Finally started my ball joint project

Haven't been able to drive my truck in weeks and it's bugging me big time! I started the ball joint job today, but didn't get very far. I ran out of tools
I thought for sure, that I had a socket that would fit the nuts on the ball joint studs, but my old-timer's must have gotten the best of me

I started this thread, so that others may be able to learn. I'm taking pictures during the process, so if there are any picture requests.... Ask away!


Here's what it looks like, with the Allen screws and hub cover removed. I wiped-off some of the grease, to give a better view.


From right to left, here's the order that things came out. Far right in the pic, is the hub cover. Far-left in the pic, is the first spindle nut.


Far-right is the hub and far-left is the outer wheel bearing.


This is the spindle, with the axle shaft sticking out the end.


This is the axle shaft, with the spindle removed. I used a chisel and a BFH on the spindle (After removing the 5 nuts!) The spindle came off in less than 5 minutes.


This is the back of the rotor assembly. It still has the inner wheel bearing in it, as well as the seal. I will be cleaning and re-packing the bearings and replacing the seal.


I'll be updating this thread, as the project continues. I'll document both sides.

I forgot that was a suthern truck, less rust than usual

Check those axle shaft u-joints really carefully for any signs of rough movement/wear. It's way easier to do them now rather than later. DO NOT replace them with pieces that have a grease fitting between the webs. The only ones that are worth having, that are greasable, have a fitting in the end of one cap.

suv7734 said:

Check those axle shaft u-joints really carefully for any signs of rough movement/wear. It's way easier to do them now rather than later. DO NOT replace them with pieces that have a grease fitting between the webs. The only ones that are worth having, that are greasable, have a fitting in the end of one cap.

Click to expand...

Tried replacing this one today. The garage I'm using doesn't have a vice, so I tried doing it there on the floor. Never again! I broke the end out of one of the caps! After I get another new U-joint tomorrow, I'll bring the shaft and tools back to my garage to do the work on my work bench.. The one WITH a vise!

Take your time and give it a thump with a hammer once in a while to get it/keep it moving. Once they pop it's usually OK but it can be a bit of a bear.
Great work so far...

suv7734 said:

Check those axle shaft u-joints really carefully for any signs of rough movement/wear. It's way easier to do them now rather than later. DO NOT replace them with pieces that have a grease fitting between the webs. The only ones that are worth having, that are greasable, have a fitting in the end of one cap.

Click to expand...

may i ask why do you say that just wondering why

my spindals usually get the nut put back on..and a 2x4 and my sledge...put the board on the nut..and giver a wack!!.. top..bottom..side..side..top..takes about a min to getter off...

which is good..cus that hammer is heavy!!

and on the u-joint...dont forget the internal "C" clips near the grease boot on the cross..then get a bigger than the cap socket and hammer on the axleshaft to drive it out...flip..repeat...flip..flip...done..


Balljoints are EASY..kingpins scare me..good thing the heavy truck shop guy did it for $65 in parts and some welding that he needed done..took him all of an hour to do BOTH sides!!

Wanderer-rrorc said:

and on the u-joint...dont forget the internal "C" clips near the grease boot on the cross..then get a bigger than the cap socket and hammer on the axleshaft to drive it out...flip..repeat...flip..flip...done..

Click to expand...

My U-joints have the clips at the end of the caps. Makes it a lot easier to remove them

Wouldn't you want a smaller than the cap socket????

Looks good Gary. Your real lucky that spindle came out that easy. I helped a friend get one out once and we worked on it for a good while. I'm watching your thread with interest, since I'll have to do this to convert the Bronco to the Dana 50 front end I have for it.

EMD_DRIVER said:

My U-joints have the clips at the end of the caps. Makes it a lot easier to remove them

Wouldn't you want a smaller than the cap socket????

Click to expand...

nope..thats how you end up bending the yokes...you want to do it kinda like this...it drives it out..then you dont have to fight it out the other side..and if its good it catches it all intact and you have a good cap with all the needle bearings intact..

EDIT..and obviously if your doing the the other side you hit the opposite shaft..

Those are some great pictures. Clear and easy to see what you are showing us. Give yourself a pat-on-the-back for those great pics...

Nice job with the photos.

Era, so where's the ball joints

Sorry for the delay guys, my son was kind enough to bring some nasty virus home from school and I got it big time! I worked on the truck until 2:30 yesterday and had to come inside and crash. I slept for 19 hours

Anyway, here's my work so far:


Here's the knuckle, with everything out of the way. I removed the tie rod end, since I'm replacing it. The guy at the alignment shop said it was ok, but it had a bit too much play in it, for me. I also got the lower ball joint nut removed and the upper one loosened. It took quite a bit of pounding, to get the joints to come out. I ended up having to use my ball joint separator on the lower joint, to get them to break free. Mel, I never moved the alignment shims. They stayed in-place quite nicely.


With the knuckle on the floor, I pressed out the lower joint. You can see why they tell you to do the lower joint first. It would be kinda hard to get to the upper joint, with the lower one still in the knuckle.


The knuckle, with the offending ball joints removed


Upper joint is now pressed in and I'm getting ready to press the lower one in. These joints came with grease fittings, but came with a warning about clearance with the axle shaft and u-joints. I put the axle shaft back in and checked rough clearance. I have more clearance between the axle shaft and the grease fitting, than I do between the axle shaft and the lower ball joint stud! Notice the orientation of the grease fitting. It's pointing towards the back, so I'll be able to reach it with the grease gun.


Here is the knuckle with both joints pressed in. Both joints were supplied with lock rings, but there was not enough room to get the ring on the upper joint. The one that came out of the top did not have a lock ring on it either.


The knuckle is back in! At this point, I still didn't have my torque wrench. I now have both joints torqued to specs. I had trouble with the nut on the lower stud. It looks like it is some kind of locknut and kept making the stud spin. My solution was to put the jack under the knuckle and put enough pressure on the knuckle, to hold the stud (Without breaking the grease fitting!) It worked like a charm!

I also have the new tie rod end installed, but the nut is not yet torqued. What are they supposed to be torqued to?

I also have to wait for new bearing seals, since the ones I got from NAPA were wrong. I also got a seal puller, but it was too small for these seals. I ended up using a claw hammer to get the old seal out. I'll be taking the bearings to work, so I can clean them out in the parts washer. I'll be re-packing them with synthetic grease.

be very careful when you out it all back together---when i did one once--the grease fitting for the upper ball joint--was a bit toooo long--and the axle knuckle snapped it off!!!!!!!!!!!!!! so check on the clearance as you may need to remove the grease zerk and put the plug in---------------have checked on the ones ive done since--no problem-----