Pre-fuel Filter Required?

Set a Holly Red on the frame rail just in front of the tank selector switch.
Put a check valve in front of the pump.
Thought it was a pimp set, and then realized I set the fancy Racor filter up in the engine compartment for easier servicing.
That's great, but then there's nothing to filter before the holly pump or check valve.
I didn't leave much room for an inline pre-filter, but will move the pump up the rail if needs be.
Looking for thoughts and inline filter suggestions.
Thanks

Baldwin BF1173

This is what we always use at work if there is an in-line filter on a piece of diesel powered equipment.

We use them on our feed bunk paver, for example.

We used to have a trencher that had one too

I think pretty much everything else at my work just has either a spin filter or a cartridge.

I ran two, one from each tank, when I replaced the FSV. They were placed between the tanks and the FSV. FSV warranty called for that. So the Holley red didn't need a pre-filter.

Cubey said:

I ran two, one from each tank, when I replaced the FSV. They were placed between the tanks and the FSV. FSV warranty called for that. So the Holley red didn't need a pre-filter.

Click to expand...

I'm concerned for a couple reasons.
The truck has sat rusting away for the last 13 years.
During that time there were at least two different theft attempts, someone tried to steal the front wheels and tires, and another time someone opened a door and tripped the security lighting and ran.
I've come home from work and the filler cap has been open.
I installed an anti-siphon spring years ago that obviously stopped them from getting the fuel.
I suppose if I was going to be as detailed as possible I could hook up a pump to the tank line and pump the fuel that's in the tank out, filter, and replace, but the stock tank is close to full.
Writing this down kinda makes it clear I'm going to have to do something to clean out any debris that could be lurking on the bottom of the tank.
As soon as this phase is complete I'm driving it 1500 miles over several mountain passes, including the continental divide while towing a 20' MC race trailer.
Would really hate to be in the middle of some grade and loose fuel flow.
Damn.

Cubey said:

I ran two, one from each tank, when I replaced the FSV. They were placed between the tanks and the FSV. FSV warranty called for that. So the Holley red didn't need a pre-filter.

Click to expand...

That’s a good idea

I had bought a facet fuel pump which comes with its own fuel filter, then I figured it out it did not deliver enough fuel. Then I bought a holley and just left the facet
In line for my filter for the holley. And that way I have a spare fuel pump, in case something goes wrong with the holley, I could at least limp home.

KansasIDI said:

That’s a good idea

Click to expand...

I had 5/16" barb ones ($4 AutoZone ones I thought there 3/8") but they worked fine with 3/8" hose without leaking, and didn't seem to hurt fuel flow with the 085 turbo on the motorhome.

Cubey said:

You must be registered for see images attach

Click to expand...

That is a good set-up and will do the job.

What I would change to make life much easier when a filter does clog and needs roadside replacement:

Do whatever it takes to add JIC Male Adapters to the permanent fuel lines and to the inlet ends of the fuel selector valve.

Also, install ball cut-off valves in three places; one in each line ahead of the filters and one on the line from selector valve to engine.

You can install the cut-off valves onto the permanent fuel lines and then screw your JIC Male Adapters into these.

In the ends of the rubber hoses on the filters, install JIC Female Swivels.

Make up a spare set of filters with identical hoses and JIC Female Swivels to keep as emergency spares.

To keep varmints and such out of your spare filters, put JIC Plugs in the Female Swivels, finger tight.

Now, when a filter plugs and shuts you down, crawl under there with your open-end 5/8 and 11/16 wrenches, close all three cut-off valves, loosen and remove the JIC Swivels, and install your pre-made filter/JIC assembly; open the valves and you are done.

Were it mine, I would also route the lines such that I could stand on my hind legs out in the day-light to access the filters.

Once you experience all the advantages to JIC, you will find all sorts of places where it can make your life better.

There was almost no room to do more than you see in the picture, without cutting up the original hard lines. and that was even on a 176" WB chassis. There was a flexible guard just ahead of the fuel pump, I'm guessing to protect the front fuel tank? You can see a bit of it in the bottom right corner of the photo.

