Jack knife cab repair

Brad S.

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Looking at a 97 F250 that has damage to the back of the cab on the pass. side, upper by the back window. They were pulling a camper and jack knifed.
I'm guessing a normal body shop repair would be to cut out that "pillar" and weld in a new one. Can you get a new one from any aftermarket place or would a you have to get one from an salvage cab?
I've looked at LMC but can't find one, thanks guys.
 

tonkadoctor

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This thread is worthless without pics.

NOBODY can advise you on bodywork without seeing the damage. You could be talking about a minor dent that could be pulled to a major cave in that would involve replacing the entire back of the cab, "B" pillars and roof.
 

HuskerCoalRoll

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Hey Brad, Just wanted to let you know that, being a bodyman, yes we can either pull a minor to semi major dent in the right b pillar or if the damage is too extensive the entire cab corner can be replaced. Depending on the amount of damage that was done when the camper jack knifed will determine whether or not it is worth repairing. If you have some pics of the damage it would help, but a fairly detail description would be of use also! If you need some insider advice, pm me and I will do what I can!
 

towcat

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brad-
we're both in the same business so I know you will understand what I am saying.
there's four layers of formed sheetmetal in the "C" pillar and there is no way to section in the outer skin in a reasonable amount of time. I did one once, and won't ever again. replacing the cab is a better and faster solution.
just for reference, I own one of these spotwelders. it produces the same welds as factory.
 

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HuskerCoalRoll

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I totally agree with you Towcat. Those cab corners are a royal pain in the you know where to put in, plus they lip under the roof and unless you hack out the roof seam, you wind up destroying it also! I am not sure, but can salvage yards sell whole cab assemblies anymore? I know there was some legislation that was going through a few years back that would make it illegal to have a SHOP (notice I didn't say individual) install a used cab assembly on a vehicle, but I never heard the outcome. Needless to say, most of the time, if a truck needs an entire cab, put a fork in it, because she's done!

Brad- I noticed that the truck you are looking at has a 460 in it. Any reason you are looking at that one?
 

Brad S.

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Towcat & HuskerCoalRoll
Well, it might be, could be, a pickup for my oldest son about to start driving, the mileage and price kinda caught my eye. I was there this morning and looked at it, one diesel for me and one diesel, that I look after for my folks, are enough for now. I figure the gas would start better in the winter.
What about fixing the broken window in the back, with something other than glass, heavy rubber, plexiglass, etc, sealing it and running it that way. I know the cab structure is weaker like this during a rollover (worst case scenario) but is there anything else.
 

RLDSL

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Towcat & HuskerCoalRoll
Well, it might be, could be, a pickup for my oldest son about to start driving, the mileage and price kinda caught my eye. I was there this morning and looked at it, one diesel for me and one diesel, that I look after for my folks, are enough for now. I figure the gas would start better in the winter.
What about fixing the broken window in the back, with something other than glass, heavy rubber, plexiglass, etc, sealing it and running it that way. I know the cab structure is weaker like this during a rollover (worst case scenario) but is there anything else.

Not sure where folks get the rumor that a gas burner will start better than a diesel in winter. A good gas burner will start better than a tired old diesel with stuck rings in winter, but a nice tight diesel that is well maintained will fire off just fine in temps that can have some gas burners complaining. If diesels were worse at starting in winter than gasburners, then the number one job in northern Europe and Scandinavia would be tow truck driver because over 60% of the new cars sold are diesels there.
Not to mention getting a kid a 460 to drive around in:eek: Does he have an afterschool job as CEO of microsoft to pay for gas for the thing? We're talking an engine that at best gets 6-8mpg with no more than the driver and a fart in the cab. put any weight on and count on 4 -Down
 

HuskerCoalRoll

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As far as replacing either the cab corner glass or the rear window with something else, I would not recommend it. From a safety stand point, glass is actually a structural part in automobile construction, as you said, in a rollover it would be a weak point. Secondly, replacing the glass in our trucks is actually fairly simple. The side windows in the super cab are held in with butyl tape and 9mm nuts on studs embedded in the glass frame. The rear glass is what is actually known as a "rubberset" glass, meaning it has no adhesive that holds it in, simply a rubber gasket that wraps around the glass and then around a pinchweld in the rear of the cab. If you are worried about the cost of the glass, the rear glass is readily available from aftermarket suppliers for less than $100 and the side glass can be found through salvage yards. Try car-part.com to search for the closest or the cheapest.
 

88beast

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ya cut up a scrap cab plus very few have rust there
 

94f450sd

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not an easy fix thats for sure.might be better off walkin away on this one
 

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towcat

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that just shows there's always a reason why the ins. co. will pay out on something like that asap.
bad part for me is I have all the goodies to put another cab on that truck.
only if it was a '94 factory turbo IDI:sly
 

Diesel_brad

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Personally if I was you and trying to keep costs down. Just pull it out the best you can, even knock it out from the inside, even if you have to make access holes. Then bondo it smooth. It wouldnt be right but you can "fix" it for about $25 and a couple hours worth of work.

At least that way you could drive it with out it looking like a pile, untill you find a cab and have the time to swap it
 
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