New IP

Actually, new everything! I was planning to replace my 120k mile IP with a slightly upgraded one from Classic Diesel due to black smoke, high EGT's, and I was having a hard time getting the timing right and then the truck died, wasn't getting any fuel. So, I took that as my sign to get to work. I bought new everything: 90cc injection pump, lift pump, injectors, return lines, fuel filter, glow plugs, glow plug solenoid. I figured it was easiest to access all that stuff while I had it apart. All back together now and I'm not getting fuel at the injectors. I am getting fuel out of the bleed valve on the filter. Have I missed something? Was it possible to put the pump in wrong? 180 degrees out on the timing or something? Or does it just take longer than I expect to work fuel through the system? I didn't want to keep cranking in case that's ******* the dry injection pump. I guess my next thing is to loosen the fuel supply line at the IP to see if I have fuel there. I can continue on with basic checks, just wanted to check with more experienced people to see if there is something glaring that I may have missed or done wrong. I replaced the IP once before about 12 years ago and don't remember having any problems - but that was a long time ago and my brain is much older now!

Also, I replaced the glow plug solenoid because I was not getting the clicking anymore after the wait to start light goes off. New glow plugs and new solenoid and still no clicking. Light stays on 20-30 seconds, but no clicking after it goes off. Do I need to replace the rest of the GP controller?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Snowturtle said:

180 degrees out on the timing or something? Or does it just take longer than I expect to work fuel through the system?

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It will still run at 180* out. Not well, but it will run. It's probably just not working fuel through the IP yet.

So make sure your fuel shutoff solenoid is energized, then as for getting fuel from the filter head to the injectors with a freshly rebuilt pump you're going to need to crank it a lot. Easily 3-4 reps of 30-40 seconds at a time. Make sure all lines are cracked at least 1/8-1/4 turn loose.

Just make sure to give the starter time to cool down.

Yeah, lots of cranking

Hold the throttle wide open until it begins to cough, then be ready to make some drastic progress followed by happy diesel noises

Great, thanks all! I only have one line cracked, I'll loosen the rest and keep trying. I hadn't thought to double check the shutoff solenoid - it was working before but I never tested it on the new pump.

I like to check the injectors while letting the starter cool off. When all 8 or at least 6 (I can be impatient) have fuel sitting on top of the line nut, I'll tighten them lines all back up and then try to start the engine.

It worked! After cracking all 8 lines and exhibiting a bit more patience, I have happy diesel noises! Now for some more fine tuning. I currently have the timing set at around 7 because I saw a post that recommended retarding a little for altitude (I live at 7000') - does that sound correct? My big disappointment is that I am still rolling coal and have the EGT spike unless I accelerate slowly. I can only go about 40 mph up the pass because I have to back off to keep the EGT below 1100. Should I back off the fuel screw? Change the timing? I had this problem before the old IP went out so I hoped the new one would fix it. Is it worth dropping more money on an intercooler? Do I have to? Can I tune this problem away? I have tons of power, just can't use it because of the EGT.
Thanks for all of the help!

Snowturtle said:

It worked! After cracking all 8 lines and exhibiting a bit more patience, I have happy diesel sounds! Now for some more fine tuning. I currently have the timing set at around 7 because I saw a post that recommended retarding a little for altitude (I live at 7000') - does that sound correct? My big disappointment is that I am still rolling coal and have the EGT spike unless I accelerate slowly. I can only go about 40 mph up the pass because I have to back off to keep the EGT below 1100. Should I back off the fuel screw? Change the timing? I had this problem before the old IP went out so I hoped the new one would fix it. Is it worth dropping more money on an intercooler? Do I have to? Can I tune this problem away? I have tons of power, just can't use it because of the EGT.
Thanks for all of the help!

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Advance to 8.5 and take the fuel down a flat would be my recommendation

Intercooler would be better though, but that does cost quite a bit…



1200 max sustained EGTs… general rule if thumb. Nothing wrong with being cautious though.

At that altitude an intercooler would be your best bet…

What turbo do you have? R&D and CDD also make intercooler systems for their turbo setups, Banks is the only one that doesn’t AFAIK. I’m sure that you could make your own for the Banks kit, several people have.

I was looking at the Classic Diesel Designs intercooler and air filter setup (https://classicdieseldesigns.com/products/cdd-intercooler-kit?_pos=1&_sid=a955e7f27&_ss=r), but I'm open to other suggestions. I have the factory turbo, replaced about a year ago, and a 4" straight exhaust, so it should flow pretty well. I was going to add a muffler, but not til I get my EGT problems under control. I'll try advancing the timing and backing off the fuel. Thanks for the advice!

I bought all my I intercooler pipes and intercooler from ebay, way cheaper, I have a 6.9 so no one has a bolt in system.

I bought the CDD intercooler kit, other than needing to trim the core support it was an almost direct bolt on. Sure I could have fabbed my own with eBay parts, but my fabrication skills are subpar and I was on a time crunch.

Snowturtle said:

Should I back off the fuel screw? Change the timing?

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I would turn down the fuel first. This pump probably wasn't set up with 7000' elevation in mind. Then I would advance the timing if turning down the fuel doesn't work or work as well as you'd like. Personally, I would do one at a time so that you can see what each one does.

Snowturtle said:

Is it worth dropping more money on an intercooler? Do I have to?

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While you don't have to, it's worth it almost every time.

Snowturtle said:

Can I tune this problem away?

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I'm sure that you can.

IDIBRONCO said:

I would turn down the fuel first. This pump probably wasn't set up with 7000' elevation in mind. Then I would advance the timing if turning down the fuel doesn't work or work as well as you'd like. Personally, I would do one at a time so that you can see what each one does.
- Just one flat, one time? Or one flat at a time until I start to notice negative results, then back up one flat?

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IDIBRONCO said:

While you don't have to, it's worth it almost every time.
- I'll start saving up!

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IDIBRONCO said:

I'm sure that you can. -THANKS!

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IDIBRONCO said:

I would turn down the fuel first. This pump probably wasn't set up with 7000' elevation in mind. Then I would advance the timing if turning down the fuel doesn't work or work as well as you'd like. Personally, I would do one at a time so that you can see what each one does.

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Just one flat, one time? Or one at a time and keep going until I notice a difference?

IDIBRONCO said:

While you don't have to, it's worth it almost every time.

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I'll start saving up!

IDIBRONCO said:

I'm sure that you can.

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Thanks!

Snowturtle said:

Just one flat, one time? Or one at a time and keep going until I notice a difference?

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I would go one or two, going one at a time. If that doesn't make much of a difference, then I would try advancing the timing. My thoughts on going that way are that if you go more than two flats, you might not have enough fuel and would end up setting yourself back while still getting too much smoke.