Tires... Tires.... Tires....

Nero

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I definitely appreciate the insight. Wheels and tires are definitely something I should know more about, most I do with them is put them on, most of my tire changes are on semis and busees.

I do have a set of rims at home. Had my old man measure them, they're 7" from bead to bead. I always referred to them as 'boat rims' because they look like they belong on a boat trailer.

Looks like I might be using those.

Not mine, but a photo of what they look like
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u2slow

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Be sure you are measuring correctly - inside the flanges.
 

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Nero

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Thats what he said he did, I'll double check it when I get home.
These rims came with an f350 I bought years ago to part my truck together, they've been just collecting dust since then.
 

u2slow

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Check for a weight-rating stamp too. They look better painted black IMHO.

I trust the Accuride wheels to more weight than they are rated (3045#).
 

Nero

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Well got home, cleaned the rims up. So far only one has any type of info on them.
Can anyone shed some light on what they're rated at? Two rims have tires mounted that are rated 3415lbs so thats promising...

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Edit;

Looks like I found it, apparently CT&W rebranded to Carlisle, rim is rated to 3200lbs...

 
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Nero

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Digging around some more, it looks like to get a higher rated rim, I would have to go with a trailer rim. Found a 16x7 8-165.10. What is the difference between a truck rim and a trailer rim? Can it be done? Should it be done?

Edit, friend of mine who runs a tire shop said don't use trailer rims on driven axles, not rated for safety and such.

Back to the grind of finding a suitable rim, or a drw axle...
 
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MIDNIGHT RIDER

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Digging around some more, it looks like to get a higher rated rim, I would have to go with a trailer rim. Found a 16x7 8-165.10. What is the difference between a truck rim and a trailer rim? Can it be done? Should it be done?

Edit, friend of mine who runs a tire shop said don't use trailer rims on driven axles, not rated for safety and such.

Back to the grind of finding a suitable rim, or a drw axle...


Below, I am talking trucks/trailers with 16-inch wheels --- just to be clear.

I have made most of my living pulling big cattle trailers, horse trailers, and long flatbeds and I have NEVER seen any trailer with a wheel more than six-inches wide unless some knot-head put them on there.

A seven inch wheel looks plumb goofy on any trailer as it puts the sidewall out past the edge of the trailer fender or flat.

What you have is a common as dirt "Wagon Spoke" wheel made by a gazillion different companies for use on SRW 3/4-ton trucks.

The examples you have are stouter than most due to the way the center has a rolled edge and is pressed into the rim and they look fairly thick.

In use, no matter what any numbers may say, they are probably stouter than the Accuride wheel, which is fairly stout.

The stoutest of the stout O.E.M. wheels were the earlier Ford Firestone wheels, 16x6; one of those will outweigh an Accuride by a bunch; we are always keeping our eyes peeled and grab any we find as they will outlast anything else in heavy hauling using 8-on-6-1/2 wheels/axles.

As for your question "What is the difference between a truck and a trailer rim" --- the answer: nothing; many trailers have the same wheels found on many trucks.

If there were an actual difference between truck and trailer wheels, I would say a set of wheels for an 8,000-lb Dexter would be a lot stouter than a set specifically for an F-250; but then, you can also get an 8-lug 5,200-lb axle and it will have the exact same 8-lug wheels as the 8K axle and probably no different than what you will see on many trucks.

My own honest opinion and exactly what I would do were it mine = the first thing I would do is stay as far away from any steel-belted radial tire as I could.

Those paper-thin flimsy sidewalls are where most of your squirming around is coming from.

Yes, I know; there are millions of naysayers who would like to cram their radial tire knowledge down my throat; but, I know for actual fact what will and will not work and my personal F-350 has not had a steel-belted radial on it in over twenty years and it will out-ride and out-drive any radial equipped truck on the road.

Put you a set of BIAS-PLY tires on there and see for yourself that I am right.

DeeStone, for one, makes several tread designs and many ply ratings plumb up to 16-ply/LR-H in good old 7.50-16 BIAS

The day I got rid of the radials was the day my truck started driving like a truck should.

Aired up and side-by-side, a 7.50-16 BIAS is almost exactly the same height as a 235-85R-16; radial or bias, heights will differ between tire brands, actually quite a lot.
 

Nero

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I'm open to running a bias ply tire. Frankly I think I'm stressing myself out trying to find a good tire/rim combination. I just want to use something I can safely drive my camper around with, whether I get the proper rim/tire or get a drw axle.

I found a drw axle with same gear ratio in Kent, WA guy wants $1300 for a drop in ready to go axle.

Or I could get a set of 19.5 rims with rubber and spend $2000

I really have no idea what to do.
 

u2slow

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3200# rated wheel is fine IMHO. It's the heavy version. I have seen aftermarket 8lug wheels with something like 2600#, which is what to avoid.

Now got find the 265 or 285 load E rubber.
 

Nero

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3200# rated wheel is fine IMHO. It's the heavy version. I have seen aftermarket 8lug wheels with something like 2600#, which is what to avoid.

Now got find the 265 or 285 load E rubber.
Someone on the forums here said they might have an Arrowhead dually bolt on kit I could purchase, in your experience what's your thought on doing that versus getting heavier rated 16" rims with 285 load E rubber?
 

u2slow

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I don't like spacers for heavy payload. The load isn't centered on the hub bearings.

I don't care much for duals either. Twice as many tires, and limited size choices. Extra width may or may not be welcome. Also whatever you have to do to make hem fit with a factory pickup box.

Side note: dually may be a deciding factor tolls and ferry fares. I was about to get charged commercial rate for my flatdeck, and then the lady noticed I had singles so it was standard rate.
 

Nero

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OK, so here's what I'm looking at
Vision rim, 16x8, rated at 3650lbs per rim, that will put me right about where I currently am. Has a -6 offset. What offset do I need?

As for rubber, I'm looking at the brand Cooper, two options.
Discoverer AT3
Or
Discoverer ATP
Both are 285/75R16 126 so both rated at 3750lbs. Again, putting me right at my existing weight limit. Unless anyone knows of a 16" tire that can push 4000lbs. Would it be unwise to run 4000lbs per rim on that vision rim?
 

u2slow

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You said you are 1500# over on your current tires. Did you die? 23% stronger tires in a slightly wider profile will be an improvement.

I have wheels similar to what you have linked, with 315/75R16E (3860#). They have not failed on me, but my heavy loading is occasional. -6 Offset sounds reasonable (almost neutral/zero).

Jmho, but if you're buying new wheels, I'd get two 19.5's. Tires are common and not terribly expensive. 245/70R19.5" would be my choice.

 

rreegg

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Im running the discoverer at3 LT on a 235/85R16 and have been happy with them. Only on a SRW F250 though so slightly different application.
 

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