It wouldn't be big deal to just replace the filter as I put it, especially on that motorhome.There was tons of room to move around under there.

MIDNIGHT RIDER said:

That is a good set-up and will do the job.

What I would change to make life much easier when a filter does clog and needs roadside replacement:

Do whatever it takes to add JIC Male Adapters to the permanent fuel lines and to the inlet ends of the fuel selector valve.

Also, install ball cut-off valves in three places; one in each line ahead of the filters and one on the line from selector valve to engine.

You can install the cut-off valves onto the permanent fuel lines and then screw your JIC Male Adapters into these.

In the ends of the rubber hoses on the filters, install JIC Female Swivels.

Make up a spare set of filters with identical hoses and JIC Female Swivels to keep as emergency spares.

To keep varmints and such out of your spare filters, put JIC Plugs in the Female Swivels, finger tight.

Now, when a filter plugs and shuts you down, crawl under there with your open-end 5/8 and 11/16 wrenches, close all three cut-off valves, loosen and remove the JIC Swivels, and install your pre-made filter/JIC assembly; open the valves and you are done.

Were it mine, I would also route the lines such that I could stand on my hind legs out in the day-light to access the filters.

Once you experience all the advantages to JIC, you will find all sorts of places where it can make your life better.

Click to expand...

I installed a Racor 500 clone in the engine compartment.
Had to fabricate a bracket in place of the OEM jack, as that is now useless with the lift kit and tires.
The Racor has a filter that replaces at the top, a thematically operated heater in the middle, and water separator at the bottom.
I ran all AN6 lines from the holly pump output, and put a deadhead regulator and gauge between the racor and IP.

Due to installing a turbo I deleted the CDR, and then flipped the valve covered to opposite sides, then installed a catch can on the old separator bracket, which will then run to the air intake to allow for a slight vacuum the help clear out the crank.
I like the AN fittings also, once you figure out the secret to making them up, they're worth the effort.

divemaster5734 said:

You must be registered for see images attach

I like the AN fittings also, once you figure out the secret to making them up, they're worth the effort.

Click to expand...

AN(Army-Navy - usually Aluminum)
JIC(Joint International Council - almost always Steel)

Both are same 37° taper; and, for all practical purposes, completely interchangeable.

Curious nosy minds need to know; I spy a big TEE and hose-clamps in that big A/C line that goes along the firewall and across the engine; what is going on there ? Possibly a refrigerant line to a remote evaporator ?


That sighting begs the question, as such things go, refrigerant lines are not under anything close to what would be considered high pressure; yet, it has been indoctrinated within us since the beginning of time as we know it that we need some scientific hose-making expert to crimp together these hoses.

I just wonder, if the line fittings had decent barbs or a single hose-nipple barb, if a good double-hose-clamping with quality hose clamps, like those recommended for fuel-injection hose, would not be more than sufficient for clamping the hoses to the hose-ends.

In my experiences with having trusted shops make up A/C hoses, I have had more than a few leak at the crimp after the system is charged; and, to prevent the hassle of losing expensive refrigerant, taking things apart, having the offending hose re-crimped, putting it all back together again and pulling another vacuum, I have on a few occasions put a couple of good hose-clamps over the crimp and managed to stop the leak with no further involvement.

I also have to wonder whether, instead of having a bunch of weird-threaded odd-ball fittings with leaky O-Rings, would not one be better off to put JIC fittings on the ends of lines.

I myself have a wix 33972/ napa 3972, it's clear plastic, diesel rated, and has a 50 micron rating.. has kept all the crap out of my pump and filters thus far..

Only downside is it's 5/16 barb, and I use 3/8 hose.. me being me, I just tighten the clamp some more and it's fine, but I'm sure they make a 3/8 version, just haven't had issues.. I use this one on my powerstroke as well..

Ruffnek7tree said:

I myself have a wix 33972/ napa 3972, it's clear plastic, diesel rated, and has a 50 micron rating.. has kept all the crap out of my pump and filters thus far..

