I needed to connect the shift controller to power that's on during start and run. The terminal on the glow plug relay was the easy button.
The bright red wire with the yellow ring terminal is the power for the shift controller.
I needed a solid ground. US Shift recommends running their power...
I ran all the cables except the single green speedo wire through a rubber grommet in a hole I drilled in the firewall(?), high on the passenger side, immediately in front of the removable doghouse cover.
From the engine side:
From the cab:
That connector was indeed C119. It appears to connect engine harness to vehicle harness, in the middle front of the engine.
I unhooked the connector and found that the end connected to the vehicle has continuity to the starter solenoid on the front driver side (R/LB wire). I turned the key to...
Lots of good advice above. Also, check your grounds! Last time I had a "click but no crank," it was a missing ground wire. That was on the Mercedes, which is set up a little differently, but if the engine block isn't thoroughly grounded, these are the symptoms you'll see.
I've only put a few hundred miles on my Walbro, but so far so good. I'm still using the old mechanical pump as a blockoff plate. Guess I should get a couple proper blockoff plates on the way...or just make'em from scrap.
I am really struggling to figure out where to hook up the wires for the neutral safety switch. The EVTM says there is a white/pink wire and a red/light blue wire. The w/pk is coming from the ignition switch to the mlps, the r/lb is running from the mlps to the starter solenoid. According to the...
Oof! $7+ per each for those olives!
KDO58's picture shows the steel return line that the older diesels had. Nero's drawing shows the newer version, which I am switching to.
An electric fuel pump won't fix air intrusion in the return lines, but the pump will re-prime the fuel system while you...
I pulled the instrument cluster off, and found the elusive gray/black wire that carries the PSOM signal to the speedometer. While I had it off, I put 15 green LED bulbs in. It's such a pain getting these instrument clusters out that I don't want to have to do it again for a burned out peanut...
I also took out the doghouse and started looking for the PSOM, or a wire leading from it to the power control module. According to the EVTM the PSOM is behind the instrument cluster, which I have't figured out how to access yet.
I need to attach the new shift controller to the TPS, the PSOM...
Yesterday's project was to replace the ball bearing slides on the battery drawer. That was successful, and the drawer with batteries slides in and out nicely now.
Today's project has been to drop the transmission pan, replace it with an aftermarket pan with a drain plug, put a heater on that...
Jesus Freak, another three grocery runs will bring me to 1,000 miles. I should set the torque wrench to the final value and click it on each of the headbolts?
It must be sucking air, then. The fuel system is all cobbled together at this point, so I guess it's no surprise. It's just...
I've made a couple of grocery runs with the old truck now, 200 mile round trips. It's working pretty well with the Walbro pump. I do occasionally feel a bit of surging. I wonder if the pressure from the pump occasionally surges high enough to advance the timing a bit? The pump is supposed to...
I was up in Fairbanks yesterday, and I saw this in a parking lot. It's a home made rear bumper with a home made swing away spare tire carrier. Looks like two heim joints for the swivel.
A flimsy looking latch on the other side, probably sufficient for the purpose.
Doesn't obstruct the tail...
Yes, CO2 is increasing. It's still near the lower bound of what the geologic record suggests is normal. That's not where we want to be. With the sun and hence the earth showing signs of cooling, we do NOT want to try to reduce the available CO2.
I wonder if you could rig a front bumper mount, like hacked89 has. Dad had that front mount on a '78, and it worked OK. It was a piece of angle behind the bumper running between frame rails, and an L-shaped arm running from that under the bumper then up, and clamped to the bumper. At it's top it...
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