@Nero @KansasIDI
Sounds like multiple bad injectors, yikes!
Hopefully that’s it though. If you confirm it is the injectors, I’d be weary about sending them back. I sent mine back to justin and they came back okay, but ended up knocking again not long after.
I really think Russ’s injectors...
Yup, I tried it and can tell you that I had wayyy too much return pressure, literally a geyser of fuel squirting out of return . I tried then running a larger line and tee’ing it into the return along the frame right before fuel tank selector valve to see if that would help…. It didn’t help...
Yup, I tried it and can tell you that I had wayyy too much return pressure, literally a geyser of fuel squirting out of return rails. I tried then running a larger line and tee’ing it into the return along the frame right before fuel tank selector valve to see if that would help…. It didn’t help...
The one thing I liked about CDD was that you’re able to send your pump in and know that you’ll get it back in 10-12 weeks.
I really wanted one of the R&D pumps but anytime he puts them up for sale on his website they sell out in a few hours. And you can’t get on a waitlist or anything.
So far...
AN12 works fine for now since my rings are brand new. I didn’t get total seal but still no blow by for the moment.
AN16 gonna be very tough to fit. Not sure you could do it. I like the hose barb better if you’re gonna go that big.
Plus I think elbow is the way to go. Not sure how you’d make...
Not the NPT. Not sure if you’d ever have the clearance to spin an elbow on if you wanted. I’d vote for #2
Also check your clearance with the 1.5” elbow to the serpentine belt if you have one.
I welded a 12AN bung on the IP cover and the elbow fitting I used came pretty close to the belt
Dang, mystery solved. The tick was just the oil pressure sensor line rattling in the dash this whole time.
I feel dumb LOL
Wasted a lot of time chasing stuff to find this
Last time I talked to him he said the injectors were ‘finicky’… if they all work for you then that’s awesome, hopefully you get it paired with one of his IP’s.
I will say there was noticeably more power with the stage 1 injectors, it definitely could roll some coal too.
But my truck...
I got a set of Russ injectors in the truck today and dang! It is much better. Knock is gone, it doesn’t have that slight hazy white smoke on cold starts anymore, and the exhaust doesn’t stink. See if you can tell which injector was the one that was knocking.
But, that mystery rattle/slight...
My only worry would be that maybe the turbo pedestal would drain oil too fast causing it to leak out of the valley pan.
I have heard of people drilling holes in the bottom part of that drain in the valley pan to help it drain quicker.
R&D stage 1. Heard nothing but good things about them, and he fixed them up right away the first time I had an issue free of charge. They’ve been problem free for several months since, but I don’t feel like bugging him again.
In the end, I don’t know if it’s an issue with the IP that’s causing...
So this quiet, intermittent tick developed into a much more discernible knock accompanied by some white smoke. I was actually able to produce the noise parked in neutral and revving the engine.
Was able to narrow it down to the Cylinder #2 injector by cracking injectors 1 at a time and revving...
Interesting, because the sound goes away when I get to the rpm that the turbo lights off. I wonder what the exhaust pressure is like before that.
Also, I don’t think it’s a lifter issue. I’ve already pulled valve covers and all my lifters are rock solid and rockers are in good shape. Plus I...
So I’ve had this annoying ticking/tapping that happens between 1300-1700 rpm when I’m hitting the throttle pedal.
It’s kind of hard to diagnose though since it really only happens when I’m driving.
But I’m pretty sure it’s injector or pump related since if I take my foot off the pedal it goes...
What did you use to weld to cast aluminum?
Tried welding cast aluminum with ER5356 on my mig and it didn’t work out so great. Though the intake isn’t seeing much stress so it might be fine
Ideally you’d want almost no voltage drop across the contact on the relay, you want it all to drop across the glow plugs in the circuit. But everything has a little resistance and the glow plugs have such little resistance you’ll have a significant amount of voltage drop before you even get to...
Definitely worth while getting new hardware once you get it apart.
I believe it’s M8x1.25
https://a.co/d/62HUwSE
You can get assorted kits of body bolts and u nuts too
You can find aftermarket mounts. I picked some up from autozone a couple months ago and they were fine.
For wiring, I definitely recommend checking out https://www.ididiesel.com/
He should have everything you need, I just bought his glowplug harness for IDIT and it was super good quality...
I used a universal intercooling kit to save some $$$. This is the one I used.
https://www.cxracing.com/intercooler-kit-universal/intercooler-kit-universal-31-12-4-ic-with-piping/IC0023-KIT300-L-J-EB4590
The intake I used a KN filter. I struggled getting that big Donaldson air filter everyone...
Yes, from the top surface of the pan. The pan can fill up with oil easily if your grommet for your turbo pedestal is leaking (if you have a turbo motor). Possibly some from CDR if you have an NA too. And yeah any fuel dribbling out of injector lines and return caps will pool there and drain out...
Now that you mention that, yeah it looks like there is a sleeve already installed there.
Take your time getting it off and be careful. Not sure what the best method is. @IDIBRONCO recommended me to use a chisel to carefully split it. That’s what I did and it worked out for me.
Also make sure...
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