Only downside is it's 5/16 barb, and I use 3/8 hose.. me being me, I just tighten the clamp some more and it's fine, but I'm sure they make a 3/8 version, just haven't had issues.. I use this one on my powerstroke as well..

Click to expand...

Clear for the win! I like your thinking.

I still have the stock FSV and no pre-filters. PSA: if your FSV works at all but gets stuck or you think it might get stuck, switch tanks over and over and over for a few minutes and it will self-lubricate and get back to working. I've done it a few times and now just flip the switch a few times when driving so it doesn't dry up or whatever makes it fail. I found that out by pulling it and investigating on a bench after it stuck closed. Worked itself loose and I re-installed it. Been good for at least 5 more years now!

Most good fuel pumps don't call for a pre-filter but that doesn't mean it's not a good idea. What does the Holley literature say? I like the clear filter above but would rather have a screw-off type if possible, were I to run them. I guess it's not a big deal with clean tanks and clean fuel.

Ruffnek7tree said:

I myself have a wix 33972/ napa 3972, it's clear plastic, diesel rated, and has a 50 micron rating.. has kept all the crap out of my pump and filters thus far..

Only downside is it's 5/16 barb, and I use 3/8 hose.. me being me, I just tighten the clamp some more and it's fine, but I'm sure they make a 3/8 version, just haven't had issues.. I use this one on my powerstroke as well..

Click to expand...

Swap meets often have vendors with the plastic inline filters by the barrel-full; 50-cents apiece or $5 for a dozen; we always lay in a big supply.

Quite often, I find them with stepped dual-fit ends; 5/16 and 3/8 (or 1/4 and 5/16 for the small engines, lawn mowers and such).

Although a dual-fit stepped filter is handy for obvious reasons, it is restricting flow somewhat to have a 5/16 neck in 3/8 hose.

Years ago, I had an annoying shut-down in the middle of the busiest intersection in town; and, after a big tri-axle milk truck log-chaining me home, I almost never found the problem.

My 6BT Cummins has a mechanical Piston Lift Pump.

Unbeknownst to me at the time, but now ingrained within my skull forever, hidden behind the fuel inlet fittings, is a screen; you have to remove whatever hose/line fitting and unscrew another fitting behind it to even know this screen is in there; lodged on this screen was a big *** of fuel Algae.

First, I put one of those clear plastic filters down there next to the lift-pump, between the line running inside the frame and the lift-pump.

So located, that filter did it's job and did it well; so well, in fact, that one Saturday night in Raywick, Kentucky, in the heart of Corn-Bread Mafia territory, it shut me down while climbing a steep grade.

I managed to land in the wide drive going into a dairy parlor.

In my Sunday-go-to-meetin' clothes, which served double-duty as my Saturday Night clothes, I laid flat on my back with fuel dribbling on me while I loosened hose-clamps and tried to switch out the filters without getting drenched; while, all the while, two very concerned and not-so-friendly dogs didn't even offer to hold the flashlight.

The next day, I added longer fuel lines and looped them up beside the brake booster, putting my pre-filter up there where I could stand on my hind legs and swap them out.

Since then, I have added a GoldenRod at the main big tank and I haven't had a filter issue since.

I am currently in the middle of adding GoldenRods at the two factory-issue tanks as well; such that, like the big tank, the fuel comes out of the tank and goes straight into a GoldenRod.

divemaster5734, what micron rating filter in the Racor ae you using?

I installed a Racor on the drivers side, and mounted it to where (if you have cruise control)
is mounted. I don`t have cruise. Ford water separator got the deep 6, then attached the new rubber fuel hoses to the Racor. Then fuel line run as usual over to the spin on filter, which
really doesn`t do much, but it is there.
Use a 2 micron rated filter inside it.

Picked up a case of the 2010 filter off e-bay for a good price. (Genuine Racor)
Nice thing about the Racor, if the filter gets plugged, You can remove it, top of the fuel and move on.
I have a manual primer pump to top it off.

Goat