There is a block code on top of the block on the drivers side of the injection pump.Thanks guys. I'll be sure to remove those items then before degreasing it. Also, the guy I brought it from kept saying the previous owner said it had a 6.9 in it. As I was removing front end pieces, I noticed what I through were cracks:
You must be registered for see images attach
Upon closer examination, it looks like they cut out that top rail at some point in the past:
You must be registered for see images attach
Quite a hack job. Why someone wouldn't just take a little extra time and remove the entire radiator support I don't get unless someone was in a rush.
I also noticed all the original glow plug wires are no longer being used, but all new ones were run. This was also a hack job.
So this is likely a 6.9 engine after all. Which I guess is the more desirable one from a longevity standpoint as the cylinder walls are thicker?
Is there an easy way to verify this is indeed a 6.9 engine before I start ordering parts and get it cleaned up?
More likely it fatigue-cracked there, and was repaired by welding the cracks. My truck has a more hacked repair by a previous owner, with short pieces of angle iron welded over those areas.removing front end pieces, I noticed what I through were cracks:
You must be registered for see images attach
Upon closer examination, it looks like they cut out that top rail at some point in the past:
You must be registered for see images attach
Quite a hack job. Why someone wouldn't just take a little extra time and remove the entire radiator support I don't get unless someone was in a rush.
Yes I forgot about the head bolt size… 12 point, 1/2” for 7.3, 12 point, 7/16” for 6.9Can you tell by looking at the head bolts? Or do they use the same head on the larger 7.3 bolts?
Those core supports breaking is very common.
James
There is a block code on top of the block on the drivers side of the injection pump.
Nope. Those are cracks.Upon closer examination, it looks like they cut out that top rail at some point in the past:
He already found out but it always starts with 6.9 or 7.3 unless someone ground the original one off.There is a block code on top of the block on the drivers side of the injection pump.
Wasn't the stock adapter on #2 for vans? Maybe the lines came off something else at some point.Another thing is that your timing adapter is on #2 cylinder instead of #1 like it should be. As for the return caps, you can probably buy some new dead end caps.