Seeking Advice/Reviews: TOB Brands

[Kizer]

Good Afternoon,

I'm currently running the TOB from the LUK kit on my 350.

As usual, it's "chirping" at me.

I would not have used it, I was in a bind.

Anyway, the plan was to order the Timken. Now, it looks like the Timken has a plastic sleeve too!

Any advice and / or reviews, regarding the brand of TOB that you're running, will be greatly appreciated.

Kizer

 

[Old Goat]

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[Old Goat]

I replaced my LUK Clutch last Oct, 7 or 8K on by by now
or a bit more. I didn`t use the LUK TO Bearing. Bought
one from O`Really`s, all metal. so far, so good.

I have had them churp and complain before also. Not sure
if there is constant pressure to keep it spinning or not.
But when removing one, it is totally worn out.
Even adjusted the rod under the dash to make sure there
is no pressure on it.

I think one of them was a Timkin bearing, but part was
plastic. Didn`t use it, still have it though.


Goat

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Anyway, the plan was to order the Timken. Now, it looks like the Timken has a plastic sleeve too!

Bought
one from O`Really`s, all metal. so far, so good.

From what I can remember, at least back into the 90's the throw out bearings for the T 19, were all metal. The ones for the ZF5 had plastic sleeves. Honestly, the material that the sleeve is made out of shouldn't matter since all it does is slide back and forth on the input shaft collar. They only do that when the clutch pedal is pushed in. So, unless you're doing a lot of city driving, most of the time, the sleeve doesn't move.

 

[Kizer]

From what I can remember, at least back into the 90's the throw out bearings for the T 19, were all metal. The ones for the ZF5 had plastic sleeves. Honestly, the material that the sleeve is made out of shouldn't matter since all it does is slide back and forth on the input shaft collar. They only do that when the clutch pedal is pushed in. So, unless you're doing a lot of city driving, most of the time, the sleeve doesn't move.

Understood. Thank you. I do a LOT of city driving…with a trailer.

I have zero scientific proof that the plastic sleeve is the problem, it’s just that the all metal TOBs don’t seem to give me the same trouble…I’ve had 3 of these, with plastic sleeves, fail prematurely.

 

[Old Goat]

When Iam at a traffic red light, stopped in heavy stop and go
heavy traffic, I kick it into neutral with Clutch Peddle out.
I almost never sit with peddle pushed in and not moving till
I need to get going.
Takes the wear off the TO Bearing and Clutch Diaphragm Springs.
Usually in slow moving traffic I can push the stick out of gear
w/o the peddle.


Goat

 

[IDIBRONCO]

When Iam at a traffic red light, stopped in heavy stop and go
heavy traffic, I kick it into neutral with Clutch Peddle out.
I almost never sit with peddle pushed in and not moving till
I need to get going.

I do the same thing. I'll go even farther. When I'm on the highway and come up to a stop sign, I'll usually put it into neutral at 20-25 MPH. Then I'll put it back into gear as I come to a complete stop, when I want to start moving again.

 

[XOLATEM]

The first time I did a clutch job on a 60's vehicle and found out that the thrust bearing in the engine was slap wore out I realized that the driver must have been holding the clutch pedal in at the stoplight...that will cause you to never be able to get a good release of the clutch because the geometry is off as well as not being able to hold an adjustment.

Good bye reverse gear...it will grind...

I always wondered how in the heck that engine ran...at all...?

I do a practice similar to the other two guys...@Old Goat and @IDIBRONCO...

Just my .02

I plan on using this one if/when I get a ZF

More Information for SKF N4062

 

[Rdnck84_03]

Hell when I come up to a stop sign at highway speed I throw it in neutral at speed and coast the last 1/4 mile.

Usually only use the clutch for take offs, or the occasional downshifting for a stop sign that is coming up faster than anticipated and I try not to use the brakes until I'm under 10mph.

James

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I plan on using this one if/when I get a ZF

It works for the four speeds as well.

 

[KansasIDI]

I rev match downshift. A lot. Even in town sometimes, unless I’m at low speeds. Then it’s a bit of a toss up as to what I do. Kinda depends.

I have a habit of keeping the clutch pushed in, comes from driving a concrete truck all the time, when the chute guy signals you forward, he means now…

If the light is just turning red, then I usually let the clutch out. And then get ready to go a bit before the light turns green. The way I see it, my truck is slow and pretty much always in the way in a larger town…

The ZF5s and 6s are lubricated by the front shaft, so neutral coasting with clutch in is bad for them. You basically want the input shaft to be spinning in some way, either neutral and clutch out while coasting or in gear and clutch pushed in. If any other part of the transmission is spinning, then you want the input shaft to spin.

Leaving in gear to coast will keep the front shaft spinning at the same speed as the rest of the transmission, whereas in neutral it would be spinning with the engine which might or might not be enough fluid flow to keep the rest of the transmission properly lubricated. The way I see it, the entire clutch system is more a wear item than the transmission. If I need a new clutch every 40k instead of 60k that doesn’t bother me if it keeps the transmission happier.

My truck is heavy and I pull often so I’d be surprised if I get 40k out of that clutch…