hose-clamping with quality hose clamps, like those recommended for fuel-injection hose, would not be more than sufficient for clamping the hoses to the hose-ends.

In my experiences with having trusted shops make up A/C hoses, I have had more than a few leak at the crimp after the system is charged; and, to prevent the hassle of losing expensive refrigerant, taking things apart, having the offending hose re-crimped, putting it all back together again and pulling another vacuum, I have on a few occasions put a couple of good hose-clamps over the crimp and managed to stop the leak with no further involvement.

I also have to wonder whether, instead of having a bunch of weird-threaded odd-ball fittings with leaky O-Rings, would not one be better off to put JIC fittings on the ends of lines.

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You get the eagle eye award for the day.
There's a rear inside mounted heat coil located on the passenger side at the Bronco tailgate.
I'm not sure if there's coolant lines running back there yet, as I've been focused on the drive train.
The tailgate is rusted badly, I plan on replacing everything with LMC parts in the not too distant future.
I'm planning on capping off the hoses that run to the back until I gain full access to all the components.
Right now the only way to access is to crawl over the 2nd bench seat.
The front part is a 1989 F350 Lariat 7.3 short box, the back half is a 1989 Bronco.
There's a fan switch and some kind of potentiometer scabbed into the dash.
The Centurion wiring is heinous.
They used crimp splices everywhere, ran 10awg THHN wire in parallel for feeders, and the dash wiring is a complete nightmare.
For now, I'm just focused on making the new 7.3 with rebuilt 088 and Garrett fan blow smoke, the now ZF542 spin the shafts, and soon to be '03 super duty axles push the truck down the street.

That's the truck in my avatar.
I got it in 2009, lifted it and used for about 1 1/2 years, until a very shady mechanic caused an engine fire in 2011.
It sat since then until November '23, when I finally had time to fulfil my promise to repair.

Old Goat said:

divemaster5734, what micron rating filter in the Racor ae you using?

I installed a Racor on the drivers side, and mounted it to where (if you have cruise control)
is mounted. I don`t have cruise. Ford water separator got the deep 6, then attached the new rubber fuel hoses to the Racor. Then fuel line run as usual over to the spin on filter, which
really doesn`t do much, but it is there.
Use a 2 micron rated filter inside it.

Picked up a case of the 2010 filter off e-bay for a good price. (Genuine Racor)
Nice thing about the Racor, if the filter gets plugged, You can remove it, top of the fuel and move on.
I have a manual primer pump to top it off.

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Old Goat said:

Goat

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It came with a 30, but was thinking of going to a 10 when it's time to change.
Am wiring a ignition relay bypass for the holly and the heater in the racor, with a fuel pressure gauge on the pillar stack, just to verify everything on cold mornings before starting.
Only installed the stage 1 heater at the top of the unit, but there's an additional one made for the bottom.
I use 10 micron filter on all the bikes, and they do a good job without getting plugged up.
I also like the easy access to the filter, and the water in fuel sight glass.
Just didn't realize I couldn't mount it on the frame rail until it was too late.

divemaster5734 said:

The front part is a 1989 F350 Lariat 7.3 short box, the back half is a 1989 Bronco.

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That just begs for a double-Vista-Cruiser roof.

A Vista Cruiser over the driver seat and a second step up Vista Cruiser over the second door.

Back in the 1980s/90s, some old rodeo rider friends of mine made a name for themselves putting Vista Cruiser roofs on 4-door Chevrolet Duallies.

They even went so far as to swap out the Chevrolet engines for the Oldsmobile engines.

They had a long waiting list for their conversions.

I have always intended to do a Vista Cruiser roof conversion on my truck and will as soon as I also come up with the Aerodyne sleeper that I want.

My current sleeper is a Double Eagle flat-top.

When I do all this, I am mounting the cab and sleeper on a rigid sub-frame so there is no flex between the two and let the air-bags between the sub-frame and truck frame take up the slack.

I was poking round in E-Bay searching for the Racor 2 micron 2010 SM-OR filters.
prices are all over the place, some made in China, India. India guy wanted $63 for one.
Yikes highway robbery.
Found a guy with 5 for $49.99 free ship. with tax came to $53.54. That`s $10.71 each. killer price. And these are the Parker original Filters.
2010PM is 30 Micron
2010TM is 10 Micron
2010SM is 2 Micron

These Racor`s are used in the boating world a lot.


