Project Thread: 1986 F250 “Farm Truck #1” Build Thread

Nero said:

Not sure, when I installed mine, I just sent it. Left all lines loose at the injectors, cranked until fuel squirted out of each one.
I also had the throttle linkage disconnected and the return spring off, so I just moved the throttle to wide open, and fuel came out easy.
What position is the throttle arm at when you are trying to prime it?

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Longer cranking intervals are the answer here. I’ve Gone up to 10-20 seconds of cranking with a long break in between and some injectors are starting to get fuel now

It can take a while to prime a "dry" IP for sure. And it won't be sending anything to the injectors until it's full of fuel, and unfortunately they aren't designed to allow the inlet pressure to run through the IP to get it purged of air in the first place. Then on top of that, if the IP is full and primed the lines take their own time to purge... it's not quite as easy as the fancy electromechanical injectors on everything nowadays.

For those of us with manual transmissions...we can just push it down a hill and dump the clutch in 3rd gear. Cuts out about 30 minutes of goofing around.

Got it running on 7 cylinders, long enough to hear it run for a minute. While running, I found the loose injector line that was causing a miss and tightened it up.

Air intrusion made starting the truck back up real hard and it wouldn’t start despite catching a few times. None of my return is hooked up, not even going from the filter to injector #2

The motor bay is a lot prettier with the R&D pump and fuel rails I tell you what. I’m looking for other ways to get it cleaned up and presentable.

Murphy21 said:

anybody know where i can get some first gen banks parts for a manaul turbo kit? need the pedastool and the y pipes thanks.

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I see complete kits popping up on FB marketplace and eBay from time to time.

1986 F250 with 89 van 7.3 swapped in. I have confusion about the fuel return system - I thought I understood it.

Running R&D fuel rails, R&D 80cc pump. I need help figuring out the best way to run the return lines. Here’s what I currently have.



My reason for asking is that I have confusion about the fuel return system. When I ran my engine without the fuel return system hooked up, I *did not* observe fuel coming out of either fuel rails when the motor was running. The FSM says that I should have. Very confused about that.


Heres what the FSM has for stock routing.


What I noticed is that the VAN’s filter head will push fuel to the driver side injector bank, and I now see fuel coming out of the driver side fuel rail but still not the passenger side which is not at all plumbed yet.


Based on what I’ve observed, It seems like it may be beneficial to push the fuel through the front of the injector banks and allow them to vent/bleed/push the rest of the fuel into a rear collector that then goes to the tank.


Current incomplete plumbing

Here is the most honest answer to that question.

As long as all 8 return to the tank, it really doesn’t matter how the lines are routed.

Ive seen them have all 4 on one side connected together, and then tee in at the back and go to the tank,

I’ve seen a crossover in front of the intake hole in the manifold.

I’ve seen them cross at the front by the IP… so passenger 4 come to the front, cross over and then join the 4 on the driver and go the the tank.

As long as they are connected, and the hose is “safe” from harm, it doesn’t matter, as long as it is a restriction free as possible…

So the me the best way, is what works best in your particular situation….

snicklas said:

Here is the most honest answer to that question.

As long as all 8 return to the tank, it really doesn’t matter how the lines are routed.

Ive seen them have all 4 on one side connected together, and then tee in at the back and go to the tank,

I’ve seen a crossover in front of the intake hole in the manifold.

I’ve seen them cross at the front by the IP… so passenger 4 come to the front, cross over and then join the 4 on the driver and go the the tank.

As long as they are connected, and the hose is “safe” from harm, it doesn’t matter, as long as it is a restriction free as possible…

So the me the best way, is what works best in your particular situation….

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Thanks for the quick response - Routing paths are flexible. The filter head line must be hooked up to one of the fuel rail banks

I’m Still wondering why I did not see any fuel coming out of the fuel rail

I would get some line clamps on your injector lines. Individual lines can crack at the injector nut due to vibration. Clamps gang them together.

TahoeTom said:

I would get some line clamps on your injector lines. Individual lines can crack at the injector nut due to vibration. Clamps gang them together.

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Very true, I didn't believe it until I had one crack on me...

TahoeTom said:

I would get some line clamps on your injector lines. Individual lines can crack at the injector nut due to vibration. Clamps gang them together.

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Yep - this is a high priority.

I’ve been looking for just the injector clamps for the Van’s injector lines but not much luck in finding stand alone clamps that are Van specific.

The rub happens when compared to the truck injector lines, I think injector line#4 and one other line differ.

Back when I bought the banks Gen 1 turbo kit for this truck, the guy threw in front end cosmetics and a bunch of other parts that I showed you earlier in the thread. I mounted them this past weekend and I think the truck looks a lot better with them, even if they’re kind of busted.

These are my favorite part of these projects

Alright so here’s the flip side of these parts of the project, lol - the new problem is a show stopper (right now). Electrical woes get all of us at one point or another, and for me that time is now.

The motor won’t turn over. The headlamps don’t turn on. The gauge cluster lights turn on when I open the driver side door. The glowplug light turns on real dim when I open the driver side door. Only the driver side door.

The dome light gets real dim when I turn on the headlamps. You get the idea.

With all of this said, electrical work is foreign to me, but it’s time to learn.

I think I need to do a voltage drop test, and I’ll probably start with the headlights circuit, or the dome lights circuit.

So if I conduct a voltage drop test between the battery’s ground and somewhere through one of these circuits, then no matter where I am in that circuit, I should be using the positive multimeter probe to trace out the circuit up through the fuse box, to positive side of the Load, then immediately the negative side of the load, then possibly to a ground-side switch, then back to the battery.

throughout this process I should gradually see said circuit drop from 12.8ishvolts down to 0 volts the closer I get to the battery negative

And if I don’t get this exact outcome, then that means there is one of a couple of things:

1. An open on the positive side of the circuit
2. An open on the negative side of the circuit
3. An open in the Load (a bulb)
4. A mechanical fault (a seized fuel injector)


Is all of this right?

Source:

From my admittedly limited electrical (non) expertise, when you start getting funny (strange/weird) electrical issues, it's usually a ground problem. The glow plug light going on dimly when you open the door is what I consider to be a funny electrical problem. I would check the see if your grounds are clean and secure, as in not loose. I'd start with the main engine grounds from the batteries and then also check to make sure that the cab grounds are attached to the back of your head(s?). I may be completely wrong, but then again...

I ran across this thread last night, may be of some help to you.
Interesting info anyway.



Goat

Classic - The problem was a bad frame ground. No issues after I cleaned and retightened it.

Learned a lot about electronics in the process to get here, and went so far as to buy a few of the 1986 shop manuals from eBay. I prefer print copies. One of the books had a brochure leaflet in the pages.