Alright folks, I know there's not a lot out there regarding tearing down the AC compressor. I'm missing a couple pics but if you are handy enough to try this job you'll be able to figure it out.
First off the usual disclaimer, if you break your junk it's not my fault. This is how I did it but this information is free and should be treated as such. You usually get what you pay for
First unbolt the compressor from the truck and get it on your workbench.
There's a nut in the center of the clutch. You'll need to hold the center of the clutch to get it off. I used an oil filter wrench but a strap wrench is probably the best tool. Might be able to hold it with gloves if you're using an impact to get the nut off.
The rest of the clutch is held on by snap rings pull off the first one and half the clutch will come off. Then is the other snap ring. You can barely see it in this picture. I'm sorry, this was before I cleaned it off.
Once that is off you'll need to get the rest of the clutch off. I found a socket that fit on that aluminum stub that's showing but had a hole big enough for the shaft to poke through. Then I set it upside down on the bench and gently tap tap tapped off the clutch with a rubber mallet. I had to reposition it on the socket several times but it eventually came off. MAKE SURE YOU ALTERNATE SIDES! If you don't go around it will just angle and bind.
If you have a large enough gear puller it would make short work if it, just be careful! If you use a gear puller you still want to use the socket. You don't want to press against the shaft, just that round part of the housing AROUND the shaft.
If it's binding you're doing something wrong, this is a slip fit and is only snug because of light corrosion. From what I saw of mine it might slide right off if it was a new one and still clean.
Congratulations, you got the clutch off. Clean the housing off really good and place it in a bucket. It's going to leak a fair amount of oil.
Pull out the 6 bolts holding the case together and you'll be here:
STOP HERE IF YOU ARE ONLY REPLACING THE FRONT SEAL!!!!!
If you are only replacing the front seal skip ahead to removal of the front plate. If you break the seal on any of the other sections you will likely have to replace ALL the seals.
Flip it upside down and oil will start to drain out of the bolt holes. Hold the back plate firmly while lifting slightly and gently tap tap tappy on the lugs on the back plate, alternating sides. You're just tapping to break the seal, be gentle. Once it loosens a little bit you can wiggle it off the rest of the way. Here's what you'll see... Hopefully minus all the rust and corrosion.
This compressor turned out to be in pretty rough shape.
CAUTION! There are two little alignment pins at 10:00 and 4:00 in the picture in the rear plate. Don't lose these! You can pull them out and set them aside now to be safe.
It's possible that the plate shown in the bottom of the picture is stuck to the rear cover. If that's the case you'll have to very gently pry it off. Be careful because you don't want to ding it or scratch it up. I have a screwdriver with a 45 degree bend near the end I was able to get in there and push it up with.
Pull out the o-ring and start cleaning the rear cover up. Might want to let it soak in the parts washer if you have one.
First off the usual disclaimer, if you break your junk it's not my fault. This is how I did it but this information is free and should be treated as such. You usually get what you pay for
First unbolt the compressor from the truck and get it on your workbench.
There's a nut in the center of the clutch. You'll need to hold the center of the clutch to get it off. I used an oil filter wrench but a strap wrench is probably the best tool. Might be able to hold it with gloves if you're using an impact to get the nut off.
The rest of the clutch is held on by snap rings pull off the first one and half the clutch will come off. Then is the other snap ring. You can barely see it in this picture. I'm sorry, this was before I cleaned it off.
You must be registered for see images attach
Once that is off you'll need to get the rest of the clutch off. I found a socket that fit on that aluminum stub that's showing but had a hole big enough for the shaft to poke through. Then I set it upside down on the bench and gently tap tap tapped off the clutch with a rubber mallet. I had to reposition it on the socket several times but it eventually came off. MAKE SURE YOU ALTERNATE SIDES! If you don't go around it will just angle and bind.
If you have a large enough gear puller it would make short work if it, just be careful! If you use a gear puller you still want to use the socket. You don't want to press against the shaft, just that round part of the housing AROUND the shaft.
If it's binding you're doing something wrong, this is a slip fit and is only snug because of light corrosion. From what I saw of mine it might slide right off if it was a new one and still clean.
Congratulations, you got the clutch off. Clean the housing off really good and place it in a bucket. It's going to leak a fair amount of oil.
Pull out the 6 bolts holding the case together and you'll be here:
You must be registered for see images attach
STOP HERE IF YOU ARE ONLY REPLACING THE FRONT SEAL!!!!!
If you are only replacing the front seal skip ahead to removal of the front plate. If you break the seal on any of the other sections you will likely have to replace ALL the seals.
Flip it upside down and oil will start to drain out of the bolt holes. Hold the back plate firmly while lifting slightly and gently tap tap tappy on the lugs on the back plate, alternating sides. You're just tapping to break the seal, be gentle. Once it loosens a little bit you can wiggle it off the rest of the way. Here's what you'll see... Hopefully minus all the rust and corrosion.
This compressor turned out to be in pretty rough shape.
You must be registered for see images attach
CAUTION! There are two little alignment pins at 10:00 and 4:00 in the picture in the rear plate. Don't lose these! You can pull them out and set them aside now to be safe.
It's possible that the plate shown in the bottom of the picture is stuck to the rear cover. If that's the case you'll have to very gently pry it off. Be careful because you don't want to ding it or scratch it up. I have a screwdriver with a 45 degree bend near the end I was able to get in there and push it up with.
Pull out the o-ring and start cleaning the rear cover up. Might want to let it soak in the parts washer if you have one.