Be careful, E-bay is loaded with China made filter`s etc....

Interesting story, I run the smaller version, 200FG Racor on my 82 Datsun KC Diesel,
and one on my 82 Mercedes 240D Diesel.
We were headed up Hwy 50 from Sacramento towards Lake Tahoe. This road goes up to 7500FT at the Summit.
We were at Twin Bridges where Cal-Trans has their Chain Control in the winter going east.
We were in the 240 and suddenly felt the engine start to lose power, kind of a shudder.
Knew what it was, pulled over, opened the Hood, took off the top of the Racor, and the paper filter was black with the sides sucked it.
Well Dumarse here neglected to change the dang thing, and at 22K miles will shut you down....
Pulled the filter off, threw it in a paper coffee cup, pumped the manual fuel pump to top off the Racor, installed the top and off we went.
It does have the spin-on filter like our 6.9/7.3 have.
Got back home and picked up a couple at West-Marine.
I usually change it between 10 and 15K miles.




Goat

MIDNIGHT RIDER said:

That just begs for a double-Vista-Cruiser roof.

A Vista Cruiser over the driver seat and a second step up Vista Cruiser over the second door.

Back in the 1980s/90s, some old rodeo rider friends of mine made a name for themselves putting Vista Cruiser roofs on 4-door Chevrolet Duallies.

They even went so far as to swap out the Chevrolet engines for the Oldsmobile engines.

They had a long waiting list for their conversions.

I have always intended to do a Vista Cruiser roof conversion on my truck and will as soon as I also come up with the Aerodyne sleeper that I want.

My current sleeper is a Double Eagle flat-top.

When I do all this, I am mounting the cab and sleeper on a rigid sub-frame so there is no flex between the two and let the air-bags between the sub-frame and truck frame take up the slack.

Click to expand...

Learn something new every day.. never knew what those were called.
I still have absolutely no clue how the interior will end up.
I'm installing a new carpet kit in the front since I had to swap transmission pans to make it a stick.
Was thinking of a sun roof, have one in my Ram Lariat Longhorn Ecodiesel daily driver, and really enjoy it when it's not too hot.
Dreaming about pulling out the two rear bench seats and installing six captain chairs with full multimedia, tucking a refer and fold out table somewhere... or installing a SCUBA Cascade tank and making some tank and gear holders, and go explore remote lakes... and there's several other options after those.
Right now the focus is drivetrain, from engine to axles, then see where it goes after that.

Old Goat said:

I was poking round in E-Bay searching for the Racor 2 micron 2010 SM-OR filters.
prices are all over the place, some made in China, India. India guy wanted $63 for one.
Yikes highway robbery.
Found a guy with 5 for $49.99 free ship. with tax came to $53.54. That`s $10.71 each. killer price. And these are the Parker original Filters.
2010PM is 30 Micron
2010TM is 10 Micron
2010SM is 2 Micron

These Racor`s are used in the boating world a lot.


Be careful, E-bay is loaded with China made filter`s etc....

Interesting story, I run the smaller version, 200FG Racor on my 82 Datsun KC Diesel,
and one on my 82 Mercedes 240D Diesel.
We were headed up Hwy 50 from Sacramento towards Lake Tahoe. This road goes up to 7500FT at the Summit.
We were at Twin Bridges where Cal-Trans has their Chain Control in the winter going east.
We were in the 240 and suddenly felt the engine start to lose power, kind of a shudder.
Knew what it was, pulled over, opened the Hood, took off the top of the Racor, and the paper filter was black with the sides sucked it.
Well Dumarse here neglected to change the dang thing, and at 22K miles will shut you down....
Pulled the filter off, threw it in a paper coffee cup, pumped the manual fuel pump to top off the Racor, installed the top and off we went.
It does have the spin-on filter like our 6.9/7.3 have.
Got back home and picked up a couple at West-Marine.
I usually change it between 10 and 15K miles.




Goat

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This is my first diesel build.
To be honest, I didn't know I got a Racor clone at the time, and knowing would have made zero difference as I was completely ignorant of all things diesel then.
I just liked the fact it covered three important features in one, as I was deleting the mechanical fuel pump, and already had plans for the bracket the OEM separator was on.
Now I look back and appreciate the Big Guy looking out for me, as it's a decent quality, it's only missing the brand name.

MIDNIGHT RIDER said:

They even went so far as to swap out the Chevrolet engines for the Oldsmobile engines.

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THAT'S why the olds pattern turbo 400 trans cases supply started drying up....

Ahh-Hah...

divemaster5734 said:

You get the eagle eye award for the day.

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I noticed some fairly decent weld beads...

XOLATEM said:

I noticed some fairly decent weld beads...

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Thanks, spool gun on Miller MIG.

divemaster5734 said:

spool gun on Miller MIG.

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What model Miller Mig..? I have used a few different ones and they never steered me wrong...

Isn't it really satisfying when you put together a good and strong fixture..?

Gets me grinning bigger'n a dog who somehow locked the cat outside...

divemaster5734 said:

Learn something new every day.. never knew what those were called.

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When I hear that, I think of the car that the Foremans drove on "That 70's Show".

XOLATEM said:

What model Miller Mig..? I have used a few different ones and they never steered me wrong...

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I can say that all Millers aren't made the same. At work, we have a 251 and a 252. I always use the 251. It welds better and the other welders before me also felt the same way. I started out on the 252 because I wasn't the full time welder. I did ok at best. When I became the one full time welder, I got to switch to the 251 and became twice the welder in less than 5 minutes. I really try hard not to use the 252 unless I absolutely have to. I still can't weld for crap with that stupid thing.

IDIBRONCO said:

I started out on the 252 because I wasn't the full time welder. I did ok at best. When I became the one full time welder, I got to switch to the 251 and became twice the welder in less than 5 minutes. I really try hard not to use the 252 unless I absolutely have to. I still can't weld for crap with that stupid thing.

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My part time job has 4 252 millers, the only feature that I like on them is the being able to slow the wire speed until it hits ground.

My go to machine is a Miller 250X, it can really **** you off trying to start a bead without either popping or sticking the wire to the tip. When the arc is established it welds far better that the 252 machines.

James

Rdnck84_03 said:

it can really **** you off trying to start a bead without either popping or sticking the wire to the tip.

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Our 251 does the same thing. Years ago, I picked up a 250X that had been in a truck bed when the truck was wrecked. It's not in the greatest shape, but I practically got it for free. Now I see that I need to get more excited about seeing if I can get it working again.

XOLATEM said:

What model Miller Mig..? I have used a few different ones and they never steered me wrong...

Isn't it really satisfying when you put together a good and strong fixture..?

Gets me grinning bigger'n a dog who somehow locked the cat outside...

Click to expand...

Millermatic 212 with a Spoolmate 100 gun.
Picked up a square wave TIG, but haven't had the time to blow up metal with it.
The secret is in the prep for sure, and yeah, when the time comes that all the pieces finally fall in place it's a pretty awesome rush.
In truth, I was hesitant to even post a picture.
That was revision #4, and I just welded through the tack without cleaning the slag first.
That's why it's not shiny, but it'll hold.

We went from fuel filters to welders...but this is a good thing for you guys to chime in on...as much as I love my truck...what I can do with my truck revs me even more...

I have an older (90's) model engine-driven welder on it but I don't get too many opportunities to use it at the moment...so...believe this...I forgot what model it is...a 250-something...(I'll pull the cover off today and check.)

It worked fine the last time I used it and the welds are holding up for the last two years...not pretty, but hold...

The manual on it pointed out that it had a device for fine adjustment...if it was needed...I wonder if it could be possible that the difficulties with the 251 and/or 252's could be related to that..?

I used a 252 at one job...constuction equipment repair...nothing needed to be pretty...just hold...and it seemed to work ok...

I used a 251 at a tractor and equipment dealer...and...as long as you knew which wire was in it...you could figure out how to make it hold and be reasonably professional looking...I had to frequently turn down the gas setting from when other guys would run it wide open...(50PSI).

I used a 210 at a joke of an auto restoration shop and it turned out the prettiest adaptor bracket fix for a jacked-up alternator install that I ever made...I instantly fell in love with that machine...

Right now I am getting some time in with a Hobart plasma cutter and a Miller inverter machine...161 STL...repaired an antique kitchen sink for the house...turned out pretty good...used some salvaged metal from the tractor dealer...as well as built a worktable for future projects...

I really didn't figure that there would be much difference between a 251 and a 252...but you guys seem to have a lot of experience with them...I'll take your word for it...

Thanks for the feedback....Gentlemen...

Wishing you all a good Tuesday...get 'er dun...